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Old 11-10-2000, 05:53 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: McLean, Virginia
Posts: 254
The master cylinder in my 1959 220S leaks out the rear, especially pronounced when I try to pressure bleed. If I can find a rebuild kit, any suggestions/pintfalls/pointers for me to consider when doing the job? After repair, must it be bench bled? If so, what is the best way to go about this? Thanks.
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Old 11-10-2000, 06:11 AM
Posts: n/a
This should be a typical m/c rebuild, and bench bleeding is always a good idea, but not really necessary on a single cylinder system.

The important thing is that you remove any pitting that may be present. Face it, this car is not a "spring chicken". The odds are that you will find pitting in the cylinder, and probably pretty bad pitting. Unless you have to drive the car every day, I would disassemble the cylinder and check the pitting. If it's not too bad, hone it and find a kit. If the pitting is extensive, find a master cylinder.

You may already have sources for vintage parts, but if you get desperate, go to I visited their facility near Stuttgart in September. I'm sure they can get you what you need, and I'm also sure it won't be cheap.

Good luck,

Larry Bible
'01 C Class, Six Speed
'84 Euro 240D, manual, 533K miles
'88 300E 5 Speed
'81 300D Daughter's Car
Over 800,000 miles in
Mercedes automobiles

[This message has been edited by LarryBible (edited 11-10-2000).]
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Old 11-10-2000, 04:45 PM
Registered User
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC, USA
Posts: 688
Instead of searching and paying high prices for a new cylinder you can get yours repaired
at White Post Restorations in White Post, VA.
They will bore it out and put a brass or stainless sleeve in and replace the internals to make it as good as new.

Tobias MB
C280Sport, 300CE, 400E, 190/5.0
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Old 11-11-2000, 07:45 AM
Posts: n/a

Now THERE's some good information.

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Old 11-11-2000, 06:19 PM
Registered User
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC, USA
Posts: 688
Thanks, and they do clutch hydraulics also. They reduced the bore in my clutch master cylinder from 19mm to 5/8" when I built my 190/5.0. The pedal pressure was almost 80 lbs. so I reduced to 55lbs. by going down to 5/8" bore. Works great!

Tobias MB
C280Sport, 300CE, 400E, 190/5.0
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