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  #1  
Old 10-30-2004, 07:27 PM
Ta ra ra boom de ay
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,915
silence please!

I am replacing both mufflers (silencers), what a rusted mess.
If I ever get the self-locking bolts out of the seal between the catalytic converter and the center muffler-

-Any tips on this (they are like solid rust in their) the mufflers are off as are both broken pipes pieces. Do I need to grind and drill out these bolts? Are the bolts a fixed (part of) to the catalytic side of the clamp, They just dont want to budge.

-What kind of seals do I need, are there two or just one, each pipe is different.

-When I reassemble should I anti-seize? everything before or after torque?

Thanks in advance
Marty
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-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html

Last edited by A264172; 10-30-2004 at 11:24 PM.
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  #2  
Old 10-30-2004, 11:26 PM
Ta ra ra boom de ay
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,915
bump it out of desperation
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-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html
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  #3  
Old 10-30-2004, 11:30 PM
wbain5280's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Northern Va.
Posts: 3,386
Definetly use anti-sieze. Consider a torch. Sorry, I can't hep you on the other difficulties. Good luck.
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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.
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  #4  
Old 10-30-2004, 11:56 PM
Ta ra ra boom de ay
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,915
Thanks for your response wbain5280

I have tried propane on the one bracket that slides (ha) off the pipe.
Their is hardened silver stuff about that can be scraped off,I wonder if it is anti-sieze.
The other brracket is behind a flange on the pipe and cant be replaced?
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-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html
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  #5  
Old 10-31-2004, 01:30 PM
Ta ra ra boom de ay
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,915
Quote:
Originally Posted by A264172
Their is hardened silver stuff about that can be scraped off,I wonder if it is anti-sieze.
Turns out it is the gasket for one of the two pipes.

Torch and torque combo got the bolts out of the removeable bracket.
Now back under the car to work on the other where space is precious. Ramps say the lift is king. I wish the king were here.
__________________
-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html
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  #6  
Old 10-31-2004, 01:57 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
I used a Dremel tool and a cutoff disk to cut the bolt I could reach, then tapped the rings around to cut the other side off.

You can sometimes just slit the the nut and the resultant clearance and heat from the cutoff disk will loosen it up enough to let it turn.

You may need to heat the ring to drive the bolt out, they can get stuck too.

You will probably need to slit the right side "slip joint" connection pipe on the front mufler to catalytic converter connection, it will not slide off, usually firmly rusted in place. You can do with with a small torch -- heat a line down the bottom of the pipe red hot, then turn the oxygen up and hold the torch about 20 degrees off parallel and burn the hot strip out -- this will leave the inner pipe untouched. Or, since this requires much more space and techinque than most of us have, use the Dremmel with a cutoff wheel to cut two slits in the pipe about a quarter inch apart, then peel that strip back and bend the "sides" back a bit -- pipe will fall right off.

This is a royal pain on the ground under a car, believe me!

Going back in, install the front muffler with clamps, but leave them loose, then install rear muffler, leave loose.

Hang complete exhaust (use new rubber, the old bits allow it to droop too much), then tighten the solid steel butt joint on the front muffler to cat clamp, leave the "fiber" one loose, then tighten the rear muffler to front muffler clamp, then last the fiber one.

The difference will be dramatic! Only problem is that now you will hear all sorts of noises you didn't before, and will probably next be replacing suspension links in the rear!

peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #7  
Old 10-31-2004, 10:46 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: North Central Kentucky
Posts: 1,068
I didn't see this until too late but I did the same thing on mine. Used a Dremal tool with cutoff wheels to cut thru the bolts, nuts and rust. Lotta cussing, laying under the car. I think I also used my Sawzall to cut off the pipes just past the joints so i could get in with the Dremel.
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  #8  
Old 11-08-2004, 05:32 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Charlotte, NCizzle
Posts: 238
i was trying to do the same thing. Funny i didnt have to cut the bolts even with 215,000 miles on them. Wrenches work great. 12mm and 13mm do the job. The hardest part is getting the pipes to seperate. Gonna try again this weekend. The torch sounds like a good idea....i wonder if just heating it up would let it come out easier. Anyways, thanks
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  #9  
Old 11-08-2004, 07:41 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
You risk damaging the cat if you bang on the pipes, and the mufflers are quite expensive enough for me!

Cut a slit in the slip-over pipe and spread it a little, it will come right off. Probably won't move otherwise. Dremel tool with cutoff disks works perfectly so long as you don't push hard!

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #10  
Old 11-13-2004, 09:07 PM
Ta ra ra boom de ay
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,915
Well I did it. After several weeks of interruption I finally got the new exhaust on. Those bolts would not move until I had drilled them 90% out. I must say that getting a particularly rusted stuck part out is as good as a cold beer on a hot summer day. Thanks Peter, particularly for the order of assembly. Having the assistance of this site is something for which I am more grateful than I can express. Mercedesshop has turned me from an admirer of my car (which I came across more than sought out) into a true Mercedes enthusiast. The first part of the newspaper I turn to is the auto classifieds just past Mazda. And when I get an unencumbered Saturday I think to myself I wonder what I can do for her.

__________________
-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html
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