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380sl Timing chain
I replaced the rails and turned the engine over a few revolutions by hand then attached the new chain to the old one and started to feed the new chain through. I felt some resisitance and it stopped. I decided to post a thread and see if anyone has any ideas or previously experienced trouble with feeding the chain. All has been going well throughout the procedure until now.Thanks for any help.
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#2
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Hi Keito,if you have installed the rails properly and u sayed you turned the enging throu several times with no problems ,and than u probally cut out a link and installed the new chain with a master link and turned the engine throu by hand,and what happened that tohe engine does not turn throu is that the chain jumped a tooth or two,it always happens when you dont remove the spark plugs.(and even then the jump once in a while).So first thing u should do is slowly turn the engine backwarks very little so u have no tension on the chain..VERY LITTLER Bit. than u need to jump the chain one tooth forward or rearward.u will find out wich way the chain did jump.So i also hope u removed the chain tensioner when u started doing this work and that you fed the chain throu fom the right side of the engine #1 cylinder.if it works to get the engine turning again to finish the job.Make sure u check the chain timing after the job is done ,both camshafts and crank pulley.if u need more help let me know do u have a single chain or a double chain in it? Harald
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#3
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I don't mean to scare you but it's really important to follow the procedures in the manuals especially if this is the first time you've done this or are not an experienced mechanic. Bending the valves "a little" is very bad. The comments above about removing the tensioner and the spark plugs are worth repeating. I wouldn't dare do this job without doing both of those steps first. if you even THINK that you've jumped the chain, it might be worth stopping, taking a deep breath, and getting local help. I am not an expert mechanic, so I bought a "cap" that fits over the RH cam gear, which makes jumping the chain while doing this procedure effectively impossible. It was $50, but I looked at it as "insurance".
You HAVE removed one entire link from the old chain, correct? And the RH (passenger) head rockers? because the RH cam isn't really in sync anymore with the tensioner and tension removed, it definitely CAN get out of sync while doing this and without the chain and tensioner being installed, allowing valves to touch if the rockers are still in. If you haven't done these things, please don't proceed and post again!
__________________
86 560SL With homebrew first gear start! 85 380SL Daily Driver Project http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl/mercedes.htm |
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hi Strife that is cool that you bought yourseft one of those rails for doing the chan.it willdefinetelt help but it is not completely 100 percent bullet proof.unless u get the rails for both camshafts.but u are right it probally would of avoided it jump.And the funny thing is i am a proffesionl and i dont even have that tool myself.i have done about 100's of timing chains and yes sometimes they jump on me too.so u need to be carefull what to do next.and strife the valves will not bend that easy just from turning the engine by hand and the piston touches the valves,unless you start to Force the engine to turn or going back and forth hard.So Keito dont worry about thinking about having bend valves it takes some force to bend them by hand turning the car..Just do NOT crank the car over with the engine. And just like i had stated before if u do get the engine turning,what i use is 2 vice grip pliers on the right hand wheel ,one on the chain being removed and one on the chain being instaled ,and just turn the engine bit by bit and reposition the pliers as often as it takes.JUst be very careful nott to drop the chain into the engine,,,than it is happy hour.And what i always do is on either ends of the chain i put a chicken wire on it ,just in case the chain does slip and wanted to fall in the engine .i have the wire hooked up to the chain and can pull it out again Harald
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#5
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380sl timing chain Reply
Thanks for the reply meangreen and strife. I did remove the plugs and tensioner and have been going slow since I encountered the difficulty. I am proceeding with caution. I am afraid that the valves may have gotten bent if the chain jumped a notch when the problem first occured. I will post as I proceed with my results. Thanks again
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380sl timing chain continuing
I remove the plugs and checked the compression on a couple of cylinders and it seems ok. I then decided that it must be a chain problem. I left the plugs out, disassembled the front of the engine compartment, radiator, hoses everything that was in close proximity to the job at hand. I removed the drivers side valve cover and found the rail broken in half. I removed the tensioner and then replaced all the rails on both sides and attemnpted to replace the chain. That's where I am still at. I believe I wil try to get the chain on and the timing correct, then put what is needed back on and try to crank it. I always loved this car. If I have to, I'll do it all again. I am in need of a radiator though. Any good radiator shops out there. thanks keito
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