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  #1  
Old 03-23-2005, 09:41 PM
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Ignition tumbler removal 95 W140

Well I need your help again. My ignition is showing its age and twice now it has been a fight to get the key to move past the "0" position.

I've researched the archives, and cannot find any information on how to remove the tumbler specific to the W140 body. Lots of information on the E and C classes.

At this stage, I have successfully removed the plastic housing but am left with a 1-1/2" hole with the ignition switch bouncing around in it. I have the dealer's universal unit in my hands to compare against, but there seems to be a plastic or steel boot wrapped around the ignition switch/tumber assembly. I can't seem to locate any holes in the boot that would allow me to get to the tumbler release latch. It also appears that I have to remove the key to seperate the boot from the assembly.

I need the geniuses of the board to assist.

Thanks

Ron

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1995 E320 -171k-km
1995 S420 -333k-km
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  #2  
Old 03-24-2005, 02:15 AM
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Location: Renton, WA
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The ignition tumbler on 140's and 129's are not designed to be replaced. The black metal sleeve that is encasing the tumbler does not have release holes like a 124, 201, 126 etc...it's a one-time deal. Once it's installed it won't come off unless you grind it or cut it off. Not the best idea for maintenance, but excellent for theft prevention. Unless you want to cut the sleeve off, you will need the ignition switch/steering lock assy along with a new sleeve and tumbler to repair it correctly. Good luck.
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  #3  
Old 03-27-2005, 11:45 AM
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If you send me your email address I will email the video on how to remove the tumbler on the 129/140 chassis. It is not easy but can be done.
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Old 03-27-2005, 11:48 AM
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Eeek, that is a 10 mb file. I will put on the website and direct you to the link. Just a second.
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  #5  
Old 03-27-2005, 12:04 PM
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The video on how to remove the ignition switch is on the website at www.mbca.org/northtexas and on the far left bottom is repair videos, click there and then you will see the link for the video, be patient, it is a 10 mb file. If you or others find this useful I will post other videos. Good luck!
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  #6  
Old 03-28-2005, 07:04 AM
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Great video

Great video about the switch removal. Sure makes it easy when the dash isn't there though. Regardless, it does help.

Thanks for the link

Ron
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1995 E320 -171k-km
1995 S420 -333k-km
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  #7  
Old 03-28-2005, 08:15 AM
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I saw a service bulletin that the cylinder can only be removed in position 1, with a thin wire used to release the catch, and pull out the cyliner. The replacement is also installed in position 1
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  #8  
Old 03-28-2005, 08:18 AM
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Peter:

Trust me when I say its not as simple as that on the W140 or W129's. I'm personally not looking forward to locking the steering column in place by accident when I attempt the replacement.

Ron
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  #9  
Old 03-28-2005, 09:36 AM
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Remove the Dash?

Do you want me to post the video on how to remove the dash? ha ha.. It is a lot of work, but when you know what you are doing it sure makes it a lot easier. I repaired my passenger seat in my 129 on Friday and if I didn't have the instructions I sure would not have been able to do it because those seats in that car are really something, I think they weigh 500 lbs and they are held in with 8 bolts, you have to remove the cushions to get at them, I would have never figured that out on my own. I think in the video it shows you how to remove the electrical part of the switch and the locking mechanism, do you have to replace the locking mechanism too? If you just have to replace the electrical part that will be a lot easier, although there is nothing easy about a 140, they are wonderful beuatiful cars with more stuff in them than you will ever need, but working on them ain't fun! Take care and talk at you all later!
Brian
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  #10  
Old 03-28-2005, 09:46 AM
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Removal

WIS shows the procedure to remove the assembly without having to remove most of the dash, mostly just the knee bolster under the steering wheel. The pitfalls appear to be with the steering wheel locking mechanism, should it lock up with the ignition removed, I don't know if it can be returned to the open (moving) position without using explosives.

Removing the dash at this stage is not an option. Compounding the problem is that if the ignition switch uses a 14 pin connector I can just replace the ignition switch proper (P/N 140 460 09 04). However, if it has the older 12 pin connector, it will need to have the steering lock completely replaced....very confusing. Now add to the confusion the connector change over.....It keeps getting worse.....

I wonder how long the battery will last with the key in the "1" position.

Ron
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1995 E320 -171k-km
1995 S420 -333k-km
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  #11  
Old 03-28-2005, 09:51 AM
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Ron,
I think that battery drain is the least of your problems ha ha, wow, that seems like a really complicated mess. I have heard that the ignition switches in these cars go out after so many years, I have a 1996, so I am sure I am not far behind you. I wish you luck! let us know how it turns out.
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  #12  
Old 03-28-2005, 04:33 PM
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Location: Fort Worth
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Great video! There also was a video (VHS) that showed how to replace the evaporator. I was not smart enough though, at that time to bookmark the location.

Cheers,
Steve
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  #13  
Old 03-28-2005, 09:20 PM
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SteveUrban

Are you smart enough now to know where the video for evaporator removal is located....I know I will have to tackle that job in the near future.

Ron
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1995 E320 -171k-km
1995 S420 -333k-km
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  #14  
Old 03-28-2005, 11:07 PM
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No, not yet. I still search for it though from time to time. I am hoping that the evap in my 140 lasts as long as the one I had in the 124. If I find it, I will let everyone know.

Cheers,
Steve
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92 300CE 150Kmi. Sold
89 F250 Diesel 220Kmi. Dead
98 GMC 1500 160K.
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  #15  
Old 03-30-2005, 07:07 PM
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Closing off the thread

I successfully r&r'd the ignition switch assembly today. All in all it took about 3 hrs from start dissassembly until wrapped up. Not difficult but if anyone else is attempting this procedure on the W140, a thought a couple of procedure changes to what is said in WIS would be helpful.

1) On reassembly, trying to connect the parking selector cable with the switch in place was a pain. Couldn't get it to mesh due to the confining space. I found you can connect the parking cable assembly to the ignition switch module below the dash area and then insert the ignition assembly onto the steering wheel lock after.

2) Really double check that the key is in the #1 postion before seperating anything. G*d help you if it isn't.

3) I found I didn't have to disconnect/remove the original steering lock assemble. All I had to replace was the ignition switch, tumbler and locking steel cap (over the tumbler). You don't need to replace the steel cap, just break up the original switch assembly and reuse.

Total cost was about $400 CAD.

Tower

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