Great info, Ill check the whole damned car while im at it.

What model years can you do this with Arthur?

Yeah. once you have the tool out and hooked up, you might as well just do a quick run through to the other pins cuz you never know when you might find . Could have an Egr hangin up or a CIS fault layin around..
It only take a minuite , so why not
Guys think they have No Faults cuz they have no CE on , but CE only pops when the Emmissions N59 module sees a fault in the Emmission system.. all the others can have stored faults and not trip the CE , so the tool lets you do that anytime you feel like it.
What I like is if you have a code and you fix the cuase , you can go back a couple of days later and the ECU will tell you if it haw detected that same fault again ... whic is good verification it is fixed...
They only had this through '95 on 124 chassis , so after that .. $canner is needed..


.. it ain't a scanner , but it ain't a G note either..

. and if you are cool , you can make the tool for $5 .

Hmmm, but I think I can still get 2 gallons of ....regular unleaded, lol and a flare for 5 bucks if all else fails.

I used to do Commercial refrig and a Club owner called me one time with a downed walk-in box he was attempting to charge.. he said he had everthing kinda figured out, but he wanted to know which gas was best, reg or un-leaded..

E.

My books show 124 chassis as '88 up to 95.
HFM SFI will be 16 pin , but still pin 7.
But anything prior to that with CE will have 8 pin with pin 7 being A/C Module
The 38 pin will use pin #16
They were making fast changes in diagnostic capabilities , so best just to look for the box ( I know the earlier 9 pin did not have it , 8 did.]
so , chassis 124.026/30/50/90/51/230/290 should use this system, according to my printed info

Note that 124.034./036 V8 uses a 38 pin diag box , so they are the exception and the tool will be
Bk-pin1
Red -pin 3
odd - pin 16.
These take the power directly off the box , so the Red to bat+ is not needed . [ same goes for HFM 16 pin .. #16 will be 12v + , instead of bat/red

Yes, but was the CIS used on the 104 engine also? Anything with the KEII I think will have the same diag connector, but the codes might vary slightly from year to year. The codes are on the CD.

Have a greeat day,

Only code differences I see on my info is 8 pin, 16 pin , and 38 pin connector.
Any model using each specific diagnostic box have the same codes..
The difference is in which Diagnostic connector the model uses. This also determines which pin is a/c module access.
All 104 w/HFM-SFI are DM 16 pin box.

Do you have a way to check your suction line temp and liquid line temp.this will tell you if you are sub cooling your liquid and how much superheat you have in your suction side or how much heat you are absorbing in evaporator.If you are not subcooling your liquid enough you can get hot gas blowing thru the liquid and that will reduce your cooling this can also happen when under charged.

About 180 psi on low blower and the high side temp is no more than 110F.
Turned the fans off, and it gets hot.

GP

Are you sure you have a nice clear sight ?
With 1500 rpm and full blower??


.and you have recharged w/R12 ??

What did your vac gauge read on evacuation?
ure you were not sucking air in as you were evacuating?



I am sure you have done all this , but it sure sounds like low refrigerant to me.

How did this story end?
 

Does anyone know how this long thread turn out? It's over two years old but it's still a good AC mini-series.

I am agreeing with aqua190's response above about the heater control valve. I just finished "overhauling" the ac on my W123 (compressor, condenser - parallel flow, expansion value, drier) and had what I thought was inappropriate gauge reading ("high pressure" on the low side gauge). Turns out the ac system was working properly, but the monovalve was stuck open and the related heat was "overtaking" the freon cooled air in the evaporator box. When I shut off the hot water flowing through the monovalve, I had ac in the vents at 40 degrees. Just an FYI, its one possible explanation if your AC will not blow cold, but you think it should.

hello ,

thanks for your suggestion this is really helpfulll or informative for me thanks again

thanks and regards