I had an educational time reading many posts before posting this topic, and determined that everyone here is *very* knowledgable and helpful -- thanks in advance for any light you might shed on my questions.

I recently purchased a 190e 2.3 that has been crashed. It was not a salvage vehicle, and receipts for all related repairs were included. It needed a radiator and strut, hit front drivers side area. The current owner has had it for a number of years and has put many miles on it since the crash. It needed a radiator and strut, hit front drivers side area.

My first problem is that the oil light comes on once the car warms up, and stays on. The level is fine per the dipstick and my oil pressure is fine. Someone told me it was common to have this light or the check engine light stay on after a crash. I had the compression checked before I bought the car about a week ago, and the compression was fine. Any tips would be appreciated, but mainly I wonder if this is a "dangerous" (meaning potentially costly or motor-killing) problem.

Second, the car shifts hard. It has an auto transmission, and does not slip or vibrate, just seems to go into gear hard. It is worse when the car is cold, but my parents have an identical car, except it is a 1993, and it does not shift hard. (He mentions that it does tend to "wind up" to high RPMs before shifting when it is cold.) The fluid is a little dirty, but full. I am taking it in to a Benz specialist for a fluid and filter change, and hoping at worst that the modulator needs replaced, or at best that it just needs adjusted. Comments or advice? I saw some posts on different models, but figured the tiny 190 has a different tranny...

Finally, two power windows are non functional. The prior owner gave me a few old switches he had, and said that these particular switches were non-coated at the factory, and frequently need cleaning or replacement because of their unusual location... Comments? If changing the switches doesn't help, where do I start looking for other problems? Obviously I have checked the fuses and they are good - besides, don't they all run off the same fuse? So two working would imply that the problem is at the switch or the motor or in the wiring between the two? Any help on this especially appreciated...

Anyway, thanks for your time. I really love the way this car drives, it is just like my dad's 93 model which I have always enjoyed driving - but I'm probably considerably lighter of pocket than most Benz owners... Being a complete automotive idiot, I will benefit greatly from ANYthing you might tell me.

If oil level is fine and clean could just be a bad connection on the sensor or wire. Change of trans fluid will help shift especially if filter is clogging. windows run on two fuses, if your non-operative windows are diametrically opposed, this is likely your problem. uses are tricky, they look good but when you remove them you'll find a bad one that crumbles in your hand, corroded! Good luck and post your results.

I have read through this forum that most Mercedes automatic transmissions will let the engine wind up when they are cold. After a few shifts , If the trans functions normal then the trans is probably OK. The "hard shifting" could possibly be a bad driveshaft flexible coupling at the transmission end.
There are problems with the power windows in these cars. It could be first the fuse. One fuse powers Driver window and rear passenger window the other fuse powers passenger front and drivers rear windows.
The next item would be the the switch on the center console. If the passenger side window works try swapping passenger switch for driver switch. If that dosn't work you may have to reomove the door panels for further investigation on motor/regulator.

__________________
1990 190E 2.6
1996 Grand Voyager 3.3
1985 Mustang GT 5.0 5 SPD
1982 Suzuki GS 750T

Window switches are different on the console, different pin configurations were noted on mine.

My window switches in for the front were interchangable,in fact, I used the passenger switch to open the driver window for a week until my new switch came in. They have different markings on the switch but the pin configuration was the same.

__________________
1990 190E 2.6
1996 Grand Voyager 3.3
1985 Mustang GT 5.0 5 SPD
1982 Suzuki GS 750T

Makes interesting reading, especially the bit about the gear shifting. I recently sold a 190E and now have a '91 300CE. The transmission is fine, having had regular oil changes and I noticed recently, every time I drive the car off the drive from cold, the engine will wind up to about 5000 RPM before it changes out of first. The 190 never did this, neither does the 500SEL I have, but there again, neither of the others have traction control the 300 has. I am curious to know if the two are connected. After I have driven about 1/2 Km down the road in a straight line, it changes up just fine and I there is no further problem. Is this perhaps normal ?

Andy Day:
For whatever it is worth, the trans on my 87 300E always starts in second (unless I have it in 2 or floor it), and even when cold, always shifts at a "normal" low rpm without winding out. At least so far, anyway.

__________________
John

2003 Firemist Red/grey leather SL 500
2015 Palladium Silver/black mbtex GLK 350
1987 Smoke Silver/burgundy mbtex 300E Sportline (SOLD)

Click to see 87 300E

JCE . . .You are likely right, I never really took too much notice of which gear it is in when I start. Do you think however that this ' cold start ' delayed shift is normal. I dont have any manauals yet for this car and the handbook is all in German. I am guessing it is as the rest of the shifts are fine once I reach the 'T' junction at the end of the road. It would make ( Mercedes ) sense not to start off in first now you mention it !

Andy:
I looked through my manuals - couldn't find anything about winding out when cold. I don't have traction control, so who knows. I did a search and found this thread:

92 400E Transmission Problem!?!?!?!

It is about 400Es, but says that the cold shifting pattern is normal, according to their manuals!

__________________
John

2003 Firemist Red/grey leather SL 500
2015 Palladium Silver/black mbtex GLK 350
1987 Smoke Silver/burgundy mbtex 300E Sportline (SOLD)

Click to see 87 300E

Wow, lotsa info and posts so far -- many thanks!

Does anyone have any advice re: the oil light? I am taking the car in Thursday for service and they will look at that too, I have not yet had the opportunity to fool with the switches...

My 92 300Ce Does this, so does my dads 1994 SL600. when its cold it stays in first gear. then when warmed up enough, it goes back to normal 2nd gear starts.

At least this is what I have noticed.

Alon

__________________
'92 300CE - Sold
2004 C240 - 744 - C7 Wheels - Android Radio
2002 C320 - 816 - Sport Wagon

JCE/Alon............Is this the beauty of this site or what, so much information ?. Thanks guys. I have ordered from the local dealers a handbook about 2 months ago but so far, nothing. My 500 certainly shifts quite normally when cold, I have just been for a blast round the block after the car has been sitting for about a week. The search was interesting, makes sense to me to warm up the converter to kick that into action.

__________________
1993 190E 2.0L (Euro.) sold
1991. 500 SEL (Euro.)
1991. 300 CE (Euro.) sold
1993. 500 E (U.S. spec.)

When engine is cold, an electronic sensor locks out low-rpm gear changes (in all gears) until the catalytic converter is warmed up to operating temp. It's normal for the car to hold shifts, even all the way to 5000rpm, before upshifting when the cat is cold -- a good reason to let the engine warm up on these models before taking to the road. Engineers designed this for emissions reasons and it's specified in my manual (1993 190 2.6).

As to tranny, didn't have a look at how many miles you've got on your car but my experience with MBZs and with this type of MBZ tranny in particular is such: you can live with it or mess with it. As the MBZ trannies gets more and more worn-in, the shifts tend to get firmer. Especially noticeable when cold. ALL of my MBZs did this. It's somewhat adjustable (to make it softer, that is), though I'd recc a tech do this as you can easily make it too soft and have it slip itself into early destruction. The flex plates on the driveshaft could also be exacerbating the issue - again have a tech look at it, they can give you a diagnosis in no time. There's been a TON of posts re: hard-shifting trannies - try the search function. I more you know...

Wow, sure glad my 190E has the 5-speed manual! Having your engine rev to 5000rpm from a cold start doesn't sound too smart, but hey - as long as it protects the delicate catty converter (which my '87 thankfully also does not have

The leccy window switches do tend to gam up with dirt because of their horizontal dust-collecting position.

Fortunately, they are easy to DIY-dismantle with a thin flat-blade screwdriver (you can do this within a transparent poly bag to avoid losing the little springs inside, or just take it apart carefully). They are quite simple inside but have a few small fiddly bits, which are fairly obvious to see how they fit together.

Then just clean the internal contacts with a cotton bud and reassemble. It cured my car's non-working windows.