The master cylinder in my 1959 220S leaks out the rear, especially pronounced when I try to pressure bleed. If I can find a rebuild kit, any suggestions/pintfalls/pointers for me to consider when doing the job? After repair, must it be bench bled? If so, what is the best way to go about this? Thanks.

This should be a typical m/c rebuild, and bench bleeding is always a good idea, but not really necessary on a single cylinder system.

The important thing is that you remove any pitting that may be present. Face it, this car is not a "spring chicken". The odds are that you will find pitting in the cylinder, and probably pretty bad pitting. Unless you have to drive the car every day, I would disassemble the cylinder and check the pitting. If it's not too bad, hone it and find a kit. If the pitting is extensive, find a master cylinder.

You may already have sources for vintage parts, but if you get desperate, go to kienle.com. I visited their facility near Stuttgart in September. I'm sure they can get you what you need, and I'm also sure it won't be cheap.

Good luck,

------------------
Larry Bible
'01 C Class, Six Speed
'84 Euro 240D, manual, 533K miles
'88 300E 5 Speed
'81 300D Daughter's Car
Over 800,000 miles in
Mercedes automobiles

[This message has been edited by LarryBible (edited 11-10-2000).]

Instead of searching and paying high prices for a new cylinder you can get yours repaired
at White Post Restorations in White Post, VA.
They will bore it out and put a brass or stainless sleeve in and replace the internals to make it as good as new.

Tobias MB
C280Sport, 300CE, 400E, 190/5.0

Tobias,

Now THERE's some good information.

Larry

Larry,
Thanks, and they do clutch hydraulics also. They reduced the bore in my clutch master cylinder from 19mm to 5/8" when I built my 190/5.0. The pedal pressure was almost 80 lbs. so I reduced to 55lbs. by going down to 5/8" bore. Works great!

Tobias MB
C280Sport, 300CE, 400E, 190/5.0