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  #1  
Old 11-04-2000, 09:28 PM
rappo
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Normally, I do not change my own oil on my cars (I do change it within 2500 miles on all cars). I am sick of the local lube shop butchers learning on my SDL, so I am going to roll up the sleaves and hit it myself.

I am also going to switch to Mobil 1 Sunthetic 10w30 unless I get a lot of neg reasons through this posting.

I do have one (silly) question...

Is there a recomended torque, or set of instructions to how tight to reset the drain plug? I know that this sounds like a rookie question, but there is nothing more rookie that dumping your 8.5 quarts on the pavement!

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 11-04-2000, 11:16 PM
metricman
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First off, get yourself a 6-point 13 mm socket. A 12-point socket will round off your drain plug.

Step one, change the oil when it is hot, not cold.

Step two, remove two bolts on top of the oil filter housing, and lift up the cover. This will allow the oil to drain out of the filter. You don't have to take the cover all of the way out until after you drain the oil.

Step three, use your 6-point socket to remove the drain plug. Dispose of your used oil properly, we aren't living in the sixties any more...

The torque on the drain plug is is only around 10-15 Nm. Not too tight, you don't have to kill it, and use a new drain plug seal every time.

Now replace the filter and add the oil. Don't over tighten the oil filter housing bolts either.

Check for leaks when done and don't over fill it....

Change your oil at regular intervals. I just instaslled a long block on a 1996 S420 with 81,000 miles that had not seen regular oil changes....chain broke and it was sludge city inside....

------------------
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  #3  
Old 11-04-2000, 11:39 PM
Johnny
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Rappo, I would highly suggest that you use Mobil's Delvac 1 synthetic instead of Mobil 1. Delvac 1 is formulated for use in diesels.

If you can not find Delvac 1, then use Amsoil series 3000 or Delo 400 synthetic. These may be a little more expensive than the synthetics formulated mainly for gas vehicles , but they are worth the added cost.

Good luck on your DYI oil changing. You will be glad that you decided to change the oil and filter. This way you know you will be getting a quality job because you are the one performing the service. Johnny

------------------
1986 300SDL 173K
1985 300D [sold]
1996 Explorer 62K
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  #4  
Old 11-05-2000, 07:24 AM
rappo
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Thanks for the quick replies.

Am I going to be in trouble with Mobil 1 (not delvac)? It does say that it is for Gas and Diesel. I already purchased it (but can return in needed). Also, as far as replacing the drainplug seal, Is this a standard ring (Pep Boys now that it is Sunday), or do I need to get it at a MB or specialty shop?
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  #5  
Old 11-05-2000, 08:21 AM
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Tucker, Ga USA
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Should be in with the oil filter o-ring in the oil filter box!
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  #6  
Old 11-05-2000, 08:42 AM
Larry Delor's Avatar
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Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Sarasota, Fl.
Posts: 3,077
I would also like to add that OEM filters are recommended by most everybody here. Like MANN or Hengst,also, from what I've read Fram is to be avoided...apparently outsourcing and some other factors have put this once quality brand, at the bottom of the pile.
Oh, and unless your allergic, get yourself some latex gloves (cheap at the drugstore) because diesel oil is really really black, and knows how to find every crevice on your hands.
Have Fun!
-Larry
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  #7  
Old 11-05-2000, 12:34 PM
Johnny
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Rappo you can use the Mobil 1, but I would call your mobil dealer for the area you live in and they will be able to tell you where you can find the Delvac 1. If you can not find the Delvac 1, then check the yellow pages for an Amsoil dealer for series 3000 or Chevron dealer for Delo 400. Also, Chevron has a dino oil called Delo 400 so make sure they are selling you the synthetic, if you have to go the Delo 400 route. Good luck. Johnny

------------------
1986 300SDL 173K
1985 300D [sold]
1996 Explorer 62K
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