I will post any findings and try to figure out the cause for limping home. :mad:

After having the battery off for a few days, and installing the new ETA,
and going into limp mode,

the codes I am getting are

pin 8 = 4, 8, 21, 45 after clearing them left with code 1

pin 14 = 3, 5, 10, 11 after clearing them left with

pin 6= 3, 8 after clearing them left with code 3

pin 7= 1 after clearing left with code 1

NOW I NEED TO FIND THE MEANING OF THIS CODES :rolleyes:

PK
Quite a few..
Some are limp codes and some are HFM..
An ignition skip is being detected in cyl #1
For this , I recommend new plug connectors under each coil.. common faulty connectors.

Next thing to do is clear all memory for adaptation mean on 8 and 14
This is done by clearing codes til you get a 1, then hold button for 8 sec , turn off key for 50 sec , on for 10 and start car.

The limp codes are from going into limp and indicate stop lamp sw and sticking throttle cable for CTP sw.

Check for slack on cable and lube.
Re-run car for a day and recheck codes.
There are too many now for pinpointing, but the new ones will give a better reading.

Thanks again Arthur, great help

I cleared all the codes, checked connectors, plugs may need to be replaced,
what plug is reccomende for this vehicle? Bosh platinum?

now I get code 21 on number 8 and tht's it.

The car runs excellent until it starts the limp mode.

No plats ..
104 eng run best with Bosch F8DC4 Supers , copper core ..set at .8mm..
Code 21 is misfire code for cyl #1.
When you change plugs , take a good look at that one for condition

Use magic marker and number the coil packs front to back. Switch two of the coil packs. Clear the codes and run the car. If the code follows the coil pack, replace it.

Thank's to both of you for your prompt replies, Arthur, do you ever sleep? I went to bed at 11PM and now at 5AM you have already answered my questions. Incredible. :confused:
N01 cylinder plug looks fine, bosch 0771 is what I found installed on all cyl's.

Swithed the 6cyl coil pack to the 2 cyl coil pack position and vice versa, and now the code is 22 on 8 pin.
The car run fine until I stopped then it started limping, this time it was more noticeable than before the pack switch.

No other codes on 8 or 14

How much is a new pack, today is our 22nd anniversary and I would like to take the old lady out on the MB for lunch. Does pep boys sell this item?

I work on the comp , so I sneak over to the forum between emails..

Anyway, a few things /observations

The 22 [from 21]code has followed the coil swap . The skip is now cyl 2 or 5. This means that there is a good probable of a bad coil. It also eliminates the ECU .The early BLUE sticker coils were known short life units. If you have a meter , I would check primary/secondary winding ohmage as compared to one of the others.
I also would go with OEM coil.
A scope is best on ign skips on these , as one coil fires 2 plugs [ they are in series , Waste Spark system], so anything in the complete loop will cause
the skip . The most common fault is the plug connectors under each coil. As they are short $ and known problems, I change them whenever changing plugs. Same goes for plugs ..ONLY Supers [ Boschs cheap plug] F8DC4.
There is much documentation on this in the archieves..If you can't find them, Fast Lane or any Import Parts/Speed shop will have them...
The code findings with the led are fine for chasing each set of coils/plugs, but does not specify any further. If a HHT tester were used , it would actually break down to the specifics. So, ohms/parts swaps back I forth, etc will work here.
Once you get the ignition up, I would still check the CTP sw, cable adjustment and brake light sw.
As you are going into limp as you stop , this could well be stop lamp sw or CTP sw...
Try coming to a few rolling test stops without brakes and see what happens .. and check for a bunched up rug arround gas pedal, etc....
Get ign out of the way first.

PS .. just occured to me ..if you left the connectors on the coils when you did the swap, above info does not apply, as you may just be moving a good coil with a bad connector, if you know what I mean

Thank you Arthur, I did leave the connector with the coil, it appears that the coil is bad, the side output going to # 5 is probably the culprit. Also they all have the blue sticker probably original 1993.

Now my dash lights went out as well, checked the fuses and none appeared burnt, i move them all 1/2 turn and back to make sure the connection is good.

Will call around to find a coil pack for #2 and 5 cyl.

I did test the car to a coast without applying the brake and the miss started anyways.

It is looking like the coil is bad.

gracias :D

OK
You are getting there

but....
<<I did test the car to a coast without applying the brake and the miss started anyways.
>>

The rolling stop test is to check the brake lamp switch for limp , nothing to do with skip..
One of your limp codes indicates a faulty BL switch, [ common limp fault], and cuz you state limp is appearing as you come to stop, this is just to eliminate the sw....
it is also a possible cable slack/sticking as you take the foot off gas when coming to a stop... just possible when/what/hows stuff....

<<It is looking like the coil is bad.
>>

Here are some coil specs for ya..........

coil secondary spec is 5.2-8.5Kohm
This is across both high tension terminals


primary is .03- .04 ohm

I have never seen any info on why the early coils did not hold up, but is my thoughts that due to being trapped by engine heat , having to fire accross 2 plugs, poor connectors , and crap wire harnesses, they just didn't have the beef needed for longevity..
I also think the reason plats don't work well [ even the "4's"], is due to the fact that with the 2 plug series circuit, the first plug fires from the electrode to ground, but the second one has to fire from ground back TO the electrode..and the eletrode on plats has a small electrode....so, who knows..
Another reason not to use a larger than spec. gaps on the waste spark system..large gap is doubled with the series circuit [ plug 1 plus plug 2 ]and taxes the coils.........[ many swear they idle better with 1mm gap, but I have not noticed this]
The only saving grace here is that the wasted spark draw is low due to no load/compession, but it still has to jump that second gap............

Well, It looks like you guys are right on the money again, bought a coil and connector. Installed it and it runs great no more limping, at my age any kind of limping is not good. Thank you Thank you Thank you.
Now I will take my wife out for lunch to celebrate our 22nd in Sausalito, the town next to the Golden Gate. ;)

You're welcome. Glad to help.