Guys

My distributor adjustment 6mm hex bolt is stripped internally by the PO. Any suggestions on how to go about removing this?

Oreo

__________________
1992 124 E200 (Euro)

I had the same thing happen to me on a head-bolt in my 560SEL. I had great results with Craftsman Power Bolt-Out bits. They are like a socket, but have a spiraling biting edges and get a good grip on about anything. The only caveat is that you have to be able to get it on the bolt, so if it's flush-mounted you may be screwed - pardon the pun. With mine, the heads of the bolts were exposed and even though they were perfectly round being an 8mm allen drive, the extractor got it on the second try.

The other thing I just thought of was clearance, I hope you have it. If the head of the bolt is exposed, the best way to see if these would work would be to try slipping a regular socket bit over the head just for a fit check. If you can get a slightly larger bit to slip 1/8 - 1/4 inch over the head and would still be able to connect your socket to it, then bolt-outs will probably work. I was also shocked about how much torque these things can take and break loose!

Good luck!


Scott

Likewise if you can simply pound the corresponding size 12pt socket overthe perimeter of it, it should grip sufficiently to remove the hex

__________________
Regards,

Albert
aldedmon@yahoo.com

Another idea is to get one of those special security screw tools. They are designed to tighten\loosen those flat topped fasteners with the 2 small holes on the head. Then drill your own little holes.

You could also get a small grinding wheel on a dremel and cut a slot in the top. Then use your screwdriver.

Drilling into the top with a left handed drill bit may do the trick too.

I've also chiseled of the head and used easy outs to get the shaft out. Once the head is off, there is no tension holding the bolt in, and it comes out easily.

I've apparently worked on a lot of crusty stripped stuff in my day..

Thanks for tips guys. I tried to remove the distributor hold down bolt on my brother 124 and guess what? That one stripped too. Is this a funny siZe like a 7mm allen size?

Oreo

__________________
1992 124 E200 (Euro)

First, make sure the bolt is actually stripped all the way down into the hole. To do this, make SURE the bolt head is cleaned out. Use a small screwdriver and some WD40 to clean out the head. Then put your allen socket into it, and tap with a hammer to make sure it's completely seated. Try again and see if it will grab the allen head now that it's in deeper.

If that doesn't work, the 12-point socket (as mentioned earlier) works for me all the time. Get one that is just slightly too small for the bolt head. Pound as hard as you can with a hammer until it seats on the bolt head. Spray with a ton of PB blaster (1/2 hour apart for a few hours works wonders if you have the time!) and unscrew. You'll be amazed..

Neal

__________________
'83 300SD 335,000km (207k) mi SOLD
'87 560SL 163,000km (101k mi) SOLD
'86 300SDL 356,000km (220k mi) SOLD
'92 500SEL 250,000km (155k mi) SOLD
'90 300SL 140,000km (87k mi) SOLD
'01 S430 260,000km (161k mi) SOLD
'03 SL500 167,000km (104k mi) SOLD
'07 S550 4MATIC 235,000km (146k mi) SOLD
'07 GL320 CDI 4MATIC 348,000km (215k mi)
'13 GL350 BlueTec 4MATIC 170,000km (105k mi)
'14 SL550 72,000km (43k mi)

Oreo, try an easy-out(EZ-out).

__________________
Fred Hoelzle

i've had plenty of luck just bashing the bolthead with a hammer. this distorts the head and shrinks the striped diameter hole. I have either used the correct hex key or a torx that had to be hammered into the hole. the hammering breaks the bolt loose. this is useful if there is not enough clearance for a vice grip. etc.

bash it!

Great suggestions everyone. You can combine most of these techniques with a Hammer Drill or Pneumatic Impact Wrench/Ratchet. In my experience the way the force is applied with these tools reduces the rotational movement of the object in which the bolt is embedded and the extreme hammering breaks loose most stuck bolts whether they are stripped or not. For instance, I just removed a hex drive bolt that I had stripped with a hex socket. I hammered an oversized torx bit into the stripped hex drive bolt (thanks zaffo!)>attached the air ratchet and zzzzzip, it came off like it was never stuck. A bunch of the other screws were very tight and probably would also have stripped, so I removed them all with the impact ratchet/hex bit in no time flat

If you are reading this thread your bolt is probably already stripped so this advice may be too little, too late__but anytime you think your bolts are so tight that you are about to strip them, pull out the impact tools and the PB blaster. The right tools will save you tons of time and money. I am now waiting on a replacement bolt I had to order and cannot use my planer until it arrives-I shoulda used the impact ratchet to begin with


Monkey use wrong tool, oogah boogah! (there was no captain cave man icon)

Torx Bits are the ticket for those Alan head bolts that strip!

Been using these for a year or two with very good results. Same tool is sold as Ace and Sears brand Stripped Bolt remover sockets.

Don't have to pund 'em on, a simple TAP with the backside of the ratchet does it and the harder you torque, the deeper they bite. The outside is fitted for a Crescent or open end wrench as well.

Set of 10 covers 19mm to 5mm and fractional equivalents.

Trick with internal hex is the use a good penetrant and break the lock between the bolt head undreside and the surface. Also, using a socket hex driver after cleaning out the hole and tap the end with a small hammer should loosen the bond.

I have also had decent luck with a 12v electric impact drill with the clutch set to break away at the torque rating of the fastener location (you normnally torque it to 22 ft lbs or #%& newtons so set your clutch to break at 20 ft lbs-use a reverse fitting into your torque wrench with the wrench held in a vise to set the clutch-quick and dirty load cell idea). Usually works but access is a ***** sometimes and no body I know makes a 90 deg impact drill in 12V - the Dewalt is a plain jane drill but not impact/hammer.

Strinking trick is good but can soften the metal as well. Same goes for the Blue Tip Wench-Aluminum changes composition easily and lets not talk about toasting the steel/cast iron/alloy around the hole. Impagine torquing the new fastener up and then hearing the "crack" as the metal cracks at the heat affected zone border....

Internal hex can be pulled using a left handed reamer (BF Easy Out Made of Tool Steel) but again its easy to eff it up. Do not buy cheap tools for this- get B&S or Greenlee or Klein and a good tap handle to hold the bit.

I am sure this is not what you want to hear right now.

Good luck/

i feel your pain...

FWIW, get yourself a set of German Stahlwille allen/hex sockets. they are manufactured to closer tolerances than even the hyper expensive Snap-On sockets. i know this won't help your current situation but from personal experience, Stahlwille hex head sockets cannot be beat.

old mechanic's trick; put a little valve lapping compound into the hex head then insert said socket. the lapping compound will help the socket grip and provide an even tighter fit.

as far as your current situation, others have pretty much covered your options but do check out Stahlwille's stuff...

http://www.toolsource.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=stahlwille&x=0&y=0

__________________
W108
W116
FJ60