This 380 SE is turning out to be a tinkerers dream.

I just repaired the rear window regulator with junk drawer parts: a nylon roller, flanged bushing, and a 1/4-20 screw. The screw fits perfectly in the hole where the old rivet was and I didn't have to remove the mechanism.

The climate control sampler blower had dead spots and wouldn't always spin. I fixed by shaking out a bunch of dust that was in the motor housing, sprayed some brake cleaner inside, and lubed. Also vacuumed the dust out of the sensor on the roof.

I cured the door panel squeaks by using the lube that came with a Craftsman garage door opener repair kit. It came with a tube of Crisco-like paste for oiling the nylon gears. I rubbed a light coating on the door sills, and the noise is gone.

The stiff gas pedal was fixed by just moving the return spring (from underneath the car). The tang which the spring connects to has 2 holes. Using the hole closest to the firewall gives a more normal pedal feel.

I plan on doing the pool noodle seat spring repair very soon.

The only things I have spent money on so far is drive belts and some special size hoses on the engine.

I just love cheap repairs, especially now since I found out this car is worth all of $975 retail!

Current stumpers:

Do you have any hints on re-glueing the wood dash pieces that are separating and curling up? I tried the 2-sided trim adhesive tape and it held for about 10 seconds.

Also not sure yet what to do about the rear glass rust at the pinch seam. I'm thinking about just sealing the window with some black goop and hoping for the best.

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1985 380SE Blue/Blue - 230,000 miles
2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed
2005 Toyota Sienna
2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible
1999 Toyota Tacoma

For delaminating dash wood, use blocks of wood and a c-clamp to hold it fast while the glue is drying. I'm not sure which glue is best, probably a two-part epoxy.

For any good rust repair, all rust must be removed down to clean metal before repair. A dremel tool is useful for small spots.

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K

I've found Gorilla Glue to work great in gluing the wood veneer back to the aluminum form it is (supposed to be) attached to. It has worked great on the door panel and glove box trim pieces because I was able to completely disassemble those and do it on the bench (actually used those little black binder clips from the office as clamps). This was fortuitous because as I did so, the glue on most of the little wood blocks was giving up and the things were starting to give way at all glue points. I was able to "rebuild" the entire assy. - they should outlast me now.

If you're talking about the dash strips, I'm going to tackle one using a spreader clamp. Unless you're a masochist and want to take apart the dash, that's probably the way to go.

Gorilla is easier to work with than epoxy - be mindful that it expands BUT, not to worry, the expanded material trims right off easily after it is dry.

Kevin

The glovebox door looks easy enough. The rest of the dash pieces look like a problem, especially the right side that goes around the corner. I'm thinking I can prop sticks between the seatback and dash to apply pressure while drying.

Do they make different kinds of Gorilla glue, if so what is the best kind for this purpose?

As for rust, there are loose chips of rust falling from the slots forward of the trunk opening. Is this a sign of worse things inside? I'm seeing non-cheap repairs coming up...

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1985 380SE Blue/Blue - 230,000 miles
2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed
2005 Toyota Sienna
2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible
1999 Toyota Tacoma

It's difficult to properly tackle rust for the DIYer. If it's as bad as you describe, I'd be sandblasting the area to get ALL the rust out.

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K

No - just one kind (makes deciding easier doesn't it?)

Yes on applying pressure with "sticks" - you won't even need any real clamps if you have electric seats.

On your rust, I'm assuming you're talking about one of the W126 failings around the rear window. Sounds like you need to pull the window out to get to all of it. If you don't have total rust through/lack of structural material, clean up real good (wire brush, etc.) and prime & paint. I once used a "paint" on a metal toolbox that claims to interact with the iron oxide to create a new sealed surface. Toolbox is going strong.

If the value of the car is max $1000 in good condition, I don't believe you have much to lose by trying the repair yourself. If your screw it up royally, chop it and make a custom MB flat bed/pick up truck.... (did I say that?)

Have fun,
Kevin

Rust

If you are considering goop -- consider POR15

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David
1986 300E Anthracite + ECodes + MB Mileage Award

Sounds like Naval Jelly. POR is better.

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Norm in NJ
Next oil change at 230,000miles

Try krazy glue. it will dry while you hold it for about a minute. Holds well. Gorilla glue fine but needs clamping. good luck, Abe G

I thought of Crazy Glue but figured it might be affected by temperature changes/humidity. We have lots of both here in the Washington DC area. Has anyone else had success with Crazy Glue on warped dash pieces?

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1985 380SE Blue/Blue - 230,000 miles
2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed
2005 Toyota Sienna
2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible
1999 Toyota Tacoma