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#1
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Door panel wood molding
I noticed my wood panel on the drivers side door is somewhat loose, and rattles. Does anyone know what holds it in place? Also, on the '92 300E does anyone have a sequence of the procedure for removing the door panel? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, REbe |
#2
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I, too, have a rattle, apparently coming from the wood strip in the door. It happens on both sides (driver and front passenger). A match book stuck in the end seems to help, but...
A thorough explanation of interior door panel removal would be appreciated. (I know that I usually broke most of the clips when removing my BMW inner panel, and would like to know he procedure to do it right...) Car is w140 500sel. Thanks -David |
#3
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Dr. Greg just posted this today on W140 door panel removal (see door check DIY).
http://www.baxnet.net/merc/
__________________
The Golden Rule 1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later) |
#4
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door panel removal on 92 300E
Thanks for posting the thread. My model is the 300E and seems to be somewhat different from that. Does anyone know if you have to take the door panel off to adjust the wood trim or is it just hooked from the face of the panel? I was wanting to know if you have to remove the seat switches and the rear view mirror handle etc. to remove the door panel. Thanks
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#5
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To answer your question, yes.
The wood door trim is held in place my (four or five 7mm?) hex nuts and serrated washers. These are on the inside of the panel, so you do have to remove the panel to get to them. I have had to do some servicing at the doors for other issues in the past, so I went ahead and tightened all of them while I had the panels removed. Mine did rattle prior to doing this. There are more detailed threads on how to do this, but here's a quick idea: Remove the black plastic door handle pieces first. Actually, the electric seat switch knobs, then the door handle bezels. All of them should come out with a gentle tug, but the two-piece bezels are joined together at a point. Either way, still use gentle force. The piece behind the handle sits on a lip around the door panel, and you can just move it out of the way. Total removal is easier in the long run, but you may not have to do that. The little panel piece by the outside mirror has to come off too. With MBs, the rule of thumb is pull UP, then OUT! MB uses upside-down "J" configuration hooks, so pulling out (like in GM cars) will do permanent damage. Don't forget to remove the plastic cover by the door latch at the jamb. There are wire attachments for the courtesy light, but you don't have to remove the wires or light since you are just tightening the wood trim. The plastic water sheeting might come off with the panel as well, so make sure you glue this back on...rubber cement or 3M spray adhesive works fine. The other panels in the car come off in pretty much the same manner...good luck!
__________________
2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle 2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car 2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver 2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car |
#6
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driver's door panel removal
G-Benz we do appreciate the help there...I am more confident that I might be able to pull off a DIY here now!! I will wait now for the next warm day and go4it. Many thanks!!
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#7
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Loose Wood...
Rebe -
Not clear from your post if the wood is separating from the aluminum form or the whole trim piece is loose. If the wood is separating from the aluminum, the glue has failed. This happened on my 280SEL ('84) - I removed door panel, removed trim from panel (the little plastic nuts mentioned earlier) then reglued (using clamps) with Gorila glue. Kevin |
#8
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wood trim
I don't see any aluminum, but the only thing is the wood trim there seems to have gotten loose. I don't know if it's from the speaker in the door vibrating or what. The radio makes it vibrate, also. I am still uncertain if you have to remove the rear view mirror handle and that cover around it to get the door panel off or not?
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#9
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Quote:
__________________
2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle 2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car 2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver 2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car |
#10
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The hardest part is the seat control panel, It is held in place by two swiveling arms in the rear and a spring in the front. By sliding a feeler guage along the back the two little srms are rotated out of the way and the panel pivots out. There is a screw behind it, there are also screws in the door pocket under plugs (500 sel), The mirror triangle comes off, work all the way around on the fasteners, of course disconnect the wires to the various items. The panel slides up and off, its really a three handed job. The trim is held by nuts, and the door lock cable has to be unhooked
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