Differentiating Fact from Fiction
 

Sometimes, you can even get totally wrong information that seems to be consensus. For me, ultimately there was a bit of trial and error and it cost me some money to get everything sorted out.

The OEM Sportline set-up is our best chance for avoiding problems, but I really do believe that part of the reason there are no problems is because it doesn't lower the car much at all. I wonder if just installing Bilstein HD shocks and bigger swaybars would get you just about the same thing for much less money.


Chappy likes his Sportline conversion

I think it is also very interesting that Chappy says his Sportline shocks were Bilsteins. In the pictures of his install, the replacement shocks are black, so they are not the Sports, which were designed for a lowered car. I guess Mercedes knows that the Sportline set-up is not a lowered situation, although Chappy said his car did drop with the new set-up.

Fact: My set-up really is pretty darn nice, with Eibach Pro Kit springs, Bilstein HD shocks, K-MAC eccentric bushings, +1 AMG 16" x 7.5" ET37 wheels, and 205/55/16 tires. I just need to get those "Sportline Plus" swaybars to complete what I am absolutely convinced was a great suspension upgrade.

I love my "Upgrade"
http://forums.mbnz.org/gallery/pics/W124_57782.jpg

ksing44,

I love the stance your car has. Maybe I am a bit more sensitive sitting in Music City, but mine looks more like a 4x4 when parked on an uneven surface.

I found out today that the only way I could get the Vogtlands by the weekend was another $70 for express shipping. So much for Vogtlands this weekend. Michael at PureMotorSports said he used to carry Eibach, and the reason he switched to Vogtlands was they were stiffer. As I have said, I love the bank vault ride, I just want it to corner better and sit lower. Not sure I want THAT much stiffer.

If I just change the bump pads, will this lower the center of gravity?

Another option which is looking better is just change the rubber and see how it drives. The only reason I have this weekend off is I took vacation. The next day off I will get is July 30th (EOQ at work). That means anything which does not get done this weekend won't get done until August. I just double-checked with enthusiasm; the stock struts/shocks, which I am guessing are the originals, stop as soon as I stop rocking them. And I weigh at least 230.

I will check on Sportline springs. Maybe those with one bump pads would get me where I want. I have not looked that hard at bars, I guess I will. Sure wish Rusty still ran those Sportline kit $900 specials.

I have had a normal suspension 300E , 1990. I replaced Comforts with HD's . Ride quality was firmer and not harsh by any means. Typical stock large gap between top of tire and bottom of fender. Does Sportline lower the car?
Absolutely. Don't know how much, but the Sportline looks much better to my eye. Wheel gaps much less.

I have had my '92 Sportline for about 4 years now. The springs are shorter and stiffer than stock. Control arm bushings are stiffer, sway bars larger diameter. Ride quality?

The standard MB Sportline shocks provide an excellent compromise between handling and harshness. I replaced them with Bilstein Sports about a year ago. The handling is stiffer. There is more harshness. V-Rated tires now somewhat irritating on certain interstate roads. Handling, however, is superb.

I also have a '93 Sportline that is still all stock. I don't drive it much at all, but it's ride quality is better than the '92 with the Sport Shocks.

So I would think that mixing components without knowing what will work with what could be an expensive exercise. For instance, the valving in Sports Shock is engineered to work with shorter, stiffer springs. Shocks need to match springs. If you do the springs and not the sway bars, then you have left out a piece of the puzzle.

Steve

For the record, I just got off the phone and have Sportline springs, sway bars and bushings on the way. I needed all new rear links, diff bushings, front tie rods, and I could not find my ball joints, so I got them too. This is on top of new rotors, pads and idler arm bushing kit I already have on the way. Since this is bumping the hobby ceiling in one shot, I waited on the struts/shocks; I can abuse the originals until I get some more time off and I may not need an alignment when I install the new ones later? BTW, the Sportline struts/shocks with the star are Boge which would explain why they are black and why they ride a bit softer than the Bilstein Sportlines (even if they only last 150k miles).

Question, are the Sportline front bushings for the the control arms or the sway bar? Control arms will mean I need a shop to press the old ones out which means I will need to do some more fast planning.

Control Arm Bushings

Steve

I did the ball joints and re-bushed the control arms.

It is NOT hard! People get all hung up on it because nobody will do it for you. I've written it up and showed pictures of the installation.

PS: Unless it's changed in the past 6 months or so, the front factory ball joints are made by TRW and cost me $18. each. You should consider the lower joint in the rear axle housing.

Michael

I am still sorting through part numbers to determine if I have another box on the way, but as of the last delivery Friday, I have everything but the front Sportline springs and the Sportline forward rear subframe bushings. Of course the dealer does not stock them.

I will do the ball joints since I have the Mercedes press, but what else can I reasonably do this weekend which will not duplicate work? I don't want to drop the rear subframe twice and I would really rather not leave the front up on jack stands with no springs. I wonder if it might be pointless to rebuild the brakes since that will just be in the way of replacing everything else?

zhandax,

Can you tell me where you purchased the ball joint press for the W124 and what it costs? The only one I can find listed is only for the 116, 123 and 126 models.

Thanks,

Gary

I rented the ball joint press along with the spring compressor. The only markings as seen below are AST / Made in USA / 00 (year of mfg?) and M0462. It looks like the Harbor Freight version someone here modified and posted is a reasonable approximation.

I also realized something else I overlooked. I live down south and decided to do this in July (which because I did not finish this weekend means it will run into August). Not some of my better scheduling.


Samiam4,

By the 'lower joint in the rear axle housing' do you mean replace the rear control arm bushings (inner and outer)? I added those to the mix along with the diff bushings.

According to the AST Tool page this is the ball joint press for the W116, 123 & 126 models. Did it work ok on your 124 without any modifications? I believe one of the sleeves for the 124 tool needs to have a shallow cut-away on one end.

Gary

I discovered the control arm bushings were in the next box also, and saw no point in changing the ball joints in car, then later removing the control arm to change the bushings. I will report when they are changed and if it appears illustrative, will post photos.

-dan

Some good news... I have the 4 bump springs pads up front as O/E. I assume this will provide about a 2" drop to the one bump pads. Even better, I got the first spring out with no loss of life. I wish I had removed the front sway bar before I had the spring compressed.

I also posted on this thread a question about the rear forward 'sportline' subframe bushings as listed by the 1987 Star article. It does not appear (without having the bushings out of the car) as if they will fit.

Here is an update,

Phalcon51, the balljoint tool shown appears too short for the w124. Guess I will use the other recommended method (beat it out with a 3lb hammer).

I measured the aluminum tube which goes through the bushings (5/8") and got that bit to drill the bushing. It seems there is another steel metal tube cast inside the rubber. It looks like it will take a 3/4" or 1" bit to completely drill out the bushing. Since the stores were closed, I used a carbide rod on a hacksaw frame to saw through the bushing. If you have to saw through rubber by hand (sawzall is at moms), this is not a bad way to go.

Also I have one eccentric bolt still stuck. I saw someone suggest a sawzall for this. I can either buy a propane torch or drive 160 miles to get my sawzall. Suggestions?

I had a sleeve machined which worked perfectly for balljoint removal.

I measured the sleeve on the autozone tool (ID? 2.25") and that's one diamter. The other fits the OD of the balljoint(bottom side). Round it off to give them 0.002-0.005. I dug at a shop and they had a piece of 2.5" thickwall tubing. Then machined away. I belive it was normalized 4340.

Michael

After I got a bigger hammer (thanks csnow: "you need a bigger hammer") I tried setting the 'ears' of the balljoint surround on the vice and pounding on the balljoint, but I was not sure if this was enough support so I stopped before I got enthusiastic. May modify a pipe coupling to give the arm more support.

What am I missing on this control arm bushing thing? After buying a $30 1" drill bit to drill out one of the bushings which took 1/2 hour and two drill batteries, I find that the lip belongs to the bushing, rather than the control arm. All I did was use the 4lb hammer with a vice and a #3 cheap screwdriver as pictured below, and had all of them out in about 5 minutes. One of the easier parts of the job so far.

It may be necessary to drill out the aluminum sleeve (takes a 5/8" drill bit) if they are seized. I will verify after I remove the passenger side control arm with a sawzall (the eccentric bolt IS seized.).