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#1
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Would YOU buy it?
Hello Guys,
Need your opinion and thoughts on this one cause I’m on the fence about buying it…here’s what I’m looking at. 1987 300E with 148k mile It is a one owner car purchased and always serviced at the local benz dealership. The owner traded it in on a new 2005 E-class. Here are the problems with the car: Left front seat belt broken Left rear power window does not work Power head rest on front right passenger goes up but must be pushed down. Outside temp read out is broken Sunroof opens VERY slowly (dealer said they would fix if I buy) Brakes pulse (dealer said they would fix if I buy the car) Antenna does not go all the way down. The interior is just about perfect as are the engine and trans. The paint is perfect. Very glossy. It’s the original paint. Car was always garaged. There is a very small amount of rust on both sides of the car where the front jack would be placed if changing a tire. They are asking 4k for the car. So, give me your thoughts. Would YOU buy it? What does everyone think it will cost to fix the misc things? Thanks, Allan |
#2
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Outside of the sunroof, the rest of the problems are minor and fairly inexpensive. Well within minor DIY stuff. that's nice, low mileage and if the car was dealer serviced, with records, go for it. There's another 100k miles in that car.
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Norm in NJ Next oil change at 230,000miles |
#3
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[QUOTE=94E420] What does everyone think it will cost to fix the misc things?
Who knows? Not only do you have the items that you know about(listed above); then there are all of the things that are wrong that you don't know about. The car is 17-18 years old. You could spend a fortune fixing the car. There have been discussions similar to this one lately. Are you nuts about the car? Are you willing to open up your wallet? Unless you're a very talented tech with all the tools you'd need to repair the maze of things that could be wrong, I'd look for something much newer. Even with strong tech skills, you could easily spend a fortune in parts. My 2 cents. |
#4
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I agree other than the sunroof the rest is DIY stuff. Get a look at all the dealer service records and post back for us to comment. Sounds like a diamond in the rough to me, if he is asking four, you know he will take less
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#5
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Allan,
Yes the stuff listed isn't too much to fix. But as Mike says don't worry about what you know. Worry about what you don't know. I have an 88 300ce which like this had a glistening original paint exterior (garnet) and a like new interior when I bought it 3 years ago. But don't let that blind you to the fact that this a used car. Check the maintenance records. Things like valve guides and seals, head gasket, water pump and timing chain replacement. And what if anything has been done to the tranny. I bought mine in 2001 with 41k on the clock. A PPI revealed need for headgasket, which was done. Then came valve seals at 56k.. around 450.00 at an indy... and I also had major expense with the tranny early on. Caveat emptor. Trust no one and I mean no one when buying a used car. I'd run a carfax on it anyway. Call it cheap insurance. Also, try and get an indy who knows the 124/103 inside and out to do a ppi for you. Then and only then would I make an offer. Parting shot..fwiw I love my car! |
#6
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If the dealer includes a warranty and you like the car and price. Buy it
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#7
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Misc. thoughts - this sounds like a nice car - but if you are not a proficient or at least enthusiastic, DIYer you shouldn't buy it. There is just too much maintenance on these cars and parts prices are going through the roof on account of our currency being worthless. $4,000 is too much for an 87 - even in good condition. Also, how much to fix those things is the wrong question - most of those things should not be fixed on a car like that. The car is headed to the salvage yard - it doesn't need to arrive there with a bunch of new gadgety and unncessary parts. Only the brakes and seat belt should be fixed - get actual quotes. BTW, I am assuming the rust is surface rust - if it's deeper than that you should not buy the car under any circumstances at any price. There's too many good cheap dry cars out there for sale.
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#8
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with the stuff you listed and the ones the dealer will fix, sounds like a good deal to me. Buy it man
__________________
89 190E 2.6L Arctic white Grey leather Sunroof Pirelli P400 rubber Smoked corners |
#9
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Another opinion...hehe...
For 4K, I would expect EVERYTHING to work, no exceptions, no DIY projects right off the lot...cmon. That is too much money if everything did work, but with the things you know about, and the things that you will find out for yourself...please, you will find better for less. If you have already married the car, then get an extended warranty for sure, and see if you can all those "known" items taken care of before you plunk down the mighty dollar. GL |
#10
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No: Not for $4K 150K mi and the long
fix list. Maybe offer $3k? $5-7K should get you a one owner, lower miles 80-100K car with everything working. |
#11
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Take a look at the blue book for the oldest version of that same car and then do an adjustment down for age and mileage (and obsolesence).
Three years ago I bought a 1990 300E and the blue book was almost $7k. At that time the car was 11+ years old. Of course you'd be a dream customer for a dealer since they can almost never sell a car once it has reached 100k miles anyways so you've got bargaining room here. Beware - eventually this car will leak oil (if it doesn't already). Oil leaks aren't themselves expensive to fix but the labor is tremendous unless you're willing to do this work yourself. See my posting today about this very point. BTW - don't forget about A/C. The crossover to the new freon wasn't until 1994. You'll pay through the nose for the old stuff. Fortunately, you can sometimes get lucky like I did. A local shop was able to flush and re-charge my 1990 with the new freon (no new parts needed). |
#12
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Pay the dealership's service department perform for an "inspection for purchase". Usually costs about two hours worth of labor. Include a compression/leakdown test.
They will have to list all the items the car will need beyond what the sales person disclosed. This will give you a detailed list and will put the entire store on notice as to exaxtly what the car needs .... (Service Department vs the Sales Department) and you into the empowered position of negotiation. You can then decide whether you REALLY want it or not. My FIRST reaction is the rust. What does it look like from under the car? Is there more rust? $4k invested in a rusty car bothers me. Haasman
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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold '95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex '93 190E 2.6-Wrecked '91 300E-Went to Ex '65 911 Coupe (#302580) |
#13
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Quote:
IMHO, buy a newer version of the same car. It's been said many times, there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes.
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Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
#14
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I bought 86 with 112000 2 years ago, it was a original az car 2 owners, 20000 miles later a tune up and struts, now its going to need a valve job, but that should be it for another 100000 miles, love the ride
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#15
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Quote:
Another reply to this thread indicated that for more $$$, you could get a car with NO problems. There is NO such thing as a used car with NO problems. In closing, this car is on an MB dealership lot. Forget the blue book. Dealers are in business to make a living. You might get them to negotiate downwards; don't be surprised if they don't. This applies to auth. MB dealers and indy dealers. Some do; some don't. It all depends on what kind of $$$ they need to make to come out they way they want. |
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