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  #1  
Old 07-31-2005, 12:43 PM
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86 300E - Trans Removal Question

I'm going to remove my trans to repair a couple of leaks. I've never pulled a trans before and I'm wondering which of the transmission jacks shown below would be best suited to attaching to the 300E's transmission without damaging the pan or any linkage. They're both available at Harbor Freight right now on sale. The Scissors Jack is going for $49.99 (belt strap, no saddle tilt) and the floor jack adaptor is $52.99 (chain strap, saddle tilt 60 deg. forward, 10 deg. backward).

Are there any tricks or tips I should be aware of for this job?

Thanks for any advice.

Gary
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86 300E - Trans Removal Question-trans-scissors-jack.jpg   86 300E - Trans Removal Question-trans-jack-adaptor.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 07-31-2005, 05:54 PM
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Are you going to take the engine out too?

I'm inclined to go for the one with the adjustability and the chain, but I don't have any experience w/ either.
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1990 190e 2.6 - The only one I can really call "My Car".

1987 190e 2.3 - The donor car's up and running, only mods are Euros and a Sony headunit. My Dad's runabout now.

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  #3  
Old 08-01-2005, 01:43 AM
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No, I wasn't planning to pull the engine if I can help it. Hopefully, it won't be necessary.
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  #4  
Old 08-01-2005, 10:00 AM
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well, you really want the trans to be able to tilt some on the jack, as you'll have the back of the engine tilted downward to disconnect things and when you part the trans from it. Even though the scissors jack doesn't have a "tilt" feature, it will tilt a little, just due to the weight of the trans. Still, the tilt feature looks like a plus. Yet, the scissors jack has the raise/lower controlled by a ratchet drive, which is much more controllable than a hydraulic floor jack.

In theory, these seem like must-have tools for this job. However, I've found that the jack itself requires a lot of extra height, so the car needs to be lifted WAY up if the trans is attached to the jack and then rolled under. Thus, I've resorted to balancing the trans on a floor jack with a piece of 3/4" plywood between the jack and oil pan. When the jack comes all the way down, I put wood blocks under each end, pull out the jack, pull out the blocks one by one, until the trans rests on a sheet of cardboard, then pull it out behind the removed left front tire. Reverse to install.
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Old 08-01-2005, 10:17 AM
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Wouldn't this be one of those cases where it might be a lot easier on the heart if you paid someone to take it out and put a new one in....

It seems very complicated without a car lift.
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1989 300ce 129k
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1997 s320 145k (what a ride)

1994 e320 Cabriolet 94k (finally)



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


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  #6  
Old 08-02-2005, 03:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lee polowczuk
Wouldn't this be one of those cases where it might be a lot easier on the heart if you paid someone to take it out and put a new one in....

It seems very complicated without a car lift.
Unfortunately, that would be just a little difficult right now, under the circumstances.....
Attached Thumbnails
86 300E - Trans Removal Question-wip.jpg   86 300E - Trans Removal Question-dsc04747.jpg   86 300E - Trans Removal Question-oops.jpg  

Last edited by Phalcon51; 08-02-2005 at 03:35 AM.
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  #7  
Old 08-02-2005, 03:29 AM
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Cool....you're just about ready to take it out. Use 2 jacks: 1 under the engine (bottle jack + wood will work) and a floor jack (one of the good ones w/ a wide lifting surface) under the bellhousing. A third (trolley or floor) jack may be used under the rear of the trans, but isn't necessary if you have someone there to guide it. You just need someone to pull on the tranny and keep the rear of it from falling too hard; most of the weight is at the bellhousing.

It can be done w/ 1 able-bodied helper, but I'd recommend trying to get 2 helpers to remove it, if you can.
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1990 190e 2.6 - The only one I can really call "My Car".

1987 190e 2.3 - The donor car's up and running, only mods are Euros and a Sony headunit. My Dad's runabout now.

1990 300e 2.6 - The parents' ride.
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  #8  
Old 08-02-2005, 06:47 AM
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Phalcon51,

How difficult was the rear sub-frame to remove? I've often looked at that and thought that would be the way to go when rear bushings need to be replaced. I figure I could just set it on the bench and have excellent access to everything.

I appreciate your thoughts.

Jeff Pierce
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  #9  
Old 08-02-2005, 07:31 AM
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very impressive undertaking. I wonder how that rear camber strut got bent.
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1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines)

1997 s320 145k (what a ride)

1994 e320 Cabriolet 94k (finally)



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


[/SIGPIC]
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  #10  
Old 08-03-2005, 12:40 AM
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A guy in an older 300SE backed up into the Lt. rear wheel as my wife was starting to turn into a parking spot 2 cars down from him. His Rt rear bumper corner hit the top of the wheel and buckled the strut. The newer strut I'm replacing it with is made of 2 pieces of stamped steel, mirror images of each other. It appears to be much stronger.

Gary
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