Mine takes a few cranks on a cold morning. I found that by adjusting the EHA an 1/8 to 1/4 turn CW makes it start much better. Also I have a new used Idle Air Control Valve for mine to put in this afternoon and see if that will smooth my idle out. Idle is smooth but I feel it slightly and if I look at say the passenger seat I can see it vibrating. I think the IACV is not opening and closing as it should, smooth and quick enough. I have replaced the fuel pressure reg, spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter x 2, injectors, head gasket, gutted pre-cats, motor mounts, tranny mount, all rubber for vacuum lines inside and outside, Water Temp Sensor, Engine Temp Sensor, Vacuum Sensor thingy, and all rubber going to and from the IACV. Now half that stuff was actually needed and of course the rest is good for peace of mind as well. The injectors kind of piss me off since I really did not need them as it turns out but hey I have new ones now so no worries. So the last thing is the IACV, AFM, and fuel Distributor for the idle. I am doing the cheapest as the engine runs great everywhere else. Tested everything and all seems fine. So we will see what this does....

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~Jamie
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2003 Pewter C230K SC C1, C4, C5, C7, heated seats, CD Changer, and 6 Speed. ContiExtremes on the C7's.

1986 190E 2.3 Black, Auto, Mods to come soon.....

Dear mctwin2kman

My shop suggested to order for me a new IACV. They intend to swap the old with the new to know if that is what's moving the AFM/Throttle plate so erratically during idle. They said that if that is not the problem they'll take it off and become their inventory. That was so really nice of them so I agreed. I'm now waiting for their call to know if it's already available so I can bring the car to them. As you've recommended, I'll also ask them to check on all vacuum lines and rubbers for good measure. I'll report the outcome to the board as soon as they're through - I hope that others are reading this as well since I read a lot of threads (archive) here in the forum that does not provide any conclusion (happy or sad ending). They, probably just got tired of typing.

Thanks for going out of your way to answer my queries. I see that you've been very busy with your car as well - I'm not alone....

I just put a IACV that I got on E-Bay in mine. Idles so much smoother than before, mine I do not think was ever closing all the way! Let us know what you find as mine still has an idle that I can feel slightly. I want it smooth as glass almost, although I may not ever achieve that. Also think in my case it was the motor mounts I got off E-Bay. Maybe too stiff. Now the motor runs smooth though and does not have the occassional jump like it used to so I am much more happy. All the work I have done in the last few weeks has finally paid off for me. The car runs great, now I need to work on some of the interior and fix the damn leak above the drivers visor!

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~Jamie
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2003 Pewter C230K SC C1, C4, C5, C7, heated seats, CD Changer, and 6 Speed. ContiExtremes on the C7's.

1986 190E 2.3 Black, Auto, Mods to come soon.....

My shop has not called yet, but I'm going to follow it up today.

Just a thought for my car-can bad fuses/fuse terminals/elect wires, affect the rough idle also?

I mentioned earlier that I've had a blown relay (for aircon aux fan). Recently I had to replace my headlight bulbs (L&R) because the left had no low beam. After two weeks with the new, I noticed that the right headlight has no low beam too. I looked at the fuse box and none of them are blown. But I noticed that some of them are moist but the box itself is bone dry. Cleansed the fuses for the headlight and the low beam came back. Did not try it with the others, though, since I don't know if there is a fuse in there that directly relates to the fuel distributor/control unit/idle valve, etc.

Any thoughts???

Further, last Saturday night, I tried to experiment and turned the key to on without cranking it. It stayed there for about 2 minutes or so then I turned the key off.

In the morning, when I started the car, it started immediately without any problems and I did not even touch the gas pedal. Although, there is still the same idling issues. What I've learned so far is that if I turn the key to on for a long time before cranking it, it starts immediately when I do crank it.

Is the starting and rough idling related or are they separate from one another?

Well, I'm just looking for clues...Anyone??

I've got a sad news...swapping the old with a new IACV did not solve the pulsating/erratic throttle plate. I'm left with no option but to try and swap my control box with a used one tomorrow. I hope this cures my problem. I will post as soon as I get the results.

Seriously check that large rubber boot under the AFM, it covers the whole bottom of the AFM! It is prone to cranking and leaking! Also check the vacuum lines under there. If that plate is pulsating then I would think there is some sort of leak somewhere. Only three bolts hold the AFM on after you disconnect the fuel lines. Should only take about 30 minutes or so to check it for a good mechanic. Like I said when I had mine all apart I noticed it cracking right around the rubber flange that attaches to the throttle body!

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~Jamie
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2003 Pewter C230K SC C1, C4, C5, C7, heated seats, CD Changer, and 6 Speed. ContiExtremes on the C7's.

1986 190E 2.3 Black, Auto, Mods to come soon.....

Based on the failure of a new valve solving the problem, I think Jamie's suggestion on vacuum leaks warrants merit at this point.

Peter

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Auto Zentral Ltd.

Today I noticed when I put the AFM back on the intake that I did not have the rubber boot sealed all the way because it has become too Pliable and no longer has a nice rigidness to it. I was looking at it to see if I could temporarily seal the cracking starting using RTV. Well after all was said and done I am deciding to replace it of course, I wanted to seal it to make sure that was the cause of my feelable idle woes. Well it is so I will replace the bad bay soon. I mention this because by looking at the rubber piece you can not tell there is anything wrong with it. I of course did not notice until I had completely removed the AFM and fuel distributor unit when doing the head gasket. I could not see the cracks with a mirror and light due to the location of them, which is on the backside of the rubber boot right above the Throttle Body! Just an idea.

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~Jamie
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2003 Pewter C230K SC C1, C4, C5, C7, heated seats, CD Changer, and 6 Speed. ContiExtremes on the C7's.

1986 190E 2.3 Black, Auto, Mods to come soon.....

Dear mctwin2kam/autozen/yal/schumi (hope I did not forget anyone),

Thanks for all the help.

I've swapped my control unit with a used one and all is how it should be now, e.g., no more pulsating/erratic throttle plate at idle and starting is immediate. Further, the idle is rock steady even when I turn on the aircon. I did not even have to adjust anything after putting it on. Bought it at about US$250.00 which is quite cheap considering that a brand new unit will cost me about US$1,400.00!!!!

Now that I have a defective control unit, I'll try to search for a good and reliable technician who can repair it so that I'll have a spare or probably use it as a donor for parts later.

What a relief...next stop is to replace all the rubbers and correct my rear camber.

Glad you found it! I have found mine as well, now of course I need the part and the time to replace it. But alas my temp fix should hold up fine until then. Car ran great this morning. Started right up fine with like one crank and then idled nice and smooth. I could feel it a little when it warmed up but all is well. Once I get the Intake Boot replaced I should be good to go. ONly took me a year to get this pig running great, but I feel good cause it only cost me a few hundred bucks and I did the head gasket and all the work myself in the old garage! I was about ready to junk the thing. Too bad the last owner did not take care of it. Now I just gotta fix a water leak inside and my drivers door seat switch and panel and a few other interior things and she will be almost perfect.

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~Jamie
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2003 Pewter C230K SC C1, C4, C5, C7, heated seats, CD Changer, and 6 Speed. ContiExtremes on the C7's.

1986 190E 2.3 Black, Auto, Mods to come soon.....

124,
Thanks for the thanks, and thanks for the feedback. I'm not clear which control unit you replaced. Was it the idle speed control unit or the main CIS computer?

Thanks,
Peter

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Auto Zentral Ltd.

for the benefit of those who uses this forum's search engine I might as well list all the appropriate names (only those I've encountered in this forum) of the unit that I replaced: KE Jetronic # 0280-800-124, a.k.a., KE ecu, CIS ecu, CIS-E ecu, electronic control unit, ecu, control box, electronic control box, control module, electronic control module, CIS-E control unit, computer box, computer control unit, brain box.

Hope this helps.

just thought i'd post further enhancements to my starting problem:

before ecu replacement, turn ignition key and starting goes like this:
"crankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrank(gas pedal)crankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrank (then engine starts)"

afer ecu replacment, turn ignition key and starting goes like this:
"crankcrankcrankcrank (then engine starts)"

change oil and tune-up, turn ignition key and starting goes like this:
"crankcrankcrank (then engine starts)"

change gasoline brand and octane (96 to 93), turn ignition key and starting goes like this:
"crankcrank (then engine starts)"

I don't know if it's my imagination but I'm even noticing better fuel efficiency and engine is humming quite nicely. No pings/knocks whatsover.

I'm really learning something new each day. Thanks to this forum.

wowoweee!!!