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  #1  
Old 11-18-2004, 12:34 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 103
Looking for Tips for this weekend project

Car: 1991 560 SEL
Project: replacement of Fuel accumulator, fuel filter, fuel pump check valves, and some fuel lines.

I know I will need to drive the car to have minimum gas in the tank. I know about open gas tank cap and put it back on to release fuel pressure. I know I will have a small rubber stopper to plug the fuel line from the tank.

What I don't know if how do I prevent the gas in the line between filter and injector coming out. What is the bleeding process (keep cranking?). Is it o.k. to buy SAE high pressure fuel line rather than metric ones. Autozone sells those SAE for $8 a feet.

Any other "don't do this" or "do this" tip you all can kindly provide?

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  #2  
Old 11-19-2004, 04:22 PM
nglitz's Avatar
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Hamilton Square NJ, near Trenton
Posts: 391
When I swapped fuel filters in my '87 260E, I dropped the "rack" with the pumps and filter in it. Not too much fuel spilled out. I did get an initial pressure spurt, probably from the accumulator. I didn't do any special draining.

Afterwards, the flexible line between the pump and the "hard" lines to the front developed several pinhole leaks right through the side of the hose. I'm guessing because it was old & stiff & couldn't take the bending. It's also possible that I put a twist in the line when I tightened the swivel fitting. The replacement line was a "made up" line with crimped fittings. Fit right in, like it was made to. Worth getting, IMHO.

Several of the fittings use copper washers. New filters come with replacements. Other stuff should, but I don't know if they do.

Enjoy,
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  #3  
Old 11-19-2004, 07:10 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: new jersey
Posts: 181
I did the accumulator, check valve and filter. I changed one item at a time. with a new fuel filter full of air and a new accumulator full of air i am not sure how your system will react (get rid of air hiccups).to keep fuel escape to a minimum pinch soft lines as close as possible to what you are openning. a medium to low height bucket should hold anything you spill. if your soft rubber lines are old/hardenned then they will crack and need replacing, good if you can have those replacements on hand. don't apply torque directly on anything you tighten - they can't take it, use two wrenches. the plastic sleeve that fits around the filter, make sure it prevents filter bracket from touching filter. that is supposed to prevent corrosion but i think it also prevents conductivity (sparks + gas = *?#). work in the day time and do not use shop light. the bulb heat is enought to set off the gas fumes. likewise, dropping metal tools on cement floor can cause sparks. wear goggles.
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  #4  
Old 11-19-2004, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tan man
I did the accumulator, check valve and filter. I changed one item at a time. with a new fuel filter full of air and a new accumulator full of air i am not sure how your system will react (get rid of air hiccups).to keep fuel escape to a minimum pinch soft lines as close as possible to what you are openning. a medium to low height bucket should hold anything you spill. if your soft rubber lines are old/hardenned then they will crack and need replacing, good if you can have those replacements on hand. don't apply torque directly on anything you tighten - they can't take it, use two wrenches. the plastic sleeve that fits around the filter, make sure it prevents filter bracket from touching filter. that is supposed to prevent corrosion but i think it also prevents conductivity (sparks + gas = *?#). work in the day time and do not use shop light. the bulb heat is enought to set off the gas fumes. likewise, dropping metal tools on cement floor can cause sparks. wear goggles.
Hello Tan Man. Thanks for the tips. I got everything except the two wrenches part. Could you please give an example? I understand with those copper washers, I don't have to tight them done much. I am not that experienced with turning wrenches, so how long should I plan for these jobs. Is 5 hours enough?

To all, do you see a problem bleeding all the air out if I change filter and accumulator on one shot? All the fuel lines are very hard and I will be using rubber stoppers to prevent the fuel from coming out. I would rather do the whole thing in one shot.
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  #5  
Old 11-19-2004, 10:32 PM
sixto's Avatar
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Location: Eastern TN
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Don't worry about bleeding. It'll probably catch on the second try if not the first. If you're concerned, turn the key to on but not start and leave it in that position until the pump stops humming. Repeat about 5 times then start.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL
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  #6  
Old 11-20-2004, 12:36 AM
BenzMatic's Avatar
You can do it
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: OC S. California
Posts: 120
Just curious, Did you bought the accumulator from ebay (You was inquiring about it in another thread), the "effbee". Or did you end up buying a bosch.

Good luck on your project.

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