snapped bleeder nipple - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

lee polowczuk · #16 06-22-2005, 09:41 AM

I do the turkey baste method to change brake fluid. Also use a clamp.... I really never thought about contamination since my fluid is changed out once a year or so.

Brake fluid by its closed system nature shouldn't get contaminated.... unless its water absorbtion contamination.

I guess this is like the suck it out/drain it argument with oil, and the machine exchange/drain it argument with transmission fluid.

Arthur Dalton · #17 06-22-2005, 09:58 AM

<<

Quote:

Originally Posted by lee polowczuk

I do the turkey baste method to change brake fluid. >>

So do Used Car Lots..

<>

If you change every year or so , you have in fact thought about it...and rightfully so...

<>

It is not a closed system, It is vented to the outside air/humidity and it is water absorbtion that is the contaminant [ hygroscopic ]

<

>>

Nothing in common with that at all . This argument is centered around whether one changes the fluid at all or not.. Don't care if you suck it out or drain it out , just change it regularly unless you are unaware of, or care less of the consequences..

boneheaddoctor · #18 06-22-2005, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arthur Dalton

Boy , you blew that one
You don't bleed the system at all, You simply open the bleeder to make pushing the caliper back WITHOUT having to use a clamp.. cuz there is now no PRESSURE to push against .. meaning LESS work..When the caliper is back , you tighten the bleeder , No bleeding needed ,and with the added benefit of getting rid of the crap in the caliper ... plus , talk about less work.. now you do not even have to worry about the fluid raising the res level to overflow.
.. if you do not know a single mechanic that knows this common, time saving trick of the trade , you do not know any good mechanics..
.. and I will not even continue to school you on the benefits of brake fluid changes , cuz anyone who has been doing brakes for 32 years and would not be familiar with the hygroscopic properties of brake fluid and the problems that it causes is not about to listen to common sense..

If you change fluid you do it the right way....your way wastes some of the fluid without changing all of it...and overly complicats a simple job....

I still say if you are changing fluid you do all of it...not a little of it...

If you are changing brakes there is no need or reason to do what you described....

You do not end up with the beifits of a proper fluid change...becasue if you have a contamination you just contaminated the tiny amount you put in...and never achieved what you wanted to do.

I know all about changing fluid.....but I do it the right way....I do all of it at once...

pexcellence · #19 06-22-2005, 12:45 PM

Dwest,

The way to remove this is pretty simple. If you have access to a dremel tool, I would cut a slash on the exposed bleeder screw, then use a flat screw driver to twist it out. If there is no expose screw left, I would remove the caliper and take it to a machine shop. They should be able to drill it out. I would wait until this is fixed, then bleed the system at the same time. As for changing brake fluid, I would recommend doing this at the recommended interval, contrary to others.

Hope this help,

John

Brian Carlton · #20 06-23-2005, 12:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor

If you change fluid you do it the right way....your way wastes some of the fluid without changing all of it...and overly complicats a simple job....

I still say if you are changing fluid you do all of it...not a little of it...

If you are changing brakes there is no need or reason to do what you described....

You do not end up with the beifits of a proper fluid change...becasue if you have a contamination you just contaminated the tiny amount you put in...and never achieved what you wanted to do.

I know all about changing fluid.....but I do it the right way....I do all of it at once...

Bone, the entire discussion concerned replacing pads and pushing the pistons back. Arthur's method is far better than forcing the fluid up through the lines.

It has nothing to do with bleeding the lines. If you need to bleed the lines, you have a completely separate procedure to accomplish.

If you go back to post #10, it was your argument to Arthur that his method would require a bleed every time you did the brakes. Not only is this incorrect, but, it's not pertinent to the discussion.

Brian Carlton · #21 06-23-2005, 12:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lee polowczuk

I do the turkey baste method to change brake fluid. Also use a clamp.... I really never thought about contamination since my fluid is changed out once a year or so.

Brake fluid by its closed system nature shouldn't get contaminated.... unless its water absorbtion contamination.

You do understand that the turkey baster can't get any fluid out of the lines. Basically, you are exchanging the fluid in the reservoir only. This is certainly not the intent when M/B suggest a complete brake fluid change.

Brake fluid does get contaminated by moisture via the little hole in the top of the reservoir. If it was truly a closed system, you would never need to change the fluid.

blueranger · #22 06-23-2005, 02:02 AM

you guys miss the whole point....

by changing the brake pads with a large C clamp as
described in the repair manuals... and professional break repair
people use a hydralic C clamp....

and by using the turkey baster you allow a novice with limited skills
to do a quality break job....

suppose this fellow is limited in his skills and we tell him to crack open the
fluid system... if you turn the nipple and push the piston back you will
get air and have to bleed the brakes... and bleeding brakes in not for the novice....

a novice could very easily bleed the brakes incorrectly and get themselves killed.

sbourg · #23 06-23-2005, 02:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueranger

... if you turn the nipple and push the piston back you will
get air

No. The bleed screw is at the top of the cylinder, AND there is positive pressure in the brake (note sp) lines, due to gravity. The only way air will enter the system is if a rupture occurs in the seal while pushing the piston back. This tragedy will allow air to enter whether or not the bleeder is open/missing, and require disassembly and repair of the wheel cylinder anyway.

Steve

Arthur Dalton · #24 06-23-2005, 09:02 AM

<

The educational attemps seem to be an unfortunate waste and falling on deaf ears, but I certainly do enjoy the suttle sarcasm....

....gotta Love it..

Brian Carlton · #25 06-23-2005, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueranger

and by using the turkey baster you allow a novice with limited skills
to do a quality break job....

suppose this fellow is limited in his skills and we tell him to crack open the
fluid system... if you turn the nipple and push the piston back you will
get air and have to bleed the brakes... and bleeding brakes in not for the novice....

a novice could very easily bleed the brakes incorrectly and get themselves killed.

A turkey baster allows a novice with limited skills to change the fluid in the reservoir. This is not a quality brake job, if the intent of the brake job was a fluid change.

You will not get air in the brake lines for the reason noted above. Fluid will flow out of the bleed screw due to gravity from the reservoir. Air will not go in.

A novice can easily bleed brakes. It's not possible to bleed brakes "incorrectly". However, you can fail to bleed brakes sufficiently to get all the air out. The novice will know this immediately when they step on the brake pedal. If you don't want to learn how to do the job properly, then take the vehicle to a professional mechanic.

boneheaddoctor · #26 06-23-2005, 09:38 AM

You will draw air into the calipers if while bleeding them you have the bleeder open when you take your food off the brake and you are not using a bleeder attachment with a check valve in it.

Brian Carlton · #27 06-23-2005, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor

You will draw air into the calipers if while bleeding them you have the bleeder open when you take your food off the brake and you are not using a bleeder attachment with a check valve in it.

Not relevant.

We were discussing pushing the pads back and allowing the fluid in the caliper to exit the bleed screw rather than be forced up the lines back to the m/c.

Oh, and BTW, I can bleed any caliper without a bleeder attachment and a check valve, by myself, by simply performing the process you described: press on the brake and take your foot off the brake. Repeat. No air will enter the system. Guaranteed.

boneheaddoctor · #28 06-23-2005, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Not relevant.

We were discussing pushing the pads back and allowing the fluid in the caliper to exit the bleed screw rather than be forced up the lines back to the m/c.

Oh, and BTW, I can bleed any caliper without a bleeder attachment and a check valve, by myself, by simply performing the process you described: press on the brake and take your foot off the brake. Repeat. No air will enter the system. Guaranteed.

It CAN be done but you know what to do and what not to do....now put a newbie in that position....they are not likely to be aware if the issues..and if that beeder screw is just 1/4 turn looser than needed it will draw air from the threads.

Brian Carlton · #29 06-23-2005, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor

It CAN be done but you know what to do and what not to do....now put a newbie in that position....they are not likely to be aware if the issues..and if that beeder screw is just 1/4 turn looser than needed it will draw air from the threads.

I'm not speaking of just the exact amount of torque on the bleeder screw.

You simply shove a hose on the end of the screw and stick the other end in a narrow bottle with fluid on the bottom. Make sure the hose is below the level of the fluid. Leave the bleed screw wide open and hit the pedal 10 times. No air will be introduced. Guaranteed.

boneheaddoctor · #30 06-23-2005, 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

I'm not speaking of just the exact amount of torque on the bleeder screw.

You simply shove a hose on the end of the screw and stick the other end in a narrow bottle with fluid on the bottom. Make sure the hose is below the level of the fluid. Leave the bleed screw wide open and hit the pedal 10 times. No air will be introduced. Guaranteed.

Not true....you looesen that bleeder 1/4 turn or more in excess of whats needed to pass brake fluid and it WILL suck air on the return stroke of the brake pedal....I know becasue it has happended to me...and I proved thats what it was....very same principle behind why you can have a air leak on a fuel line and still not leak fuel.

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