My '80 300SD appears to be sitting rather low in the back. I figured the rear springs are tired and need replacing. Could this be done using a floor jack and jackstands? I found an outfit that sells OEM springs for about $85 a piece. I looked in the partsshop for them, but didn't find anything other than filters and brakes for my car.

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1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi)
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
MBCA member

Very dangerous w/o special spring tools. $106 is list for spring 116-324-08-04.

Well it was worth a shot. I generally don't mess with shocks/struts, and springs since it is dangerous work with out the proper equipment, but I thought I would ask anyways.

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1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi)
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
MBCA member

Just wondering, are you sure the springs are causing your car to sag and that the shocks are not to blame? I know that it is very easy to replace the rear shocks in the w123 cars. I'm not sure the same is true for your car.

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2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel - 4x4, auto, 3.54 gears, long bed
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'92 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel - sold
'83 300D Turbodiesel - 4 speed manual/2.88 diff - sold
'87 300D Turbodiesel - sold
'82 300D Turbodiesel - sold

SW, No I don't know for sure. I always thought that it was the springs that gave the car height, and the shocks just controlled the bouncing of the springs. Though the car does hit the bumps rather hard. Of course some of this is simply because the body is old, but you may be right about the shocks. They do look fairly easy to get off. I'll have to look at them again. Unfortunately here in NJ, it has become to cold to work outside for any length. For the last couple of weeks it has routinely be in the 30's during the day.

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1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi)
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
MBCA member

If you are going to replace the shocks, might I suggest putting on Bilstein (OEM) or other High-end shocks. Rear set runs about $160, and $125 for the front set. If the mounting bolts are not frozen (and neither are your hands) you should be able to replace the rear set in about 30-45 min in your driveway. You should also replace front and rear at the same time if economical for you.

Good Luck,

Every car that I have drivent hat needed new shocks, was very firm over bumbs. you'd hit a bump and bounce sharply for a bit. if thats the problem you are having, its probably shocks.

Have you done the push test?

Push down on one of the rear corners and release, if the car returns to normal without bouncing up and down, the shocks are fine. if it bounces, get em replaced or checked.

I don't think springs fail that often if at all.

I'm not a tech, so don't take my word for it. justa way you can tell if the shocks are gone or not.

Alon

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'92 300CE - Sold
2004 C240 - 744 - C7 Wheels - Android Radio
2002 C320 - 816 - Sport Wagon

This is my "driveway mechanic" method of changing REAR spring/shocks on my 16V.

The first time I changed the springs, I was sure that I needed the MB-style spring compressors. So I bought a set from our friends here at mercedes Shop. During the process of removing/installing springs, I happened upon a method that, for me, was simpler than using the spring compressors to remove the rear springs (the compressors can be tricky to use).

I now access my springs by first jacking up the rear of the car using a hydraulic floor jack and resting the rear on suitable jack stands. I then remove the approprate wheel. I then, after removing the plastic cover and directly beneath the spring seat (there is a corresponding flat spot) just barely support the lower suspension element (i.e., the element which supports the spring -- i don't know the name of the part) with the hydraulic jack. With the suspension member supported, I remove the bolt which attaches this suspension member to the car frame (toward the mid-line of the car in the direction of the other rear wheel). Once the bolt has been undone and removed, the force of the spring on that suspension element is now being transmitted to the hydraulic jack. Very slowly lowering the jack reduces the spring compression. The spring expands and, evently, will not be compressed at all. On my 16V, I can then pull the suspension element down a little more and just pluck the fully expanded spring out by hand.

I like this method since I never have to hold a fully compressed spring in my hand (which unfailingly makes me very nervous) either to remove it, unpress it, or reinstall it.

Installation is essential the reverse. The only tricky part is lining up the hole on the part of the suspension element that receives the bolt to the carrier on the car frame. This can take a little practice -- to get the holes to line up -- but in my experience it has been easier than reinstalling the compressed spring. Also, the locking nut on the bolt must be renewed.

Some of the more serious techs out there will probably tell you not to do it this way, but it works for me.

John

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john
'87 2.3-16v
'92 500E

Thank you all for the responces. This site is priceless, not to sound like a commercial. WmHarlow you are right about if my hands aren't frozen. I haven't changed the shocks yet but it has been very cold here in NJ. The other morning I went to start my car and I could hear the car saying..."I don't think so buddy you forgot to plug me in". It was 25 degs. that morning. Would worn out shocks affect the ride height?

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1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi)
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
MBCA member

Shocks don't support ride height, only suspension damping. So don't think that shocks will help with a saging rear end. And on 190's the spring isn't 2 feet long and it is easier to replace.

MB Doc, so do you think it's just a matter of tired out springs? Or is there something else I should look at.

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1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi)
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
MBCA member