Stalling Problem 1988 300E HELP ME ??
 

I Look For Help On This Please Anyone
Anyway I Got A 1988 300E It Has a 6 Cylender.It Has Around 85 Thousand Miles..Ive Had This Car For 4 Years Now..No Probems ..Now I Do ..I Was Driving It For About 10 - 15 Mins Then It Stalled i Pulled Over And Tryed To Start It Turned Over But Nothing..Then About 10 to 15 mins later It Started And Ran Great Again..A few Days Later The Same Thing happed Stalled And Started 10 to 15 min Later..Im in Canada And Parked It for The Winter Mounths..I Went Out And Started It After 3 Mounths It Started Right Away..I Let It Idle And Then It Warm Up It Just Quite On Me I Tryed Starting It Again Turned Over But Nothing So I Let It Tell The Next Day..It Started Great Again The Next Morning And After It Warmed Up It Died Again And Would not Start :pukeface: ..I Stoped It A MERCEDES BENZ Dealer And The Shop Formen Had No Idel What Is Wrong.. :confused:
Can Anyone Help Me With This Problem That Would Be Great Thxs For reading

I have the exact same problem. Still searching for the answer!

Suspect fuel pump or relay.

If you jump pins 7 & 8 at the relay block, that will emulate the relay on condition. The fuel pumps should remain on continuously, and you should be able to feel them running with your hand.

ignition module
 

on my 1988 300SE I was also experiencing similar problem, where it stalls at a traffic light, but starts again, after changing several parts that were not really bad like crank position sensor, coolant temp sensor, I made sure that the relays were working ok, fuel was getting delivered to fuel distributor.
the only thing that was left was spark. Initially I was getting spark when testing for it, but then I was not getting any. I replaced the coil and still no start, then after trying many tests to check relays, ovp relay etc, I was suspecting that the ignition module is the culprit. ordered a used one from a salvage yard, and after one crank it started again. I am not sure if a weak coil cause the ignition module to go bad or a bad ignition module causes coil to go bad, but in my case both were bad, and they must go bad gradually to the point where the car is parked and no matter how much you crank you have no start. now mine starts after one crank.

1988 300SE
1985 Peugeot 505GL
1999 Grand Cherokee

Since it seems to happen after the engine is warm I strongly suggest checking out the fuel pump relay, here is why....

As the metal contacts age in the relay they begin to form circular cracks in the solder joints.

As the relay gets warmer and hotter, from engine heat and the electricity passing through it, the metal expands..

If the relay has severe cracks, when it gets hot enough, it will no longer allow power to pass through it...

When it is given enough time to cool off, the solder joints contract again and an electrical connection is reestablished. Then you car works again! YAY!

Check your spark after car stalls. Pull one of the spark plug wires to check. Be careful though use plyers with good isolation so you wont get shock. (it happens to me all the time) Hold it like 1/2 inch away from engine block or any good ground. It you have spark then check fuel. I had many cars. Im like street mechanic so I had cars with stalling problems and the way i was checking for fuel on the street is to crank it couple of times car wont start but there will be strong fuel smell out the exhaust. If you cant tell for sure then youll need to take off main fuel line off fuel pressure regulator put it in the bucket and put car into ignition (dont start) and see if fuel flows.
You defenatly have one of these problems because your car doesnt have complicated fuel injection system. I would check spark and fuel and take it further after those tests done. Good luck