...ask someone from Chicago what is the best pizza (or the better MLB team)
...ask someone from Boston the fastest way to get from the Back Bay to Inman Square
...or, ask a MB message board how often to change oil. I have been using Mobil1 15W50 at 4,000 miles for a 500e (86k), a 230sl(136k), an E320 (126k) and soon a C240. The dealer still says to change every 10k for the newer cars, but I can't bear it. I would really appreciate a learned opinion here,

THanks,
g

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64 230sl, my daily driver
94 E500, sold
98 E320, family and dog hauler
04 C240, safe machine for teen drivers, but a poc
08 audi a4, yes we have gone to the dark side

The two newer cars should be using something a little thinner but mobil 1 is good anyways. MB reccommends 0w-40 Mobil 1 for anything 98 and up (excluding pre 2005 diesels). We always suggested to customers to bring the cars in after 5k for an oil change, then the service done at the usualy 10k intervals.

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

The main reason manufacturers can stretch the service schedules out so far is because of the use of synthetic oils.

Ultimately it comes down to how thick your wallet is, if it's not bothering you financially, then stick to your 4,000 miles.

But really, if your using Mobil 1 you can safely extend the service to 10,000k

ozzy

Thanks for advice, and on that note:

It used to be recommended that oil gets changed every 3-5k miles or every 6 or 12 months, whichever comes first. Does the time limit still apply to synthetic oil, or does the fact that it is inorganic mean that time is no longer a factor?

Thanks,

g

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64 230sl, my daily driver
94 E500, sold
98 E320, family and dog hauler
04 C240, safe machine for teen drivers, but a poc
08 audi a4, yes we have gone to the dark side

Historically, conventional oils (mineral oils which are refined from crude oil) lack the performance of synthetic oils in the areas of low-temperature performance and high-temperature oxidation stability. Conventional oils also contain much greater amounts of impurities, such as sulphur, reactive and unstable hydrocarbons, and other undesirable contaminants that cannot be completely removed by conventional refining of crude oil. It is these impurities that limit the performance capabilities of conventional oils.

At start up, mineral oils can take over 1 minute to circulate throughout the whole engine. During this period, unlubricated surfaces in the engine suffer from friction, which in the long term lead to engine wear.
Synthetic oils have an excellent ability to flow quickly through the engine at extreme low temperatures, reaching the engine in less time at startup.
Modern engines run at very high temperatures, which can cause mineral oils to break down and oxidise, blocking oil passages with sludge residue. Synthetic oils resist breakdown, protecting against engine damage, and prolonging engine life.

On a side note, I say Gino's East Pizza and Chicago Cubs...

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08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

Without getting into the pros and cons of extended drain intervals...

Strictly as a practical matter, I've found that changing oil/filter at 5K & 10K to be quite handy.

When your odometer approaches a derivative of 5000 or 10000, you know you're due for a change. (So you need not refer back to your records). It really is tremendously convenient.

Just my 2 cents... arguably worth that.

Jeff Pierce

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Jeff Pierce

Current Vehicles:
'92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver)
'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk)
'99 Kawasaki Concours
Gravely 8120
Previous Vehicles:
'85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon
'53 Willys-Overland Pickup
'85 Honda 750F Interceptor
'93 Nissan Quest
'89 Toyota Camry Wagon
'89 Dodge Raider
'81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport
'88 Toyota Celica
'95 Toyota Tacoma
'74 Honda CB 550F

If I had newer cars, I suppose I would use synthetic.

I have always had the habit of changing dino oil every 3k miles. Usually plenty of sales on oil, so it doesn't really cost much.

I once tried synthetic because I got some sort of special, didn't really notice any difference... so I just went back to dino

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1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


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