Nope, MAS unit not eliminated. My '92 124 certainly has one, as I had it replaced.

Steve

Actually it was eliminated, but the 124 is the first chassis that I have seen from MB that had continous design changes over the course of the model run. If you have an early 89, you will have two decorative strips on the door. If you have a late 89, you will have a solid decorative panel. You can't swap wiper blades from an early and late 124, because the blades are offset by about 30mm. If you have an early 89, you will have light off cats below the headers, late ones don't. This is true of Calif. versions at least. I'm not sure about 49 state cars. Up to about 90, you have to pull the ash tray out. After that it operates like a viscous clutch. Modes up to 90 have the standard door locking system. 90 and newer allows you to close the sunroof and windows while locking the car by holding the key in the lock position while everything closes up. 90 and up had decorative wood strips along all the doors. I have an 86, an 87, an 89, and a 90. I'm amazed at the design changes in the car. I have never seen this many changes in any model in the 30 years I've been an MB mechanic. The only other model to make changes was the 123, but that was a one time thing. In 83 the 123 was upgraded with electric right side mirror, lighted sunvisor mirrors, velour carpeting, and roof strips and stiffening in the wagon version.

Peter

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Auto Zentral Ltd.

Can anyone verify that theirs does this? I have a 1991 300E. I'll check again when I go out for lunch, but I'm pretty sure this is not the case...

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08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

I hereby verify that my '90 and '91 300Es both do this.

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2012 E350
2006 Callaway SC560

I just went out and tried it - it works!!! I never knew... This is cool. Any other "hidden" features I might not know about?

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08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

Hello I have a 1987 300E


I am also having trouble physical seating the fuel pump relay and the climate control relay down in their sockets. They are located side by side next to each other. On the sides of the relays towards the bottoms of them there are slight tangs that stick out from the longer sides of the relay case. It seems like the tangs of both the fuel pump relay and the climate control relay are fighting each other and keeping them from fully being seated.

I am thinking of taking a utility knife to one of the tangs on one of the relays and shaving it off.

Ideas?

Carefully check the relays for bent pins and the receptacles for any debris or damage.

I just removed my FPR a couple of weeks ago following a no-start condition. I did a careful inspection, but found no obvious issues, so I cleaned the pins with electrical contact cleaner... reinstalled the relay and it started right up.

I documented the above in the following thread:

Sometimes I call it the "Mercurial-Benz"

Duke

thanks for the post.

I removed both relays and the pins are straight and they are not discolored. I took a small wire brush to the pins and then sprayed the pins with deoxit.

The issue I am having is the physical contact of the tangs on the sides of the relays, in particular the two tangs on the sides where the climate relay and fuel pump relay are side by side. If both relays are removed, the fist one in seats fully but then when the second relay is installed the tang from relay being installed next hits the tang of the relay that is already installed, this keeps the second relay from being fully seated.

ideas?

The only thing I can think of is that you might have an incorrect relay... physically larger than original, but maybe functionally correct???

If all else fails I don't think filing or cutting off the interfering retention tangs will cause any problems. The pins themselves should hold the relays in place, and they make removing the relays a PiA.

A couple of years ago I tried to remove the FP relay to inspect when I was having starting problems. I used a couple of small putty knives to carefully pry the tang slots back, so the tangs would clear, but it wouldn't budge. I recall even starting a thread here asking if anyone knew how to get the damned thing out and got no response.

It turned out the problem was the due to an internal leak in the fuel accumulator that was shorting fuel back to the inlet hose from the tank, which prevented proper fuel pressure from building up at the regulator, so no big deal.

For whatever reason, it came out came out last month without much effort.

Duke