Today I once again confirmed that on highway car can keep 100C, [Da-a new that before!!!]
In slow traffic (city with traffic lights) temperature is jumping around (>100C...)
Interesting fact is that if temp is 110C on traffic light and I put in neutral and send engine to 2500RPM -3000 RPM temperature is rapidly dropping to 100C, if I keep engine at 1200RPM temperature is almost always stays on the same level (with idling speed of 600 RPM after exiting the highway temp is growing).

Since on my way home I have to cross 2 huge bridges (around the mile each one), some more details: bridge on the way up adds the temperature (even though engine is running almost the same RPMs), on the way down reduces the temperature. I think I can understand this fact... but still wanted to share.

Another question.....
I was trying to put everything together in front of me... so I can make some kind of analysis.
Can someone help with temperature measurements?
I have "laser" (IR) temperature measurement tool, however it is useless without knowing the values that are OK for the car.

Can somebody look up the proper (HOT) values for
a) Upper Radiator Hose
b) Radiator (under the main fan)
c) Lower radiator hose
d) Engine Thermostat
e) Water Pump

I will try to get all of my measurements with hot engine and post them here.

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AlexS

I know this is a little far fetched but are you sure that the fan have the correct rotation??

You've already given the approximate temps; you are looking for the temp differentials for a diagnosis. Typically, if the output temp is over 30F different from the input temp, then likely you have a flow problem (water pump, defective stat, etc.) or engine problem (heads, etc.). If temp difference is under 10F, you likely have a cooling problem (radiator, fans, etc.). It's purpose is to guide you in the appropriate direction.

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Don't ask me, I'm a shop-owner by default

Latest Info:
outside temperature 81F-84F (27C-29C), drove car for 30-45 minutes, temperature didn't climb all the way yet, but this is what I have.

Water Pump: 106C
Upper hose: 97C
Lower hose: 65C
Thermostat: 80C

any ideas?

P.S. I looked at the fan clutch that has been replaced 2 weeks ago.
when engine is not running, I can rotate it with my hand (but I do feel some light resistance and can not push the fan so it would rotate by itself). When I stop the engine this fan will stop almost right away, 1-3 rotations max.

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AlexS

First call the National Weather Service, I believe 180F is probably a World Record High Temperture!

Gilly

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Sorry, my, fault, outside temp is in F.. 80F - 27C

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AlexS

You wrote:

"Did a cooling system flush.
After the flush filled it with 1 gallon of MB Original Antifreeze and 1gallon of distilled water."

You may have just typed in the wrong numbers here. On my 1995 E420 (same engine, essentially), the coolant capacity is 16.5 liters. So - that would be about 2gallons on antifreeze and 2 gallons of water to fill the coolant system.

Could you simply have too little coolant in the system? Wouldn't that be a nice easy fix.

Regards,
Troy
1995 E420 83k

Sounds like you have air in the lines. I had this on my 190 and was a ***** to get all out! Need to pinch one line and squeeze another then let off the pinched line! Not sure which in your as I do not know all the hoses on that engine! Also get some Water Wetter!

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~Jamie
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2003 Pewter C230K SC C1, C4, C5, C7, heated seats, CD Changer, and 6 Speed. ContiExtremes on the C7's.

1986 190E 2.3 Black, Auto, Mods to come soon.....

You might have a defective stat (temp differential is too great between upper and lower hoses). According to your readings, the water pump (next to the stat) is running 20C higher than the stat (which is on the lower side of the pump).

Looks like either your stat is defective, or your water pump is bad (although I don't often see one go bad because of flow problems...).

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Don't ask me, I'm a shop-owner by default

Just want to make sure I did measure the temp on the pump and not on something else... Pump temperature was measured on metal part that is directly connected to the upper radiator hose on the engine side (sorry for my stupidity if this is a wrong place)

The stat has been changed twice (8 weeks ago and another time 4 weeks ago). Change of the stat did not fix the problem.
When stat was replaced I looked at it and inside it was saying 80C as opening temp. According to my measurements yesterday, stat was at 80C and was staying at 80C all the time (I did couple of tests)

Can Gilly or BenzRepair confirm the amount of coolant in the system? is 2 gallons OK? (We did a flush of the entire system and drained all the old coolant while the engine is hot to make sure stat is open during the drain.

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AlexS

Alex - check your owner's manual. I can't imaging that the coolant amount would be different in the 97 versus the 95. It's the same engine, only without caps and rotors and a modified intake (which wouldn't affect the coolant capacity).

Your owner's manual should have this info somewhere. Wow - could this really be your problem?

Troy K.
1995 E420 83k

To make long story short...
I did not get the original owners manual when bought the car 5 years ago, however yesterday I bought repair service manual WIS (5CDs), hopefully will be able to find the answer there.

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AlexS

Did one yesterday, and it held slightly over 2 gallons (system bleeds itself). Was able to lower temps ~5-8C by pressurizing system and sealing leaks (mainly tightening hoses). Make sure your tank cap seals properly (I.E. does not leak your air pressure off), and verify your hoses are not collapsed when cool (indication you have a system leak). If your system does not pressurize, your car will run hotter.

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Don't ask me, I'm a shop-owner by default