Need help with Idle control unit please
 

Hello Folks, very glad to have found this forum and I need your kind help on attacking this high idle issue.

Car: 1991 560 SEL with 103000 miles
Problem: idle at 1400 in P and 900 in D.
Action so far: measured idle control valve and get 4.8 ohms and 3.2 V with car running. That give me about 670 ma of current which is too low. I read that the current should be between 750 to 1000 ma.

Based on my search, there are 5 more items to check: OVP, ICU, Throttle switch, vacuum leak and injectors.

Since I don't have any warning lights on nor any problem starting the car, I don't think it is OVP. My next action is to check out the idle control unit. I already took the unit out and could not find any visiable burn or loose connection. It is such a small unit and I don't think I could bent it or flex it as some posts suggested.

Questions to experts: !) is there any way I could use my DMM to measure something on ICU to find out if it is bad?
2) I also read that the throttle position switch is near the cold start injector which is next to ICV. I read that one could measure if it sticks to the open position. Could you please let me know how to do that?

Re. Need help with Idle control unit please
 

Few things to try. With engine running, unplug the connector on the ICV. Idle should increase. If it does, then valve is working and current is probably ok. This also proves that the OPR is ok since it supplies power to the ICU which in turn provides power to close the ICV. You might still want to remove the ICV and spray some carb cleaner in the valve end to get rid of the dirt buildup since it's possible that it may not be closing 100%. 4.8 ohms sounds about right. Mine is reading 5.0 ohms.

The Throttle Position Switch (TPS) is very easy to test. With engine running at idle speed, pull off the TPS 3-prong connector. Idle should increase. If it doesn,t, either the switch is defective or the ICU is bad. The TPS connector is just behind and to the right of the Cold Start Injector (CSI).

Cold and/or deteriorated solder joints are sometimes a problem with the ICU. If flexing the board didn't produce anything, it may be worthwhile to just go ahead and resolder all the joints just to be sure. If may take awhile but it beats having to buy a new one at around $300. I don't have a schematic of the ICU and don't know anyone that does. Maybe someone on this list has one and could make it available to the members.

Another thing to test. With engine at idle, turn on the AC to its MAX setting. Your idle speed should increase. If it does then the ICU is sensing this condition properly and at least this portion of the ICU is working. If the engine runs slower, then the ICU is not sensing the AC compressor is turning on. This indicates that the ICU is malfunctioning and needs attention. If the engine speed stays the same, then the ICU thinks that the A/C is ALWAYS ON and this could be the source of your high idle. Again this points to a problem with the ICU or even possibly the A/C Controller Unit (ACU) which generates this signal to the ICU.

Apart from the other items that you mentioned, I would like to add another as a potential problem source: The Cold Start Injector. If the CSI does not shut off completely, then it could be "dribbling" extra fuel into the intake manifold. Proper operation calls for the CSI to ONLY be energized when the engine is intially started in order to provide an extra burst of fuel for starting.

Testing the CSI:
After the car has started, unplug the connector to the CSI and make sure there is no voltage present on the pins. Even without any voltage present, it's possible that the CSI may not be closing fully and could allow extra fuel to enter the intake. The only way to prove this theory is to remove the CSI (held in place with two small hex head screws) and see how the engine runs. If you decide to try this you would need to fabricate a small metal cover plate to bolt in place of the CSI during testing. Place the CSI in a small leakproof container to observe while the engine is running. You might even be able to observe that the valve is leaking in this way.

Good luck and keep us posted on your developments.

T.C. Mann (aka TechMann)

Thank You TechMann
 

I have cleaned the ICV with WD-40 etc and it did not help. And when I pull the power plug off ICV while the car is running, the idle does shoot up to 2000 RPM.

Is there any way I could test the TPS? Is the middle tip the ground so I could just follow the V change to see the TPS is bad or not?

I will do both the AC and CSI tests this weekend and I will report back my findings.

Reporting A/C test results
 

Turn the car on and let it sit for about one minute, idling at 1200 on P. Turn A/C to Max and the idle drops like a rock and stables right on 800.

However, it is not obvious to me that this result indicates "that the ICU is malfunctioning and needs attention." Could you please explain?

Re. Need help with Idle control unit please
 

The A/C Control Unit (ACU) sends a signal to the ICU whenever the A/C compressor is on. When the car is at idle, the ICU is supposed to increase the idle speed to compensate for the extra load placed on the engine by the compressor. Without this compensation, normal idle speed would drop below the recommended limit.

The ICU only needs to make this adjustment at idle and not at normal driving RPMs. How does the the ICU make this determination? It does this by sensing the position of the TPS. If the TPS malfunctions, then the ICU won't increase RPMs in response to the A/C compressor. This is why I suggested performing the A/C test.

The ICU also uses the TPS to trim the amount of fuel delivered by the injectors by way of the EHA (Electro-Hydraulic Actuator) based on the position of this switch. The ICU is supposed to reduce the amount of fuel injected when it senses the TPS in the "Idle" position. This is why when you pull off the 3-prong connector, the idle speed should increase since the ICU no longer senses an idle condition.

To Test the TPS:

When you pull off the 3-prong connector, idle should increase if the TPS is working correctly. Another way to test is to use a continunity tester on the male (stationary) end between the middle pin and the pin furthest from the CSI. At idle or when the engine is off, the meter should show a short between the pins. FYI, the middle pin on the male side of the connector is not grounded but is simply one of the switch contacts. On the female cable side of the cable, the middle pin IS grounded. This is where the TPS gets its ground connection from and uses it to ground the idle sense input pin of the ICU. Make sure the middle pin ground connection on the female cable side is good since this could also cause a problem.

T.C. Mann (aka TechMann)

Thank you again The TechMann
 

In other words, since my idle went down upon MAX A/C is engaged, it points to a bad TPS or ICU.

Since my idle is already high, do you expect it to go even higher once I pull the TPS? I have just got myself a digital multimeter. I guess I could measure the resistance "between the middle pin and the pin furthest from the CSI (cold start injector)" when car is not running. If the TPS is good, I should get 0 ohms.

One more question about TPS. Would it be the cable that is bad? When I was at one of these parts web sites, I saw a "throttle switch" and it looks just like a cable.

I guess high idle is one of the most common problems for W126 cars. I hope this discussion will benefit many otehrs. You are a great help. Thank you very much.

One question here! How do you set the Idle Air Control Valve Properly? And how much should idle raise when you unplug the 3 prong switch that tells the computer that the accelerator is released? Mine raises from about 800 to 1100 when I unplug the 3 prong switch! And I at one point turned that screw on the IACV and I think I have it back where it should be roughly but would like to correct it to the proper position! Of course when doing this I have to re-adjust mixture to make everything ok since I change the amount of air going through!

Edit: When I pull the 3 pin plug it idles at 900-1000! When I pull the PLug that goes to TPS I get no change! When I pull the EHA I get a lower more rough idle and when I pull the IACV I get a slightly hiogher idle. Test on the TPS gives me infinite resistance at closed throttle all the way to just before WOT. Then I get 0 Ohms at WOT! This is for a 1986 190E 2.3 8 valve with the KE-Jetronic II not the 1987+ KE-III! Idle is slightly felt when in P or D and stopped! Runs fine everywhere else in the power band! Also new cap, rotor, plugs(copper Bosch), wires, OVP, freshly cleaned main ground, O2, Water Temp Sensor, Engine Temp Sensor, Vacuum thing in sensor group, new water pump, cleaned injectors and ICV, and cleaned IACV, all new rubber hoses from IACV to rest of intake and Zero Position right on target as well as mixture!

Need help with Idle control unit please
 

As far as I know, the Idle Control Valve is preset at the factory. I have never heard of a procedure for adjusting the ICV. Basically, it either works or it doesn't. It is possible for the the valve to become clogged with debris so sometimes they don't close 100% thus allowing too much airflow. This is why it is recommended to remove the ICV and either spray some carb cleaner into the valve end or to soak the valve portion in carb cleaner. One way to positively check to see if its got a tight seal would be to cap off one end and then apply a vacuum on the other end using a hand vacuum pump.

Unplugging the 3-prong TPS connector should raise idle by around 300 RPM. If you unplug the connector and nothing happens, this points to either a defective TPS, a bad ICU, or a bad ground connection (middle pin) on the TPS female end of cable. (see my previous post for testing the TPS). Possible causes for a defective TPS include a chaffed or broken wire in the cable, dirty switch contacts, misaligned switch, or internal switch malfunction. If you would like to see what the TPS looks like see:

http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/wizard.jsp?year=1991&make=MB&model=560-SEL-001&category=All&part=Throttle+Switch


T.C.

I have cleaned the IACV, but I will recheck this weekend! As for the TPS I found how it works on the maint CD! Appears that the one on the intake portion is for WOT measurement! Only at WOT is the resistance 0 then it is infinite all other times. Then there is the other switch on the actuall throttle linkage! That is 0 Ohms at idle and infinite otherwise. They used two diferent things to determine it on my M102 engine! Go figure. I am thinking my idle that I feel is simply due to needing new fuel injectors! I have cleaned them by soaking them in carb cleaner and run several bottles of Techron through. I just put in two bottles of Lucas to try that! It normally runs smooth as silk when using the Techron, but I would have to add to each tank so I am assuming the injectors just need replacement. It runs a hell of a lot smoother than it did 4-6 months ago so I am gaining I guess. I am going to play around with the IACV this weekend while the wife is away on Sunday! I want to unplug it and see if she idles smoother! If so maybe it needs to be opened up a hair. All it does when you turn the knob is raise idle or lower depending on which way. Of course after adjustment you need to adjust mixture to compensate for more or less air. One of these days I will get it! Maybe I just need to get a new one, but they are a little pricey!!!!!:D

I was just sitting here and thinking!!! The IACV just spins to adjust the amount of air flowing through those tubes right??? So should the little valve on it be open at all?? Mine runs just fine with that closed all the way, so I would assume that it changes its velocity to adjust idle and hold it steady, Correct??? I have it open a hair whick would allow outside air into the system! Maybe that is the cause of my idle being felt inside the car, as I have new motor mounts and tranny mount so I would assume that I should not feel the engine running at all in optimum tuned conditions! I can not even tell my C230K Sport Coupe is running so I assume that even the 190 was designed to be smooth at idle! Can anyone verify that the IACV knob should just be turned all the way in? Of course it makes me wonder why there is a knob there at all!

Need help with Idle control unit please
 

I don't have experience on the ICV used on the 190 engine, only the ones uses on the 420's and 560's. These ICV's are nothing more than a solenoid operated valve. I don't even think it is a modulating type valve. In other words, it is either completely on or completely off. The valve that you're describing sounds a bit more complex than this. Hopefully, someone in this group will have experience with it and can explain the procedure for setting the knob adjustment.

T.C.

Hole on top and hole on bottom! The spinning tunbler in center which I assume goes slower or faster to control idle! Black knob on it that when screwed out allows air to be sucked in there as well, which I assume is probably for some testing process, I would assume you do not want unfiltered and uncontrolled air flowing into the intake as it would act like a seal was leaking. I will close it and report back if no one has answered by then! Thanks for your input on the rest and getting my brain to click on this one. I would assume you want a sealed intake, or as close to it as possible....:D

Edit: Update! Closing it in my case makes the idle much much worse. It must need to have some air so it works properly! Oh well, I think I got it better now but we will see. Raised it a hair and re-adjusted mixture and she is idling almost perfectly!

Bingo!!! TVS is dead
 

Start the engine, idle at 1400 RPM. Unplug the connector and nothing happens. Put a digital multimeter between the middle pin and the pin furthest from the CSI, the reading goes up to max and down to about 2 but never 0. Shut the engine down, and measure again, got max indicating an open circuit.

My question to you now is about replacing the TVS. The part itself can be had for about $40 everywhere on web. But removing the two screws at the throttle body seems very hard to me. In the 07.3-220 and 07.3-230 sections on shop CD, it seems to suggest that one must remove the whole air guide housing to access those two screws. Any tricks? Is it really a DIYable job?

Need help with Idle control unit please
 

Fortunately for me, I have never had to replace the TVS in my Benz. Several posts that I have read indicate that it really isn't a difficult procedure but that it is very time consuming due to the fact that so many pieces must first be removed in order to get to the TVS. Basically, you must remove the whole air guide housing in order get to the two screws that hold the TVS in place. People say that the procedure listed on the CD is adequate for the job and no special tools are required. The general consensus with doing the job is that while your in there, it is a good idea to replace all the rubber pieces (i.e. air flow boot, vacuum hoses, gaskets, etc.) since they harden over time and can contribute to vacuum leaks (another potential source for high idle). Since you mentioned that you have the CD, I would take a good look at the drawings and familiarize yourself fully with the parts layout and determine all the pieces worth replacing. Then go ahead and order them so that you will have all the parts handy when it comes time to put in all back together. The parts themselves (even at dealer prices) shouldn't run too much.

On the other hand, if you were to take it to the dealer to replace, you are probably looking at somewhere between $500-600, not because of the parts but simply due to the fact that it takes several hours to do the job.

If you have the time to spare, personally, I would do the job myself.

T.C.

TechMann, thank you again for your kindness
 

One last question. Could I plug a wire into the female plug to induce a 0 while the car is running to check if it is the TVS or ICU? I am not 100% sure about my ability to use a DMM.

If I use a wire to connect the middle socket to the one away from CSI, I should fool the ICU into a idle signal. If the idle remain high, then I need to order and ICU plus TVS. If teh idle went down, then all I need is the TVS.

Re. Need help with Idle control unit please
 

Yes, you can certainly use a jumper wire to go between the middle socket and socket furthest from the CSI to simulate a proper idle switch closure.

I am almost there
 

Facing high cost of replacing of replacing TVS, I did something creative. With wife in the car pumping the throttle, I manually push down teh air intake plate and just spary the whole can of Carb clean down on the throttle, focuing on the side with TVS. With that, I got my 0 ohms contact between Idle tips and got my normal idle. And I got 5V and 5 ohms on ICV.

Right now, each morning, I could start the car on the first try and get 800 on P and 600 on D. However, upon reaching work place 25 - 30 minutes later, I got 750 on D and 1200 on P. Something has happend when the car got hot.

I have gotten rid of those 1500 RPM high idle but still have to use extra brake in city traffic. The good news is that I know for sure every components are capable of working because I got good idle in the morning. The bad news is that I still have not clue where and what is lose upon the car got hot. The decent idle on D suggests the electronic system is not responing to extra load when engine is engaged.

My plan is to measure both ICV and TVS while car is hot to see if everything is still normal. Any suggestions and advises will be greatly appreciated.

same problem
 

hi. i have been reading your posts with interest because i have been chasing a high idle problem also on my '87 560SL. i did all the tests that you did on these posts, and originally thought that heat had something to do with it. many times the car would start in the morning, run good, and then went to high idle when hot. i figured a temp. sensor somewhere was messing up.

when the car went to high idle, the TVS was inoperative (pulled the 3 prong plug and nothing happened), the icv had 0 voltage, etc. When the car operated normally, all of these things worked within their specs. I looked in the CD manual, and concluded it had to be the icu (module behind the glove box) or the ovp relay.

the overvoltage protection relay powers a lot of this stuff thru the icu in this car. i checked it and the fuse was good. so it was between these 2 components, and i figured the computer was usually either brain dead or not, even though i have read about cold soldier joints, etc. i opened the module and nothing was burned and it looked new. so i decide to get a new ovp relay, thinking that maybe it was defective internally and supplying intermittent power or wrong voltages, etc. i spent about $80 on it, plugged it in and prayed, and it worked perfectly. The car idles better than it ever has, and its been 2 days of driving and its still good. so i'm guessing this relay has caused a lot of people a lot of trouble, and maybe you should consider this as the first replacement, especially if the problem is intermittent. hope this helps and good luck.

Did you have any other indications such as
 

ABS light on and hard start? Since I don't have any of those problems, I doubt it is the OVP.

This is what I found. When car is hot, I got an open circuit between idle tips of TVS and low voltage on ICV (3.5 V). I will measure again tomorrow moring when the engine is cold to see if I got a close loop on TVS idle point. May be, just may be, the TVS contact is loose and the expansion when car is hot makes it bad.

Where did you get your OVP? Does it come with one fuse or two? How did you pull the OVP out? Just by force? Thank you very much for your input.

benz;; i got my ovp relay from the benz dealer- around $80 total --could have ordered it but time was of the essence. it has 1- 10 amp fuse on the top of it, and has 5 prongs, whereas the original one had 4. the parts guy said it was the correct replacement part, and he was correct. the holder looks like it has 6 holes in it. the ABS light on this car never came on---and its not on now. the braking is good, but i have a feeling that the light is out in the dash. its one of those things you never notice until there is trouble, and i dont recall the light ever coming on when you first crank the car, as a check. it doesnt come on now when i just turn the ignition on---all the others do light up. I know the ovp problems is usually ID'ed by the ABS light, but in my case i think my "signalman" is dead. nevertheless, this seems to have fixed this problem--i have been driving the car as much as possible since i fixed it, looking for trouble, and it hasnt shown itself (YET!!!). To remove this thing, you just reach in the right side kick panel above the fusebox on this car, and pull it out. mine was kind of tight , and i wiggled it a little. I havent tried to figure out why the abs light is out, and i think i have to take the dash out. I hope this helps. good luck.

Thanks for your response
 

I still think my problem is throttle valve switch related because I could still get 5 V on my ICV, indicating power are going throuht ICU. I took out th eOVP last night and found the 87E (ABS) is connected with 87L (Idle). If there is a problem I will definitely see ABS light comes out.

I still could not get 0 ohms between TVS idle tips. Having done some research on the forum, I think I will still working on lubricating throttle linkage next. In one of the messages, he got his idle back by simpley spary Carb cleaner on the TVS.

Got some time this long weekend. If I can't get it done, the car is going to dealer shop early next week.

Have read this post and only saw one small mention by 'mctwin2kman' of the "Deceleration throttle micro-switch" which sits at the end of the throttle linkage. With the accelerator pedal up the top arm of the throttle linkage rests on the little button switch and needs to depress it sufficiently for it to 'click'. Have you checked/discounted this?

I only mention it as I had a similar high idle problem last week (1500 RPM in 'P' when engines at working temp) after getting the car back from the garage - was having the crankshaft position sensor replaced. As the mechanic duly went on holiday I did a bit of reading up to try to fix the problem myself. From some other posts I read about the significance of this little switch, and sure enough my linkage had somehow been altered so the switch no longer clicked. All I had to do was turn a little black plastic adjustment screw on the linkage a half turn, which slackened off the cable sufficiently for the spring to pull the arm more forcefully onto the switch. Immediately the switch clicked the idle revs dropped to 700'ish!

Might not be the solution for you but just thought I'd throw it in in case other readers are suffering due to something so trivial.

Need help with Idle control unit please
 

The reason I didn't mention the throttle linkage microswitch is that it doesn't apply in this case. The original poster has a 560 SEL and these cars don't use this type of switch. Instead they rely on the position of the TVS for "thrust cut-off".

T.C.