Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum > Technical Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 01-13-2001, 08:15 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 79
I'm in the process of replacing the 4,5 and 6 exhaust manifold gaskets on my '89 300SE and would love to know the secret to pulling the manifold away from the block. It's impossible to do by hand, so the job calls for a pry tool, but I'm afraid of breaking something. Can this be done without disconnecting the exhaust manifold from the exhaust pipe? Will prying it safely give the inch or so necessary to clear the bolts? What about cutting a slit in the gaskets so that they slip over the bolts? I appreciate any thoughts.

George
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-13-2001, 09:03 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 368
Jack up the car on the passenger side. You'll see a bracket on the exhaust. It's bolted to the rear of the transmission. Unbolt it at the transmission end (it's easier). Now you should be able to unbolt the manifold and move it by hand. Keep in mind you have to unbolt the whole manifold, not just the rear half.

Don't worry about braking 123. These gaskets are pretty tough. Actually, I am surprised that you have to change yours.


Vin


[Edited by vinamg on 01-13-2001 at 08:14 PM]
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-14-2001, 12:21 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: New Bedford, MA USA
Posts: 1,583
You may not get enough clearance with the mentioned procedure. You may find the header hitting against the back edge of the firewall. Two methods of getting it off. First (hardest), unbolt the header from the exhaust pipe. Second (easier, at least for me), remove the studs for the last three head pipes (manifold). You will have more than enough room to replace the little gaskets. I would replace the studs with stainless steel metric cap screws, so future work will be easier. If fact do them all. Half the time the studs will back out anyhow due to rust on the nuts.
__________________
Jeff Lawrence
1989 300e
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE
No matter what you fix, there will always be something else to fix..
"Warranty" is just another way of postponing the inevitable.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-14-2001, 12:39 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 368


I've pulled out an engine with the transmission in a 88 300E without taking the exhaust apart or taking out the studs. However, some of them do come off with the nut as Jeff mentioned.

Never did the job in a 126, but I'm guessing you should have even more room to move the manifold. I suggest trying my procedure since it is the simplest. If it doesn't clear then try to get those studs out by using two nuts.


Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-14-2001, 09:32 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 79
Thanks for the advice. Actually, the manfold on this car is split into two separate pieces one for 1-3 and the other for 4-6, so it is not necessary to pull the front one off. I don't know why the #4 gasket cracked because they are an impressive piece, but it did.

The nuts came off real easy with a little WD-40. The car is very clean having rarely been driven in the rain and never in the salt and slush, so I'm going to look into unbolting the exhaust pipe. Any other thoughts are appreciated.

FYI - The dealer wanted $250 to do this job. A little steep, huh?

Thanks
George
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-14-2001, 09:53 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 368
Hi,

I know that the manifold is separated, but they connect at the catalytic. If you unbolt both manifolds and the transmission bracket you can move the whole exhaust system till you hit the firewall.

Vin
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-14-2001, 06:14 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: New Bedford, MA USA
Posts: 1,583
If you try to pry the rear header over the studs, you risk cracking or distorting the down pipe to the precat. If I were you, I would unbolt both front and rear headers, remove the studs and replace with ss capscrews. If one gasket let go, then there is a good chance that another may not be too far behind.. Replace all the gaskets, you gotta buy a whole set anyway, or.. how many times do you want to break your back doing this job..
__________________
Jeff Lawrence
1989 300e
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE
No matter what you fix, there will always be something else to fix..
"Warranty" is just another way of postponing the inevitable.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-14-2001, 09:00 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 310
This place is great. Now I have an idea of what I'm up against when I tackle my 280. Thanks to the contributors. Steve Sparhawk
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Exhaust Manifold EGR Cigar Havana Tech Help 0 04-20-2004 11:33 PM
Exhaust Manifold Help (450 SEL) rix116 Vintage Mercedes 1 03-27-2004 01:20 AM
Intake, Exhaust Manifold available -300d cali model adamb Diesel Discussion 2 10-12-2003 10:23 PM
Any Turbo / Exhaust Manifold Failures Out There? Nate Stanley Diesel Discussion 5 04-02-2002 03:02 PM
Need Exhaust Manifold for 82 240D JimSmith Diesel Discussion 1 01-12-2002 12:43 PM



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:22 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2011 Pelican Parts - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page