Hi folks. This is my first post here. What a GREAT forum!

I'd like some tips on performing a transmission service on an '85 (11/84) 300D-T. This is my mother's car, owned since new. I am a Toyota technician but I haven't ventured into working on the family's Mercedes-Benz cars all that much, aside from LOF and brake work.

1. Anything I need to look out for?

2. Can I drain the torque converter?

3. What type of fluid is recommended? Dexron I assume. Any specific brands I should use?

4. Any specific refill procedure needed?

5. How about adjustments? Are any adjustments needed when the filter and fluid are changed?

I have an OEM filter and gasket kit.

If there is anything else that comes to mind when performing this service, please let me know.

Thank you! :D

Jim Brink

Jim,
Welcome aboard and tell everyone you know that has a MB about this site.

I performed the transmission service on my '95 E320 this past summer. If yours is like mine (and I will make the assumption that it is) then yes, there is a drain plug in the torque converter. Climb underneath and rotate the engine until you see the drain plug. Remove it and let it drain. Remove the tranny pan, replace the filter (torque to spec) and put everything back together. Install new "crush rings" (gaskets) on the drain plugs and torque everything back to spec. Refill as follows - put four quarts of ATF in, crank and allow the engine to run for a few minutes while going from park to drive and back. Shut off the engine and add another quart. Continue to fill until you are at the appropriate level based in temperature. Take your time with the filling part and keep everything operating room clean. You do not want to overfill.

I am reciting this from memory so you may want to wait another couple of hours for a tech to verify this info.

I used Quaker State ATF that says on the bottle - for use in Daimler-Benz vehicles.

Jim
'95 E320
'97 Honda CRV

Just a couple points to further answer all your questions. There are no specific adjustments to be made and the 85 model has a much more stable vacuum control system, but, a proper maintenance would include verifying proper shift timing and strength. There are a world of adjustments available to correct shift timing and shift harshness. If after a test drive you think further adjustment is needed go through the archives, there has been a lot writen on the subject.

As to tightening the pan, the rubber gaskets need an appropriate amount of compression to do their job. If you look at the pan it is designed to be tightened metal to metal with this appropriate squish. Through many retorques the stop feature at each bolt becomes deformed causing increased force on the gasket when the pan is properly torqued. This causes the gaskets to be split (major leak) or to be nonuniformly tightened (minor leak). Its hard to tell about this without some experience, this is mainly a warning (explanation) to help if you wind up with a leak.

If I remember right (been a while since I have done this), the washers for the torque convertor and the transmission drain plugs are the same size, but you only get 1 washer in the kit. I would make sure you have two washers before you start.