Good or bad ideas???
 

I bought 3 bottles of Auto-Rx (Engine cleaning stuffs) . Should I use it to clean my 89 W124 with 120,000 miles engine?? I am taking my car to AAMCO tomorrow to have the transmission fluid changed, can they handle the job ???? Dealer charge me double !!!!($300 for so called power flush)

I think the consensus on this forum is that a quality oil is much better than any engine cleaning supplement, and I tend to agree with this. There are, of course, other opinions.

As far as the tranny fluid filter change, one would think that the dealer would use the correct fluid and filter for the tranny, which if you look in fastlane, totals about $100 for 8 liters of $10 fluid for refill (that includes torque coverter fluid change, which would probably be considered part of a "power flush") and a $20 filter kit. And these are fastlane prices, the dealer will be charging more. So half of the $300 dollars is probably for these items. Make sure aamco uses synthetic or oem fluid for the change. It is important.

Thank you. AAMCO said they use Dextron III which approved by mb.

if you got to www.motorminute.com and search for the sample newsletter they have a report on engine/trans flush machines.

I don't like engine flush machines, and would only want a person who has experience on my particular model transmission doing the work - even a fluid change.

120.000 miles is middle age and I don't know much about Auto-Rx but some of these cleaners dilute the oil.

When you say "engine cleaning stuff", I assumed that you meant spray degreaser kinda stuff for cleaning the outside of the motor.

Engines should be wiped off with rag, maybe a little all purpose cleaner (like Fantastic, although I don't buy the name brand), maybe a little "purple stuff" (new liquid degreaser that works great but can mark aluminum, Castrol sells it, but Napa has a "copy"), but NEVER pressure washers or copious soap and water.

Every Sunday morning I go to the local coin operated wash rack, which attracts 50+ nice cars. Nearly every time someone decides to "clean" their engine, going full force with the pressure gun. 90% of the time, the car doesn't start afterwards...

-David

Knock on wood but I've been pressure washing all of my car engines for years now, no problem. Just gotta know what to stay clear from.

These new 120 volt homeowner pressure washers are great for doing just that, less pressure so really not as much to worry about.

Do not flush the transmission, ever. Only let AMOCCO do it if they will drain the torque converter completely (it has a drain plug) and install new OEM filter (not some crap aftermarket). Do not use engine flush either -- MB uses plenty of oil, and their engines do not sludge up, unlike some others, especially if you use synthetic oil. Never use dino oil for extended use, you will have an incredible amount of "hard sludge" accumulate.

I would presonally fill with synthetic tranny fluid (I used it on the 280 SE after it blew a cooler line, much improved tranny operation).

Peter

Whats wrong with aftermarket tranny filters?
Whats a good synthetic tranny oil?
Whats considered extended use (for dino)?

Mobil 1 synthetic A.T.F. (don't whine about the price... a "rebuilt" tranny can
run $1500.00 + just for the "Part")
Most "Transmission Shops" shy away from M.B. trannys because of parts prices
and the incredibly fine tolerances. USE THE O.E.M. filter (Sleep well at
Night!)
Extended use for Non-Synthetic oil (with filter change) in "normal" urban
conditions would be 2500 miles. ENGINE OIL
(Oh! , Did you mean: Extended Use for mineral based A.T.F.?????)
Mineral A.T.F. is so cheap ( if you insist on using it ) 15,000 miles would be
a safe rule of thumb IF you plan on keeping the car.

Listen to psfred. Never let anyone machine flush any transmission. I have a good friend who is an independent transmission man and says that his business increased a lot when the "Flushing machines" came into town.
What happens is during the flush operation, fluid is pushed back through the filter and dislodges any trash in it. This trash then gets in the valve body and the trans is history. Best advice is have the trans serviced correctly (drain converter, pan, and change the filter). If the fluid is dark, then change it (and filter) again in about 500 miles.

Keep it clean and it will stay happy for a long time.

Running synthetic engine oil cleans the engine as you drive. Listen to Peter regading the transmission cleaning.

Haasman

"Dino" engine oil MUST be changed every 3000 miles or so for long engine life. "Dino" tranny fluid MUST be changed every 30,000 (or less in "severe" use, such as stop and go driving, city driving, taxi use, or very dusty environments).

Synthetics can go twice as long, and engine and transmission live become indefinite (meaning it won't WEAR out -- failures will be fatigue, overheating, etc.).

Aftermarket transmission filters are like aftermarket engine oil filters -- you get what you pay for, and the aftermarkets are often not much better than a rad wrapped around a perforated pipe, and will work just as well (as in not at all). Worst case they are so thick you have flow problems -- in a transmission, inadequate flow through the filter will cause slippaged and ruin it, in an engine, unfiltered oil goes to the bearings -- ruined engine.

Peter

Im all good there.


Looks like I need to make an order.
The synthetic Trany fluid in particular sounds like a great idea.
Does Mobil-1 make a 10W-40/50 engine oil?
If not which grade should I use?
Thanks Peter, haasman, et.all

Marty
P.S. What if I paid the usual $20.00 for a made In Tiwan FRAM sitting in my garage, should I return It?

Peter

What's your opinion of oil change intervals regarding the following driving habit:

The car's use is in say 3,000 miles is 80% highway, with each drive longer than 45 minutes. Is a 5,000 interval OK?

Additionally, I was reading the other day about oil filters and how some OEm manufacturer's include anti-drainback valves in their filters (Toyota for one) while general over-the-counter ones do not. The idea is that with each startup the bearings have a close to instant oil supply instead of several critical seconds of low or no oil supply upon initial starts.

Haasman

We got 300,000 miles out of a Chevy V6 (1990 or 1992) by changing the oil ever 3000 miles, regular 10W30 "dino".

I'd never use less than 3000 mile intervals on mineral ("dino") oil, as amost any "normal" driving is in the catagory of "Severe" these days -- highway driving is mostly 60 mph + (80 + on interstates these days), there is always way too much dust in the air, etc.

Synthetics can go 6000 or until the soot is too high for deisels -- which means the synthetic is the same price, by and large, with only half as much used, saving petroleum.

Mobil Delvac 1 is sold these days as "truck and SUV oil", 5W40 and is suitable for any engine. Probably the best bet in most vehicles, gas or diesel. Mobil 1 5W30 will be better in gassers in cold weather.

Peter