I recently acquired my second MB, a 1995 E320 Wagon, and have some pending questions that I haven't seen commented anywhere else in this (most valuable!) newsgroup, so here they are:

* I have some rust around the jack holes (and possibly elsewhere on the rockers):
+ First of all I thought that the W124's didn't rust?!
+ Secondly I see some screws on the bottom letting me think that removing the rocker covers (to spread some POR-15 myself) is doable on the W124 (contrary to the W126): is this correct or just an impression?

* How long do the hydraulic suspension spheres in the back typically last?

* The accelerator seems both harder and less smooth / linear than on my 300SE: normal?

* To drive straight I have to turn the wheel off center to the left when driving on the right lane, and vice versa. This is like on my W126, but I thought it would have been addressed on the more modern model?

* The radio gets surprisingly hot after driving for a few hours: is this normal on this model?

* I only have sound from the front loudspeakers, even after trying to adjust the radio's "fader": is there e.g. another button somewhere?

* The lights under the rear doors don't come on when the doors are open: same question.

Thanks in advance!

__________________
1991 W126 300SE (M103)
1995 W124 E320 Wagon (M104)

The design of the accelerator causes this.

Mercedes designs have a life cycle of about 8 years. The suspension setup in the 86 W124 is the same as the 95 W124. Tracking is not very good in these cars, the recirculating-ball steering, and the inexpensive front strut suspension do not help either.

W124 rust like any other car if operated under severe conditions and not taken care of properly.

W210 rusts faster than some other cars.

Inefficiencies in Mercedes Engineering design and manufacturing process results in high costs and MB can charge a high premium for the preceived brand image.

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Zafar
94 E320 58000 Miles

I also have 1995 Wagon, let me say first thing you are one lucky guy - they are de biz.

The questions I can comment on:
- mine lives out doors is a daily driver and has always been since new (I know from the previous owner). The only rust anywhere I can see is underneath the hood on internally facing edges not viz from outside. I would say for a 10 year old thats pretty darned good.
- my steering is perfectly straight, no compensation req'd. Is it possible the steering wheel has be taken off and put back not TDC on the spline. Only takes a short time to take it off and adjust if this is the case.
- my radio stays cool . I wonder if there is hot air leaking from the heater box onto the back of the radio (just a wild guess).
- there are rear door speakers. They work on mine with the fader control as you would expect. If the radio has been replaced maybe they didnt wire them in.
- there is a switch on the dash which operates the rear interior lights (passenger and load space). It has two positions either : permanently on lights or one when rear doors are opened ( i do find this an annoying idea ie. I need to open a rear door to switch the load space lights on! - I am planning to leave it all switched permanently on and install switches actually on the light units so they can be operated locally which will be much more convenient)

Hope this helps
keith

* How long do the hydraulic suspension spheres in the back typically last?

If the roads you usually drive are well paved they should last about six to eight years. If not, they usually last from 3 to 5 years.

* The accelerator seems both harder and less smooth / linear than on my 300SE: normal?

All M.B. accelerators are hard and unsmooth.

* * The radio gets surprisingly hot after driving for a few hours: is this normal on this model?

Some radios do get unsually hot, sometimes they even fry themselves. It used to be pretty bad when Mercedes used Beckers. The new Panasonics (which is the one your car must have if it is the original, are much cooler).

* I only have sound from the front loudspeakers, even after trying to adjust the radio's "fader": is there e.g. another button somewhere?

There is a well known design flaw on the 124 T, the cables that enter both rear doors (and this will answer your next question) tend to get splashed by the B-pillar interior cover (which runs from the ceiling down to the floor). This will eventually render your rear speaker and rear door lights inoperable.

You must find where the cables were cut and fix them. Usually the when the cables get cut, a fuse inside the radio will blow out, so be prepared also to take out the radio and change this fuse before the rear speakers become operable again.



* The lights under the rear doors don't come on when the doors are open: same question.

Thanks in advance![/QUOTE]

__________________
A. Rosich
CL 500, 1998
S 500 L, 1998
E 320 T, 1995 [Sadly sold ]

Thank you all for your answers.

------------------------------
Here is the synthesis so far:

* How long do the hydraulic suspension spheres in the back typically last? They were original and so 10 years old on this car, so sounds like they needed to be replaced indeed...

* Hard and unlinear accelerator: Seems to be by design on this model then (even after Ditmire changed a roller and lubricated the linkages). BTW the accelerator on my W126 300SE is now perfectly smooth and linear, so it's not typical of all MBs, only of some models...

* Steering wheel not straight when going straight: It may be due to some typical, but fixable, play in the recirculating ball system then.

* The radio gets surprisingly hot after driving for a few hours: Possibly indeed due to "hot air leaking from the heater box onto the back of the radio"... I think I still have a Becker, and the Becker in my 300SE stays cool under all circumstances...

* I only have sound from the front loudspeakers: The radio is original, so maybe a cable or fuse problem indeed: Will look into both, thanks.

* The lights UNDER the rear doors don't come on when the doors are open: The lights ABOVE the second and third rows work just fine... Maybe also a cable problem, like for the rear loudspeakers.

------------------------------

Still interested in:

* I have some rust around the jack holes (and possibly elsewhere on the rockers):
+ First of all I thought that the W124's didn't rust?!
+ Secondly I see some screws on the bottom letting me think that removing the rocker covers (to spread some POR-15 myself) is doable on the W124 (contrary to the W126): is this correct or just an impression?

Thanks again.

__________________
1991 W126 300SE (M103)
1995 W124 E320 Wagon (M104)

The W124 will rust at the jack points all round if it has lived in one of the salt belt states. Or a place where salt is heavily used on the roads.
I think there was a thread about this somewhere. Mine has the same rust, some people have covered it up with the newer plastic cladding. I am now very vigilant in the winter about getting the salt off to slow the damage.

Jack Point Rust..solutions???

Thanks for the link "yal", sounds like POR-15 is a good choice indeed... However would still appreciate info. on how easy / difficult it is to remove the rocker covers on a 1995 W124. In particular if those screws on the underside make it as easy as it looks, or only deceptively so...

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1991 W126 300SE (M103)
1995 W124 E320 Wagon (M104)

Its pretty easy, however there are a few you wont be able to get to without removing the lower panels on the front fenders(not positive). Other than that they are easy to remove. Once you get all the screws off you will be able to tell where its still attached. I'll take a look at my car here in a bit as I just had the lowers painted body color.
Chris

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94 E320 with:
18" ///AMG Monoblock II's,AMG Gen II front bumper, H&R spings,500E sway bar, Bilstein sports, Eisemann Exhst, K&N,E500 Headlamps, Crystal Clear Corners, Avantgard Grill ...and more stuff to come! oh yeah 241k miles!!


My Car WOO HOO...... Now SOLD
New car.... 2001 Jaguar XJR!!!!

Thanks Chris, looking forward to your confirmation and details. Good news that removing the panels on the W124 doesn't seem to be an experts-only job as on the W126 (at least to the best of my knowledge so far)...

However I imagine that removing the lower panels on the front fenders is the same on both the W124 and W126, i.e. you just need to pull up and out?

Thanks again.

__________________
1991 W126 300SE (M103)
1995 W124 E320 Wagon (M104)

Is the road perfectly level? If it slopes (downward) to the right, it may be normal to steer left a bit to compensate; otherwise, the car will eventually drift downhill and hit the curb.

Thank you all again for your feedback so far. A couple more things I've noticed:

* Quite a bit of water is leaking into the trunk! Apparently through the tailgate's lower left corner. Is this another known issue, with a known solution?

* Contrary to the 300SE, the E320 doesn't stand still in slopes without breaking. Is this abnormal or a simplified design?

* More rust surprises: The front sway bars are covered with surface rust: Anything to worry about?

* The additional storage / console under the armrest doesn't close locked. This is the sliding "accordeon" wood trim. Is this yet another known issue, with a known solution too?

__________________
1991 W126 300SE (M103)
1995 W124 E320 Wagon (M104)

[QUOTE=sanchezc]Thank you all again for your feedback so far. A couple more things I've noticed:

* Quite a bit of water is leaking into the trunk! Apparently through the tailgate's lower left corner. Is this another known issue, with a known solution?



The rear cargo area side window rubber seals are famous (on all W123 and W124 wagons) for leakage, even if they look O.K., it is better to replace them. The rear window seal on the cargo gate also tends to fail often.

If the water were leaking on the right side, I will also suspect of the power antenna base, which also tends to filter water badly once it fails (and it does it constantly).

__________________
A. Rosich
CL 500, 1998
S 500 L, 1998
E 320 T, 1995 [Sadly sold ]

I saw your posting and I had the same problem with rust at the jack points of a 400E I bought. POR15 worked great.

You can see my description of how to get the lower rocker panel cover off at;
W124 exterior plastic panel removal.

I also had a problem with water in the trunk lid (on the sedan not wagon). In this case I could hear water in the trunk lid after rain when I opened the trunk. In the open position the water would drain out the top corners with the drain plug removed. I traced it to a small hole at one of the bends on the inside edge of the trunk lid (but not inside the seal). In my case I sealed it with black RTV. To find it I spent about an hour with duct tape and a garden hose localizing the leak.

Good luck
Paul