I suspect that the driver side wheel bearing had gone south. The wheel woous some times and there is a difference in sound when car turns to the right. Is there any indications that would confirm my suspition ? I was under impresion that wheel bearings don't usualy brake on 124's. What could couse mine to go bad?
I looked in the CD manual and Hanes book, replaycing the bearing seems to be a tough tusk for a DIY. How much would it cost in the shop?



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Dmitry
90' 300CE
17" Lorinsers RS90
Brulen mufler
Clear Blinkers

Well, I didn't figure there was much of a way I could tell why a wheel bearing failed, until I read your signature. Large changes in unsprung weight and road forces beyond manufacturer design sound like the problem here. In other words you have at least too much tire on the car.

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Steve Brotherton
Owner 24 bay BSC
Bosch Master, ASE master L1
26 years MB technician

So what is next? Go back to the original wheels? How long would a new one lust?


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Dmitry
90' 300CE
17" Lorinsers RS90
Brulen mufler
Clear Blinkers

Probably long enough.

The bearings are really cheap (same bearings as a VW) if not purchased from MB. They are no more trouble to do than most rear wheel drive cars.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by stevebfl:
Well, I didn't figure there was much of a way I could tell why a wheel bearing failed, until I read your signature. Large changes in unsprung weight and road forces beyond manufacturer design sound like the problem here. In other words you have at least too much tire on the car.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
So what you are suggesting is not to go as big of an upgrade as a 17" wheel. It could possibly ruin your wheel bearings? Please elaborate..

A cars ride and performance are factors involved in designing a suspension. So are wear and intended service life. As you alter any aspect of a suspension you alter the whole equation. Using heavier tire/wheel combinations changes the requirements for springs and shocks and calls for more strength in all the joints. When prepared for racing, as those wheels would be functionally used, the control arms are stiffened larger brakes and bearings, stiffer (maybe different material: rubber vrs hard plastic) suspension pivots and subframe mounts (rear).

The steering isn't designed for the load so shimmy's are prevalent. Everything you change in the design of suspension is a tradeoff; handling vrs comfort. But, by only changing one aspect you wind up with poor results in both areas.

And besides, I'm a purist.

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Steve Brotherton
Owner 24 bay BSC
Bosch Master, ASE master L1
26 years MB technician

Thanks for the quick answer..Was trying to figure out, when I put on the larger wheels why I developed a shimmy,when I know the new wheels and tires were aligned and balanced.Now I know..

Rich, are you going to take them off?
It seems like we are not the only ones with larger wheels. If this would couse so many problems we would here about it. I am really confused now.



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Dmitry
90' 300CE
17" Lorinsers RS90
Brulen mufler
Clear Blinkers

Dmitry,

I am also one of those running on big tires/wheels combo but probably one of the lucky ones 'cause have not encountered wheel bearing problems since I own the car for three years now and app. 100k miles. And I am running 18" 225 wide tires, only in the summer though. Mind you I check the bearing play every spring and relubricate them as well . My friend also drives a 300E with 17" wheels and 215 tires and may have changed the bearings once since he owns the car, I'd say for 4 years, I have to double check with him. Hope this helps somewhat.

Alex