nop, no blinking LED in the dash

OK

You do not have ATA ..

One last check before schematic trace..

Do you see a 3 wire connector to the left of the brake booster/master on a firewall between the booster and the engine
It should have a center wire V/Wt.. ??

Yes, I see the connector, center wire (thickest one) Violet/white, there is also a green/brown, and a brown/black both not as thixk as the other one.

So there is a difference between ATA (quessing Anti-theft alarm? and the factrory alarm that I have???

thanks buddy

Please , forget alarm and radio codes and stuff for now so I can continue..

Unplug 3 wire connector
Make sure car is in N or P
Run a jumper wire from the bat pos+ terminal to the center pin on the firewall [ v/wt]
see if starter turns .

sorry about the extra questions about the alarm.
let me get this staight before I fry the whole car:
Unplug the connectro and apply 12 Volts on the Violet/white side of the connector that is still attached on the wirewall, right?

Correct

Just touch the center pin with the 12v jumper .. the pin at the firewall,
NOT the connector on the end of the wire harness you just unplugged ..
but the one on the wall that is fixed mounted there ..

If this is not something you do not feel comfort with , then we can stop here,,

Arthur you the man buddy.
Car cranks (though I did not fully started being afraid of not having the connector on).
If I understand correctly, we just bypassed the ignition key switch, right?
thanks man, this is good stuff

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I did not want the car started .. if I did , I would have told you to turn the key ON before the test..
The test is just a convienient location to get into the starter system and verify starter feed .
So , you now know you have a feed problem between that point and the bat feed.
That can mean ign sw [which I doubt b/c of the other test ] , NSS sw , [but that does not explain No indicator lights ], or a security system interlock that I can not find on my schematic.

What was your original complaint ??

okay here is the original complaint:
About a month or so ago, the car did not start with park engaged.
I put it on neutral and the car started. I was very busy at the time that I never looked into it and I was using the neutral as my shortcut . Around the fourth of July (potsed a thread here) the car did not start at all even if I put it into neutral (however all the warning lighs were operating as they should). After lots of frustration and jiggling with the shifter I got it started again that evening.
But 3 days ago it did it again . Then after all the threads that I read, I decided to replace the shifter bushings (2 of them) which I did 2 days ago. However the car never started since the last time it did not crank.
sorry about the long post

By the way for everybodys info the part number for the shifter linkage bushings (both identical) is: 11-992-03-10 for $4.51 both including tax.
They kind hard to get especially the front one (closest to the tranny) but after putting them into the microwave for about a minute (do not heat them up with open flame, they will melt) and lube them with soap they went in.
It is a job worth doing and cheap.

All points to NSS except the lights

The only way to be sure is to jumper the NSS , although I would just change it , as you know you had trouble that the bushings did not remedy..
Bushings are just to tighten up the shift rod to make sure the NSS is being moved to correct positions.
. but if that remedies the start, I do not see that having any relation tp your other problem w/lights.

I will try this tommorow since it is allready 11pm
thank you very much Arthur.

May I pm you if I have anymore questions or post here?

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PM is no good as it is alway full and I only get a Full notice.

Arthur, how do I test about the functionality of the NSS?
thanks buddy

if those lights never come on, I would check the bulbs. you can find instruction in DIY section on pulling cluster.

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2005 Mercedes C230k sport sedan, 6 speed
1987 Porsche 924S - 968-engined track car