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  #1  
Old 12-15-2004, 02:16 PM
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Location: Baton Rouge La
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Front Cover gasket

Sometime this winter, I am going to replace the front gasket on my timing cover.

I have searched the threads thoroughly..and I usually see something like "much easier to do compared to the head gasket).

However, I haven't seen any advice, pitfalls or step by step. Also any idea how long it might take to accomplish this?

Also, does anyone know the gasket part number?

1988 300e Slight oil leak 110k

Thanks in advance for any advice

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  #2  
Old 12-15-2004, 02:26 PM
Ta ra ra boom de ay
 
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Location: Pittsburgh
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See this one: M103 Oil leak or burning?
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-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html
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  #3  
Old 12-15-2004, 02:31 PM
carson356
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gasket

the gasket is mercedes #103-015-02-20 also the valve cover gasket is 103-016-04-21 you should also get some mercedes sealant it is mercedes # 003-989-20-10
Ray
mercedessd@cox.net
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  #4  
Old 12-15-2004, 02:57 PM
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Buy the CD. The entire process is in it.
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  #5  
Old 12-15-2004, 05:02 PM
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Thanks...I have the CD....just haven't had the time to look at it....

I'll look at it....sometimes experience by members on the board, give more practical advice than the cd
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  #6  
Old 12-16-2004, 12:38 AM
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It's covered here:

M103 Oil leak or burning?

Which is a darn fine posting thread, IMHO.
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Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

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  #7  
Old 12-16-2004, 11:21 AM
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thanks...it's buried deep in that link..but I found it and that along with the cd manual will make the job easier to walk through.
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  #8  
Old 12-16-2004, 11:37 AM
LarryBible
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Use the recommended sealant. It is expensive but your resealing will last much longer. Using the wrong sealant could easily result in it leaking immediately.

You will need to slide the upper cover rearward and the correct sealant allows the lower U seal to stay in place. When sliding it rearward, use your fingernail to carefully see that the shaft seal does not fold and slips over the end of the camshaft correctly.

Good luck and Merry Christmas,
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  #9  
Old 12-16-2004, 12:19 PM
Ta ra ra boom de ay
 
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Location: Pittsburgh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryBible
Use the recommended sealant. It is expensive but your resealing will last much longer. Using the wrong sealant could easily result in it leaking immediately.
Larry,
By correct sealant do you mean the locktight 5900 or the MB stuff?
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-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html
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  #10  
Old 12-16-2004, 01:42 PM
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Seems like loctite 5900 is the MB stuff... you can buy it in tubes for 11-12 dojllars according to several websites.
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  #11  
Old 12-16-2004, 02:14 PM
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Did somebody say CD manual??

They sure do make the job easier, thats why I'm selling them.
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1987 mercedes 300E
1995 e320 conversion(hated the 300e grill)
HID/Xenon (D2S)
Keyless Entry
Monochromatic Paint (Custom Blue)
Smoked Tails
Flat Badged (front)
Debadged (rear)
custom "carbon fiber" console
18 inch HP EVO rims
Sold! Now I drive a Monte Carlo SS
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  #12  
Old 12-16-2004, 02:31 PM
LarryBible
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I was referring to the MB stuff, but it seems that there was a thread ages ago that gave the aftermarket equivalent. I think the answer was from Benzmac.

Merry Christmas,
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  #13  
Old 12-16-2004, 04:46 PM
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Here's a sealant thread:


Which sealant to use?
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  #14  
Old 12-16-2004, 10:24 PM
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Location: Joliet Illinois
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Replacing Timing Cover Gasket

I replaced my upper timing cover gasket a couple years ago and it is still nice and dry with no leaks. It's not a difficult job if you take it slow. The gasket itself is a u shaped piece that fits between the upper and lower timing covers. The rest of the assembly is sealed only with the special MBZ sealant (I bought it from fastlane). You will also need a new cam seal if I recall correctly.

To be successful you need to really clean the mating surfaces well. I scraped off all the old sealant and then cleaned the surfaces with lacquer thinner to remove any oil residue. Pay particular attention to the bottom corners, between the upper and lower cover, where leaks are likely to appear. There is a crevass that will leak if you don't get it absolutely clean. I used a sharp scribe to clean all the gunk out so the new sealant can do its job.

John

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