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#1
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i've waited two years for this!
well, it's almost time for me to 'awaken the beast'.i haven't had the car running for about 2 yrs.changed the oil before i 'stored ' it but haven't done anything since(other than to pump up the tires to the max from time to time).
does anyone have any helpfull ideas prior and right after starting ie.priming the engine--can you prime an s500? any help is greatly appreciated.
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'95 s500 (bought for wife but can't bear to share!!!) 125kms '92 legend 180kms '88 tbirdturbo(fantastic car-only regular maint.)120kms '87 mustang gt(gone) '86 tbirdturbo(gone) '85 mustang gt(gone-but not forgotten) |
#2
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You might want consider siphoning the tank and filling up with fresh gas.
This isn't really my thing (no experience with stored cars), it might not be a problem, but I don't thing gas is supposed to sit that long. That could be a lot of gas to drain though. You might want to consider, flush and or drain and fill of all fluids. Oil, coolant, brake, PS, and tranny in roughly that order. Through in some Techron and take it out for a 300 mile break in run, and change the oil again sooner than normal maybe at 1000 miles. I'm sure someone will chime in to correct me or add something though. Good luck and enjoy.
__________________
-Marty 1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible (Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one) Reading your M103 duty cycle: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html |
#3
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Did you fill the fuel tank before you stored it? Was it stored inside? If so, and you live in a cold cliimate the fuel is probably okay. You can remove the cap and smell it. If it doesn't smell stale, it's okay.
If the fuel tank was not full the chance of condensed moisture is much higher, especially if it was not stored inside, and I would recommend siphoning all the old fuel and replacing it with fresh fuel. Check all the fluids, air the tires, install a fresh battery, and crank it to life. After you get it running you should change the brake fluid and antifreeze. Duke |
#4
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Stored Where? Inside or out? What temp ranges?
Hello.
If the car was indoors where the temp changes were not extreme or fast changing all the oils will most likely be O.K., Look at the dip sticks. Any off color foaminess at the top of the stick may mean she has taken on moisture from heating and cooling during the cold periods. Then you need to change the oils first. The previous response is correct, cut the interval to change oil and filters way down like 300 to 500 miles for the first round some moisture will be in there somewhere regardless. Gas is a bit old but if you can dilute it with fresh by at least 2 to 1 should run O.K., but performance will be down a bit during that tank. Best to take it easy for that tank any ways, shake out runs you need more eyeball and ear than foot. MB say's change brake fluid yearly, might be recommended. But keep in mind, that's often autobahn recommendations. No Speed Limit means error to caution on maintenance. I have never followed that in the U.S., never had a brake problem except pad replacements. Look over your rubber good. Vac Lines, but especially hoses, save a head kill a hose! Slightest cracks will be breaks under pressure when old and stale. I have stored a number of collectibles. I pull the coil wire and crank it a bit first to get oil back into the galleries and journals. Not long just to give it a head start. Let it idle to full warm up NO heavy RPM's until it heats and cools at least once. Then look close for leaks when restarted, valve covers, pan, hoses etc,. Storage can cause gasket shrinkage. Then normal metal shrink and grow will amplify that. May need to gently re-tighten some things like valve covers. Be gentle until she gets back to life. Enjoy, with caution! |
#5
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STOP
STOP STOP You will first want to take out all the plugs. Spray either WD-40 or marvel mistery oil in all the cylinders.... aka spark plug holes and let sit a day or so. Dont be bashful with the coating, but dont make a pond. It will burn this off within a minute. The rings can be goobered up and will score the cylinder walls. This will help eliminate that. Drain a quart of oil from the pan, and add a quart of new oil to the normal fill, at least lubing that cam. ..... then proceed with the others comments, add techron, check the other fluids. Start and let idle for 5mins, slowly take around the block and listen & watch gauges. Thermostat can get stuck closed. If the temp climbs to high, shut off immediately & let cool. I would only put 500 miles on it before changing the oil. good luck & listen to her. |
#6
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Ken_xman is correct!
Ken_Xman is correct it can't hurt to give the rings a film to ride on at the start up.
If moisture got into the cylinders it will help a great deal! |
#7
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thanks so much for replies
i have stored it indoors for the whole time and did change oil prior to storing(i should say at the time i was just parking it but then-slowly- it became a storage situation).tank was 3/4 full of premium.great tip with the wd-40 and putting oil over the cams.
any more help is greatly appreciated!
__________________
'95 s500 (bought for wife but can't bear to share!!!) 125kms '92 legend 180kms '88 tbirdturbo(fantastic car-only regular maint.)120kms '87 mustang gt(gone) '86 tbirdturbo(gone) '85 mustang gt(gone-but not forgotten) |
#8
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You should be ready to go for it.
If you follow the previous advice, you should be ready. Might want to charge the battery if you have a charger to get a good crank and hot spark.
Remember, starting it only begins the process. Be a bit cautious for the first couple of restarts and cool offs, look under and around! Enjoy!! |
#9
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i was at our local auto shop and noticed they had a 'fogging oil ' spray.now i think this is MEANT for storage of an engine but my question is : what would be better on start-up...wd40 or this fogging oilspray?
__________________
'95 s500 (bought for wife but can't bear to share!!!) 125kms '92 legend 180kms '88 tbirdturbo(fantastic car-only regular maint.)120kms '87 mustang gt(gone) '86 tbirdturbo(gone) '85 mustang gt(gone-but not forgotten) |
#10
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WD40 is junk, use a real oil. Fogging oil is ment for storing cars but I would still use it over WD40.
Take out the spark plugs and shoot some Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders. Also did you put a fuel stabilizer in? After two years the fuel is going to be junk. I would top off with some premium and put a bunch of octane booster in their. Follow the advice above, I would expect to change most of the fluids and filters. The coolant and brake fluid are due.
__________________
1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#11
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thanks hat!,
i cannot get marvel oil here but i have bought a couple of bottles of fuel injector cleaner and gas treatment.i looked into buying octane booster and thought i would but when i read the back of the bottle i got the impression it wouldn't raise my octane level.when i put gas in it's always premium which has an octane number of at least 92.would octane booster still hellp this?
__________________
'95 s500 (bought for wife but can't bear to share!!!) 125kms '92 legend 180kms '88 tbirdturbo(fantastic car-only regular maint.)120kms '87 mustang gt(gone) '86 tbirdturbo(gone) '85 mustang gt(gone-but not forgotten) |
#12
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Up here in New England we need to store our boats most of the winter, usually from November to May. I know in just those 7 months mid grade gas will degrade almost to the point of it being useless. The engine will ping with it and if the tanks were not full their will be water in the fuel.
I would load it with dry gas and any octane booster you can find. It may have been 93 when you bought it isn't anymore. In the future use Store N Start or another type of fuel stabilizer. I have seen 10+ year old gas turn to a varnish like substance!
__________________
1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
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