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  #1  
Old 08-11-2005, 02:18 AM
Charlane
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Tips/Info For Valve Adjustment for 123 240D?

Hello. I've not done this on this diesel before so this is a bit new. Any tips, tricks or info before I take this on? I've installed engines, rebuilt carbs and suspensions before so don't let the gender fool you. Thanks in advance.

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Old 08-11-2005, 06:40 AM
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Yes.

Get a hand switch to turn the engine over with, instead of cranking it around with a socket and rachet.

Makes is oh so much faster and easier.

Also make sure you have a good set of the valve adjusting wrenches. It also makes the job much easier.
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Old 08-11-2005, 06:52 AM
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Ditto on the Wrenches . . .

After a quick search, you will find how to make your own set, where to purchase (here at Fastlane) or go the rental route (see the sticky on Tool Rental Program). I also found the go - no- go method with the feeler gauges, i.e. I used the proper gauges plus after turning additional revolutions used the next smaller and larger to back my opinion up. Experienced people probably don't need the additional steps . . .
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Old 08-11-2005, 05:49 PM
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I like the feeler guages that are grouped by a screw and nut so I can take out just one. Also, a 27mm deep socket and a ratchet on the crank bolt is just fine -very controllable and safe for turning engine. just make sure it turns CW only (as you look at it from front of car) reversing it can damage timing. Last, it's a good time to check valve timing. Neutralize #1 intake, check crank when valve has reached 2mm lift.
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Old 08-12-2005, 03:20 AM
Charlane
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Thanks for the tips! I've already got the odd looking wrenches as I bought those last year just for this purpose. All I'm waiting on is my valve cover gasket I bought online that should be here in days!

Thanks again! This is good stuff.

Charlane
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Old 08-12-2005, 08:13 PM
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http://home.tiscali.no/henriksen/mercedes/maintenance/TimingChain.htm
for chain stretch...
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  #7  
Old 08-15-2005, 01:04 PM
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Valve Adjustment on 240D

This is a fairly easy service procedure that all Diesel owners should do or have done once a year. Based on the info in your post, you should have no problem with this one.

First, only do this with the engine ice cold. I would not even do it on a hot summer day, as that could throw off the gap. I got in the habit of only doing this procedure in the winter months when ambient temp is below 50 deg-F for consistency. disconnect your vacuum connector, then the valve cover comes off easily by removing the four retaining nuts. I always use the dual feeler gauge method (ie. select a gauge slightly larger and smaller than the spec. After adjustment, the larger one should not fit and the smaller one should fit easily). Be sure you know if you are adjusting an intake or an exhause valve, as they have different specs. starting from the front of the engine the sequence is E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E (E for Exhaust, I for Intake). Measure all the gaps before starting any adjustments, then only adjust those that were out of spec (if it aint broke.......). I made my own wrench set, and that worked well. The large one is for holding the spring in place and keep the valve from turning, while the two smaller ones are for loosening the retaining nut, and adjusting the valve clearance. A remote starter really helps in rotating the engine, but a manual socket will work as well.

Lastly, you may not need to replace the valve cover gasket, I found that unless it is cracked or damaged these can be reused a couple of times. All it does is keep oil from leaking out from around the valve cover, and that is not under any significant pressure.

Good luck.

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