About a month ago, the heater blower in my '87 560SEL stopped working although all other functions of the climate control system appear to be working fine. Given the current cold weather and the more frequent need for defrost, this is not something I can go without for very long.

From reviewing posts here and the FSM, it appear that there are three possible problems: bad blower, bad contacts at the switches/buttons, or the blower control module. Is one of these generally more common than the others?

Thanks
jlc

__________________
Jeff

'87 560SEL 267K (177K on motor) Blue/Blue
'98 Buick LeSebre 60K (wife's car)
'56 Imperial Sedan 124K
Past Cars:
'67 Dodge Monaco 130K (Sold)
'87 Chrysler 5th Ave 245K and going strong (sold)
'73 Plymouth Satillite 175K (sold)
'96 Chrysler LHS 80K (totaled)

What does the fuse and fuse block look like? I ask because of the possibility the fuse has blown, or overheated and burned the surrounding fuse block.

__________________
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

OF course the first thing to check is power supply, ie; fuse & power to the blower housing. IF that checks out the most common failure is the motor itself.

__________________
MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES)
ASE Master Technician
Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times)
44 years foreign automotive repair
27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer)
MB technical information Specialist (15 years)
190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold)
1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold)
Retired Moderator

If the fuse continues to blow there is a retro fit kit made by MB that moves the fuse out of the fuse box onto the fender well and raises the current level. This is a common problem on the W126 as they age. The kit can't be used on other models or it could case a fire

__________________
Old age and treachery will allways overcome youth and skill!

1993 S500
1984 380SL

It is very easy to replace the blower motor (if you are a contortionist).

If everything else checks out and you suspect it is the motor itself you can always set the fan speed to high and then bang on the area near the motor. Most times (if it is the motor) it will come on which means it needs to be replaced - a really untechnical way of checking but gets the job done.

if it starts with the bang method, it could be brushes which are replaceable. I did my 126 300SD in about 45 minutes
I never knew the fan had that much power. The brushes made a world of difference

Thanks for all the good info.

I checked the fuse first thing and it appeared fine. There are also a couple of other items, I've forgetten what, that run off the same circuit and they were still working. I haven't yet tried to trace the wiring and actually check for power at the blower as I haven't retested my ability as a contortionist. Any advice on how best to access the blower while minimizing the need to visit the chiropractor afterwards?

jlc

__________________
Jeff

'87 560SEL 267K (177K on motor) Blue/Blue
'98 Buick LeSebre 60K (wife's car)
'56 Imperial Sedan 124K
Past Cars:
'67 Dodge Monaco 130K (Sold)
'87 Chrysler 5th Ave 245K and going strong (sold)
'73 Plymouth Satillite 175K (sold)
'96 Chrysler LHS 80K (totaled)

Put the passenger seat all the way back and be sure to put something thick and padded over the rocker panel so it won't kill your back while you are peering up under the dash. An old pillow actually works very well.
I am guessing it is the brushes as mentioned in the other thread. It is an easy DIY job if you have the patience and some Tylenol P.M.(or some form of "liquid pain killer" ).