1970 280 SE troubles....

[mcwulf30]

Ok....
New plugs.
New points.
Getting fire to plugs.
Proper Gap on plugs.
Proper gap on points.
New wires.
New cap and rotor button.
Have compression.
Have fuel going to combustion chamber.
Timing is ok.................................................................................................. ..
Why won't this DAMN THING START!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Larry Delor]

A stab in the dark here.... Maybe vacuum leak?

[edboyles]

Is it firing at all? Any chance that you have the wires wrong when you replaced them? Does it attempt to start?

[Arthur Dalton]

Take out #1 plug and bring engine up to compression stroke on #1. [That will be TDC on damper]
Now , take off dist cap and you will see an index line on the outer circumference of the dist body. The rotor should line up with that mark and then the plug wires should go in firing order around the dist cap from that point in the direction that the rotor normally turns.
Fire order is on top of valve cover..

[mcwulf30]

It's timed right.
and at tdc.

It is not even trying to start.
It will turn over....but that's it.

Is there some type of relay or starter inhibitor that will not allow it to run or even a fuse??

[Arthur Dalton]

6 or 8 cyl. ??

If 6 - jumper a wire from bat + over to the cold start valve solinoid on the intake [ over on the passenger side]... or , put a 12v test lamp at that terminal and see if there is power when starter is engaged ..don't look for power with just the key ON , as the CSV is wired to the starter circuit and will only get power while cranking of starter.
If NO, post results and I will walk you through the electrical sensors for CSV circuit

There is a little test port there to tell if it is working . Hex head plug .. if you remove that there should be gas when the starter circuit is energized...

How are you confirming gas at cylinders???

[Larry Delor]

I remembered a device on the drivers side fender well (near the front of the car) that is supposed to act to cut of the fuel (I think) to reduce consumption when you are coasting (foot off of pedal). Mine was unplugged by the PO. See if you can fine the little tyke and disconnect him, and try starting then.

Good luck!

-Larry

[mcwulf30]

I am in for the night and have to work 8am-1pm tommorrow...but I will check both after work tommorrow and let everyone know.

Also.....the gas pedal is sticking.

[wbain5280]

The cold start system may be out of adjustment. There is a thermo time switch, a heated bi-metalic switch inside a can style relay, that operates the cold start solonoid to move the injection pump rack to max. The bi-metalic switch may be out of adjustment. It's operated during starting and if you keep cranking, it opens up preventing the additional fuel.

Can you take a pic of the rear of the injection pump, from above?

You also have to be careful you don;t overheat the starter as the interanls can be damaged.

[Larry Delor]

Re: sticking pedal

Unsnap the ball-in-socket linkages and lube those up. If you unsnap the closest one to the firewall, you might be able to determine if the resistance is at the pedal, or somewhere down the line from there.

If it is the pedal, pull out the carpet and pull out the little plastic retaining clip at the base of the pedal. This lets you slide the pedal off of the rod that the pedal rests/slides on. Clean and lightly lube those things that you can tell need it.

Good luck!