Also, the harness looks okay, still flexible and the car has spark.

I don't know about the gap at the cam sensor either. I am not sure how to do this. I was under the impression that it would start without the cam sensor plugged in. (It is plugged in) Because the cam sensor only deals with the variable cam timing.

How do I do a compression leak down test? Is that when you leave the guage connected and allow it to sit at TDC and see how much it drops off?

Thanks,
Rob

<>


That is the intake cam advance magnet . Nothng to do with the cam sensor.
The cam position sensor times the fuel injection in sinc with the engine timing/ignition module.

The OVP is behind the panel behind the battery..

Are you going to give the other comp readings???

The car is about half an hour from where I live.

I didn't think this car had a cam sensor. With the HFM management, the car gets its spark timing from the computer with reference to the crank. If I'm wrong on this, I have made a bunch of bad assumptions.

Thanks,
Rob

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1D00YU6RY1DR0LX0TC&year=1994&make=MB&model=E-320-001&category=A&part=Camshaft+Position+Sensor

where is the sensor located.

Just so we are on the same page, you are saying there are two cam sensors? One for the timing advance, and another for the fuel injector timing?

Thanks,

Rob

Ok..

Well, here is the page I am on....

The cam sensor is L5/1. It is just to the left of the thermostat housing and goes into the head .. It is a pick-up that identifies the positon of the cam.. It has a gap adjustment/clearance spec. to the cam segments of .4-.6mm. This is the Gap clearance for it to work properly and is set with shim washers..The signal it sends to the ECU is an a/c sig of .5-1.5 volts.
There is only one of these . It sincs the injectors [among other things]

The cam magnet [which I assume you think is a sensor] is in front of the cam and it advances the intake cam when the ECU mapping decides to do it... this will be determined by various ECU load/air volume/ temps/etc .
This device does not send a sig to the ECU, it recieves a sig from the ECU.. so.. it is an acuator, not a sensor..
I have been trying to help in your diagnosis, but you write back such things as No cam sens. or this is HFM , so this does that , etc..
I assure you I am familiar with the HFM/SFI particulars and can only advise possible solutions if my questions are answered without the assumptions..
The reason for my question of the compression on the other cylinders
is to help verify to me if you have a valve chain timing problem or just bad comp on that one jug..so, we are still down to that question.???????

I realize that the compression is important to determine if it is a single cylionder problem, or a timing issue.

I was unaware that the vehicle had a cam sensor. I made some assumptions early on in my personal troubleshooting about the timing because I did not know it had a cam sensor. I meant nothing negative about it towards you or anybody else on this forum. I merely meant that I may have screwed myself by not having complete knowledge.

I would have checked the cam sensor first if I knew it had one because that seems to be the likely culprite.

What kind of a plug does the cam sensor have on it? I now believ that the cam advance actuator is on the right side of the timing cover just in front of the timing chain.

I will check the compression tonight across all cylinders.

I appreciate the help!

Rob

I checked the compression and it is not good!

The number one cylinder has about 90psi
#1 90
#2 60
#3 45
#4 45
#5 50
#6 60

I am not sure what this means now!

I checked the timing again, and the holes (with Drill bits) sit flat on top of head, and the standout on the block is directly above the O T mark.

I don't know what to think now.

Rob

I haven't read much of this but that compression su*ks. Big guess is the cam timing is wrong. Sub guess is it is so wrong thevalves touched things they shouldn't.

__________________
Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician

THe cams line up with the outsides of the cylinder head (4mm drill bits resting against head) and the OT is lined up with the standout from the block. I don't know how it could be off. I have rotated the motor several times to ensure that it is all correct, and it lines back up every time.

I don't know how the valves would be bent (not saying they aren't) but I only had the timing off the first time I had it all together by the amount of the cam advance. (I had the variable valve timing rotated the wrong direction).

Unless when I got the head milled, they took off too much and now the valves are hitting the pistons. How possible is this?

Thanks,

Rob

In your initial post, you'd mentioned that your gauge was crappy. Do you think the readings you are getting are accurate?


While removing/installing the head, was the crank set at 30 degrees before TDC? It think its at that setting where the camshafts can be rotated without risk of the valves touching the pistons.