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  #1  
Old 12-31-2004, 10:28 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 592
on going saga

1989 300e. would not start. did not hear the fuel pump energize. replaced fuel pump relay and it started and ran well for a week or so. then after reaching operating temperature, would stall and not restart until it had cooled down some. replaced the coolant temperature sensor at rear of block. ran well for again a week or so. then started the stalling and not restarting thing until water temperature fell from the 82 degree mark. then replaced the ovp relay as last resort. same condition. won't run after reaching the 82 degree mark. once the temperature drops to say 60 degrees, starts and runs fine. till i reach the 82 mark. anyone have any idea as what to try next? thank you. and happy new year to all.

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  #2  
Old 12-31-2004, 06:55 PM
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Location: Accokeek, MD
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Why did it run after replacement of fuel relay? Is the replacement a new one or a used one? The solder points on the relay's circuit board get circular cracks on them and can open when the engine compartment gets hot.

But if the relay replacement is new then I doubt if the relay is the problem. To check for cracks use a magnifying glass.
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1993 190E 2.3
2000 Toyota 4x4 Tundra
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  #3  
Old 01-01-2005, 09:21 AM
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earl, thank you. fuel pump relay was a new unit purchased at fastlane.
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  #4  
Old 01-03-2005, 08:16 AM
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bump ....
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  #5  
Old 01-03-2005, 01:13 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 30
not a cool car

this is my car that my dear friend is trying to repair for me. everything seems to work so well and just this one thing keeps it from being working vehicle--once it gets hot it just shuts down. this has been happening for quite awhile. at first it would not restart once i had ran it for awhile, turned it off and then tried to start it again within a shart time. now not only will it not restart when the engine temperature is over 80, it will sputter out when i step on the gas. one of you smart people out there must must know the answer to this problem. yes?
any help sure would be appreciated.
thanks and happy new year.
jude
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  #6  
Old 01-27-2005, 03:12 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 592
finally

local independent replaced the distributor cap and rotor. fixed the problem identified above in first post. evidentally the 'resistance' would climb to unacceptable levels once the engine reached operating temperatures. now i know. and happy to share.
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  #7  
Old 01-27-2005, 04:58 PM
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Location: DFW / Collin County Texas
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Wow - I've never heard of that before. How many miles were on the car?
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  #8  
Old 01-27-2005, 06:11 PM
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about 110 k.
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  #9  
Old 02-09-2005, 12:16 AM
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Location: toronto,Canada
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wow, my 89 300E is experiencing the same problems as you (janko & jude).

janko ~ how much was the job to replace the distributor cap & rotor?

jude ~ did you end up solving the problem?
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  #10  
Old 02-09-2005, 09:07 AM
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it cost $285. that included $95 labor. i have been driving it for a couple of weeks and so far seems to be fine.
janko can enlarge upon this reply when he gets up. snore.
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  #11  
Old 02-09-2005, 09:54 AM
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yal yal is offline
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You can replace the distributer cap and rotor with your eyes closed. Its easy.
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  #12  
Old 02-09-2005, 10:47 AM
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and if only I knew what a distributor cap and rotor is...

*newbie alert*

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