I have a 92 300e that creaks and moans on the front left corner. I want to replace the ball joints. What's the best way to get the old ones out? Do I need to get a special MB puller, or can I use the generic pickle-fork style? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. While I've got it apart, is there anything else I should replace?

Thanks,
Robert

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89 300te 222,222
92 300e 190,000

Absolutely, but maybe your first step should be a diagnosis of what is wrong.
Should be very cheap to have a shop take a look, before you start throwing parts at the problem.

I recently had some work done on my '92 300E with 219,000 miles on it.
I had changed the shocks and struts with front mounts about 25,000 miles ago. I knew I had a couple of cracked tie rod end seals. I went ahead and replaced all three tierods and the idler arm bushing. Then I took it too my Indy who diagnosed two bad ball joints. I could not have justified the time necessary to do that nasty job myself. It was very reasonable.

He also checked and replace the differential pinion seal, differential bearings, but pronounce the rear links as OK.

At 190K miles most things rubber are approaching the end of their useful life.

Steve

You can use a pickel fork to seperate the ball joint but you will need a ball joint press to push it out of the lower control arm. Chain the spring through the control arm when you do this.

Jorg

Okay, If I separate the ball joint with the pickle fork can I just pound it out with hammar or an air hammar (assuming the lower control arm and chassis are resting on blocks and I've chained up the spring as a safety)?

What's the right size for the ball joint press (is it special or will any old ball-joint press work?)


Thanks,
Robert

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89 300te 222,222
92 300e 190,000

I've heard of people pounding it out so you may be able to do it. I've used a 4x4 ball joint press, nothing special at all. I'f I recall correctly you use the 2" adapter.

Jorg

Harbor Freight has a decent ball joint press that should work well.

I've not read the CD yet, but will be doing this soon myself, and figure this is how it works:

Put a jack stand under the control arm and set the car down on it, else the spring can fly out. Not funny, it will likely kill you if it hits you.

The steering knuckle is held on by a clamp bolt on the W124, should pry off easily once the bolt is out (remove completely). Remove the top strut nut (7mm allen counterhold) then unbolt and remove strut, then pull steering knuckle upward.

Press old joint out, new one in, re-install the steering knuckle, clamp bolt, and strut.

Get a new set of strut boots while you are at it, and if the upper strut mount has any cracks in the rubber, replace them while you have the strut out, much easier.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Thanks for the tips. I'll check out harbor freight, and I'll get some new boots for the struts. I just did the struts on my other 300te and I rested the chassis and the lower control arms on blocks. It worked well. The biggest trouble was that the strut with the allen nut is an unusual size (who would have thought 7mm is odd). The compressed spring is definately something to respect. I'll have mine chained up when I'm hammering away on the ball joint! Also, torquing the bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle was a bit awkward.

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89 300te 222,222
92 300e 190,000

I didn't have to remove the strut. It is quite flexible at the top mount so I just tied it out of the way.

Jorg

to diagnose ball joint, spray some silicone spray lube all over it and work it in by turning steering wheel side to side. if the squeak goes away ball joint is source of squeak and bad. just had mine replaced by indep mb mechanic as I didn't want to mess with it.

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2005 Mercedes C230k sport sedan, 6 speed
1987 Porsche 924S - 968-engined track car

Removing the balljoint is easy with a big hammer once you have it in a vice. Presses are a waste of time and money for this. You cannot use a pickle fork.

Big hammer driving 1.5 inch steel pipe coupling to install.

The hard part of this job is compressing the spring so that you can take it apart. I won't get into this again because there is so much debate about what is safe and what is not, and folks have devised many creative ways to avoid needing the special $800 tool in the archives.

Suggest replacing the CA bushings and eccentric bolts at the same time. Whole assembly should be good for 150k more miles that way.

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1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi.

I don't understand. This is what a balljoint press is made for. No need to compress the spring and remove the control arm.

Jorg

It is possible to R&R with CA still on car. Removal can still be done with a hammer, but install can be a pain. It is much easier to do the work on bench, particularly for install steps. Plus, there is a good chance that the CA bushings are shot by the time the balljoint gives up, or that they will wear out before the new balljoint does.

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1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi.

I made a tiny slice in the top of the ball joint boot and injected some 30 weight oil in. The squeek immediately stopped, and it seems like R&R on ball joints is wise. I ordered the ball joint press from Harbor Freight. Seems like pounding them out is fine, but I'll still need the press to get them back in.

Does replacing the eccentrics and bushings mean removing the lower control arm?

Thanks again for all the advice

Robert

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89 300te 222,222
92 300e 190,000

The balljoint press comes with multiple adapters. The one that's the right size should be notched to fit the control arm better. I used mine as is, but will modify a piece of pipe and use it instead next time as I want to keep all my adapters stock for other vehicles.

Jorg