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  #1  
Old 03-15-2005, 06:46 PM
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Brake pad squeal

I just changed the rear brake pads on my 1979 450SL. I used after market pads, cost $28. Also installed new anti-rattle springs. Brakes work fine but squeal when braking in forward and reverse. Removed pads and coated metal backs with Disc Brake Quiet gunk I purchased at NAPA. Brakes were quiet for a short time then started to squeal again. Removed the pads again, scraped off the old gunk and put on a heavier coat of the same stuff. Brakes again were quiet for awhile then started squealing again. Is there any way to stop this squealing short of replacing pads with Merc. Benz Original equipment pads?

Last edited by Ramrod; 03-15-2005 at 06:56 PM.
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  #2  
Old 03-15-2005, 06:56 PM
Ta ra ra boom de ay
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,915
Whats the condition of your rotors?
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1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html
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  #3  
Old 03-15-2005, 07:03 PM
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Brake Pad Squeal

Vehicle odometer reads 82k but I cant be sure that is the original mileage. Rotors look ok but I have not measured the thickness of the rotors. The pads I replaced were original equipment and would have lasted at least another 10k miles estimated.
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  #4  
Old 03-15-2005, 07:20 PM
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You can try the MB brake pad paste. Sometimes that stops it. While you have the pads off to apply it, measure your rotors to make sure they are within spec.

Len
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  #5  
Old 03-15-2005, 07:36 PM
Ta ra ra boom de ay
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Pittsburgh
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OEM pads (non metalic) are generally quieter than metalics and other compounds. The Mercedes brake systems are somewhat sensitive to non spec materials... probably best to go with OEM or Balo rotors and Textar pads. Sometimes the squeal will fade away and some squeal problems just can't be worked out any way but new spec parts. Till then just live with it... takes a little luster off an SL but at least the bumper won't get crumppeled.
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-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html
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  #6  
Old 03-15-2005, 08:32 PM
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Question: Did you coat the edges of the pads? That is where most of the friction occurs during braking as it rides against the calipers. True they say to put some on the back where the piston rides but there are anti-squeal plates available for that purpose and will probably last much longer.
I always do the edge treatment like this:
First, while the pads are out I run a small round wire brush in there to remove all the brake dust that accumulates (avoid hitting the piston seals). A wire brush designed for use in preparing 1/2 in copper pipes before soldering fits nicely.
Then dab some anti-sieze on the top and bottom edges of the backing plates (wear eye protection and do NOT run your eyes until you are free of the stuff!).
Also slightly bevelling the very edge of the brake pads using a grinding wheel or a flat file seems to reduce the squealing some pads make. Rears always seem to squeal - especially with Pagid and some Metal Masters (the latter should be banned!)
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  #7  
Old 03-15-2005, 08:38 PM
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I use the very same method.
Works every time.
FWIW. brakesqueal is always caused by the pads vibrating in the caliper.
I also subscribe to the "chamfer "method.
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  #8  
Old 03-17-2005, 08:02 AM
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Chamfer

I don't mind chamfering the pads but only when I install them onto old rotors. If you do it with new discs it can upset the wear of the disc and cause it to lip prematurely. The reason for chamfering new pads is to prevent the lip on the old discs rubbing before the rest of the pad hits the disc which can cause squealing.
I'd probably measure the discs and machine them if possible.
And I'd only use genuine pads.
I put ATE discs and pads in the 300e once and they turned blue from normal use!! Worse than that they caused the grease in the bearings to melt and seep out thought the end caps. Luckily I caught it in time, regreased the bearings and threw out the ATE's in favour of genuine parts.
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  #9  
Old 03-17-2005, 12:40 PM
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Cool Brake Squeal

Thanks everybody for all the tips. I will follow deiseldiehard suggestions and hopefully will be able to brake the old SL without being embarrassed.
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  #10  
Old 03-17-2005, 01:13 PM
Letsroll
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 20
Squeal

I replaced every item, Balo rotors, PAGID deluxe pads, anti-squeal...and yet it continued to squeal, My problem was the spring clips holding the pads. I put new ones in and cured the problem.

94 E320
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  #11  
Old 03-17-2005, 01:29 PM
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I went thru this on mine a few yrs. ago. Replaced several sets of rotors for runout issues and several sets of pads for squealing issues. Did the paste thing as I've always done with other cars.

In the end, the solution was to buy a set of MB dealer pads. I realize they may be made by Jurid, Pagid, etc. on any given day, but that's what did it for me.

I will never use anything else.

My 2 cents
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  #12  
Old 03-17-2005, 03:17 PM
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Use only MB brake pad gunk. Cheap and works. I like to chamfer th edges as well
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