1998 E320 Oil Pan 13mm Bolt Impossible to Remove!

[Maruzo]

Hi all:

Not sure if anyone's having the same problem that i have, but this oil pan bolt (13mm) is just impossible to remove. I pretty much shredded the head trying to get it off. It's unbelievably tight and just won't budge. I tried using a regular 13mm wrench, then a few different models of heavy duty vises. Everything faile. Everytime i exert force on the head, the tool just slips over the edges and smudges it smooth. The bolt won't move at all.

Since i got the car serviced last at the dealership, i'm going back and complain to them for getting the bolt stuck.

My question is, is there a longer, more precise fitting tool that the dealership uses to remove the bolt? I think you need a very fitting 13mm tool with a very long handle to obtain enough cleavage to move this sucker. Since the bolt head is just way too small.

Please feel free to post your experience.

Much Obliged!

Mars

[mark cummins]

I Have Seen SEVERAL Drain Plugs that were Over tightened...
Try a 12 point socket...and (TAP) The Head of the drain plug with a Hammer..
Several tool companies make SPECIAL sockets for rounded off bolts..
Or Try Vise grip...with a (TAP) of a Hammer

[Maruzo]

sounds like good advice. I'll give it a shot. Thanks!

[Arthur Dalton]

Always use a 6 point socket/wrench on oil plug..
Once you have rounded it , this will usually work..

http://www.sears.com/sr/craftsman/whatsnew/cr_ct_cooltooldetail.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&Tool_Id=45

[Ali Al-Chalabi]

The dealer uses a suction pump to remove the oil from the engine. They do not touch the drain bolt. Chances are that the drain bolt has never been removed since it was installed at the factory unless you did a DIY oil change from the drain bolt yourself. Same thing happened on my C280.

[plink49]

I had the same problem with my '86 300E, and I had been the one to change the oil on numerous occassions previous, so I have no idea how it got so seized. At any rate, I agree with Arthur....those tools from Sears work great! .....albiet a tad expensive just to get out one bolt! But....I know this might seem obvious, but make sure you have the replacement drain plug before you extract the old one!

[Maruzo]

will it help if i open up the oil cap and or loosen up the oil filter housing as well? maybe bringing in a bit more air might release the internal pressure somewhat to alleviate the force that locks up the drain bolt?

anyway, i've got replacement bolt standing by, with a pickup slip for the sears tool. Gonna try it out in an hour or so. Wish me luck!

Mars

[yosshimura]

WEll? Don't keep us in suspense .. did the tool work? I have not changed the oil myself on this car.... but usually oil drain bolts should be slightly tightened, I forget the lbs it should be, but shouldn't be tight at all, unless like some said, its always been drained from above...

I have stripped snapped a few bolts in my time , so know how it sucks big time ... shock mount on one car, bolt holding water pump ... ... umm, probably a couple in one of my motorcycles ..... LOL,.....

That tool looks interesting... Being careful, you might want to apply heat... that works... dangerous down there, maybe don't try it...

[Maruzo]

okay, reporting back. Sorry for the delay. This sucker took me 2 trips down Sears and freaking 2 1/2 hours of frustration!!

Anyway, finally took the darn thing off.

Here's what happened:

I went and got the 5 pc regular size bolt-out set from sears with a few wrenches and vises. Tried Size 7 on the set (it was the closest fit) didn't fit at all. Had to use Size 8, which was a bit too big. So i went back and this time got their low-profile 10 piece set ($29.99 instead) and also a 3/4 " combination wrench. Came back, applied parking brake, raised the passenger side of the car with the jack, and gently tapped in the No. 5 bolt-out remover into the very stripped 13mm bolthead on my drain pan. Please note that the No. 5 in the low-profile will fit a 13mm bolthead, but a no. 5 in the regular size bolt-out kit will not fit at all!!

Anyway, after I tapped the No. 5 onto the stripped head, i used the longest 3/4 combination wrench I could find, and gave it a very hard and good twist. The bolt sort of "popped" out of a freeze and then it was smooth sailing all the way.


Now time to remove the other hurdle: the oil filter. Gonna give some loving synthetic fluid to my baby benz. ^^

Thanks for all your help guys. Especially Arthur for pointing out this wonderful tool!

[Arthur Dalton]

I am not one for gimmick tools , but this one is just great.
You want the 13 mm metric one, by the way..

Another simular tool [ easy-out design] that Sears has is the set for taking out stripped headed screws. It also works amazingly well...

Specially on aluminum phillips [ you know how those strip] and heavily
painted screws.
The only thing I dislike about the tools is having to watch the Vila commercial...

[MikeTangas]

Glad to see you got the drain plug out and gladder still that you were able to tell us about the experience. Please don't ever work under your cra while it is supported by a jack, be sure to use jack stands or ramps, it is much safer that way plus you have a lot more room to work.

[Maruzo]

tks for the tip mike. i'm a bit uneasy about using ramps, always afraid that the car will just roll backwards off the ramp and crashing me underneath. but of course using a jack is a even more stupid idea. :p

I'd like to try using the jack stands. can you share your method of putting up the stands?

much obliged!

Mars

[mpolli]

I had the same problem on my '98 C230 this weekend, seized 13mm oil drain plug. I know it has never been off its whole life since it always had the oil changed at the dealer before. I had warmed the car up to operating temp before hand but then I considered that maybe it would be easier if it was not warmed up. Does anyone have experience loostening an oil drain plug cold vs hot? Anyway I had a good 6 point socket and lots of leverage but I didn't want to strip the head or shear it off so I though maybe if I could somehow cool the bolt it might shrink a bit (hey I'm a dreamer). Anyway, I had a can of "freeze-it" (spray for freezing things that electronics people use). So I sprayed the head of the bolt for awhile until it was cold but the pan was still plenty hot. I tried again and it came off. When I reinstalled it, besides using the proper torque (18 ft lbs) I put a little never-seize on both sides of the copper washer and on the threads near the head, just for "good luck".

Mike