It is getting close to decision time - within the next 2000 miles the rotors and pads will need replacing on my 300E Sportline. I have read lots of posts about upgrading to late model 400E rotors and calipers, or just using slotted rotors, or just cross-drilled, or cross drilled, slotted, and low temp treated, or any of the above but with different pad materials.

Let me summarize what I think I have learned from the previous posts:

The 400E calipers and rotors will do the most braking improvement, but at the most cost, and with some question about a tight fit under the 15" wheels, cooling issues, and possibly master cylinder issues as well. The cost might be reduced by going with KB remanufactured MB calipers, but no one on the forum seems to have had any experience with them.

The cross drilled may or may not increase cooling or braking, may or may not loose braking because of loss of swept area, and may or may not be prone to fractures or cracking.

The slotted may not increase cooling, may decrease pad float under real hard braking, but may be pretty noisey.

The non OEM pads may improve braking, probably will decrease brake dust, but usually at the expense of rotors and increased noise, and possibly may not be as good in wet conditions.

One proposal was to keep the stock pads and rotors, and put the money into better vented, 16" wheels.

I occasionally drive relatively deep into the corners, and enjoy twisty mountain roads, and may get back into autocross events in the future. I am looking for the best bang for the buck in quiet, low fade braking, and would appreciate input from people who have tried any brake improvements. (Sorry, can't afford 6 piston calipers, composite/kevlar pads, and ceramic disks ;) ).

Any real world upgrades and experiences out there to help the decision process?



[Edited by JCE on 12-20-2000 at 01:09 AM]

JCE,

Have you found your brakes to be inadequate, or are you just wanting something better?

My 300E brakes have been incredible, and I have done some high spirited driving in the past.

I think that your best course of action is to measure the rotors to see that they are within spec. and replace the pads with good quality pads, and enjoy your car.

In Autocross, you don't go into enough corners in the course of a run to build up much heat. If you were road racing lap after lap, I could see where this would be a concern.

If you have driven the car sufficiently hard that you have found a shortcoming in the brakes, I'm anxious to hear about it, and your ultimate solution.

Good luck and Merry Christmas,

Hi Larry:

The brakes are generally very good performers. Right now the pads and the rotors are at the bottom end of specs, doing some growling and a little squealing. Most of the "problem" I see is after a spirited dash across 25 miles of mountain and canyon roads - staying within the speed limits, but going deep and fast through the corners. Pretty juvenile, but there it is! The pedal feels a little soft at the end of this.
I have had all the brake hoses replaced, and maybe the new OEM rotors and pads will cure this. I'm just one of those obsessive-compulsives who is always looking for some way to improve things.
I considered the option of larger rims with better ventilation, but rather like keeping the stock look - 16" AMG monoblocks would be about as radical a look as I would want on the car.
Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah, Joyful Idul Fitri to all!

Excessive heat build-up & fluid boiling is the cause of low brake pedal. You might try ATE 200 or ATE blue brake fluid as the boiling point is 30C higher than stock fluid! Also w/stock brake pads the OE Textar are much better than the Pagid.