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  #16  
Old 01-29-2001, 11:43 AM
dlswnfrd
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S.Longston

Scott check your mail. I've used the Red Line Fuel additive since Hector was a pup. 2 oz. with every fill-up regardless of the quanity, so my concentration is a little higher than reccommended. I'm still on the original injectors and they have never required servicing in 170,700 miles. Not too shabby, huh?
I use EP90 Gear lube in my reare--,oops, differential. I add 8oz of GearMoly to 1 gallon of gear lube. I've done this for the life of my ole tub.
I'm a firm believer in Molibdimum disulfide. I add 500ml every 30,000 miles to my crankcase oil. There ain't no noises in my machine. If I ever have to change from the Dino oil, it will be to Red Line, I've read the comparison too.
Considerring where you live, how about the large Sinclair Dino on I-10, is he still thier, overlooking the wind generator farm?
Happy Trails Beep Beep from Houston.
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  #17  
Old 01-29-2001, 01:17 PM
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Earl Sinclair?

Donald,

If you are talkin' about those two cement reptiles (one with a gift shop inside) That are East of Los Angeles out in Cabazon, I really can only assume that they are still there. I haven't been down to visit them since about '92.

I live up North, way up North of there, North of San Francisco in fact, closer to I-80. My "appellation" is West of The Sonoma Valley, East of The Russian River Valley, and South of The Dry Creek Valley.
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  #18  
Old 01-29-2001, 01:40 PM
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Re: Synthetic vs mineral

Quote:
Originally posted by HarryM
Synthetic oil is about 4 times the price of mineral oil. For that price it has to be 4 times better, but is it? If you use mineral oil and change it twice as often, you're still money ahead. I'm voting for Castrol 10W40.
Here's my experience with Mobil 1, various weights in gas engines:

1981 Chev. Citation 2.8l V6

Owned from 1984-1994, put 120k miles total on the car, averaging 12k/miles year. I changed the oil 10 times (with filter), because 12mo./25k miles is what Mobil recommended in the early years. Car was donated to a race project, it never had any problem involving a lubricated part.

1989 Ford Probe GT

Currently owned, owned since 1989. There are 155k miles on the car, using Mobil 1 for 145k miles. The oil has been changed (with filter), on average, every 8 months. There has never been a problem with any lubricated part, including the turbo. I take no special precautions for the turbo at shutdown.

Neither of these cars have had special care and are/were often started under below freezing conditions.

I am a synethetic oil believer. I also use synthetic in my MB. For me the price of the oil is inconsequential. I like to change my own oil, but I don't want to do it very often.
This is not an argument against using conventional oil, rather it is my successful experience with synthetic.
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  #19  
Old 01-30-2001, 04:48 PM
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My guess is that the label (Syn! SH+) is very old, as the "SH+" probably refers to its rating of SH, which is out of date (currently it's SJ). The label was probably a gimmick included with the oil as a reminder to service techs "not to add any regular oil" -- as a synth. oil user myself, I'd love such a label, as I'm always reminding the service writer and techs not to add any oil when they give the car its concluding QC checkover; and instead, I just painted (in red paint) on my valve cover next to the oil fill cap, "contains synth oil -- do not add any oil".


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  #20  
Old 01-30-2001, 04:56 PM
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Mobil 1 in new cars, and "break in"

I noted your comment about new MBs coming from the factory with Mobil 1; and I've heard that before.
I've used synthetics for over 25 years, but always after a generous break-in period, as recommended by the oil manufacturer. So it's interesting that, here, synthetic oil should be used right away -- unless there is some "break-in" version of synthetic oil that I've never before heard about.
I'm starting to have an old engine (M110) (on a used car I just bought) rebuilt (including hones cylinder walls and new pistons, cams, etc.), and now I'm wondering if I should start the new engine on synthetic oil right away, or wait per my usual practice.
Any thoughts?

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  #21  
Old 01-30-2001, 05:38 PM
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hmm I havent seen anyone mention one thing.

I thought that oil was made to be mixable with various brands/types.

I'm not saying that means all types, but I would assume that there has to be a certain standard to make all engine oils mixable. Now some might mix better than others, but generally I thought that all oil was supposed to be designed to be mixable with other brands.

So are you guys saying that synthetic oil can in no way be mixed with regular oil?

Isn't there a government mandated requirement for all oils stating they have to be mixable?

I think I remember reading something about this in another posta while back.

Larry bible Where are yout o clear this up?



Alon

Personally I'll use whatever oil is the best, whether synthetic or not.

I don't plan on switching to synthetic just yet though. i want to wait until the head has to come off and the timing cover before I start changing to the synthetics.

I have heard that synthetics can seep through areas that regular oil wouldn't, and leaks can be found because the gaskets have already been conditioned to regular oil.

Thats why I would rather wait until I have to replace some of those gaskets before switching over.

I figure if the head gasket, timing gasket, and oil pan gasket are changed, then switching to synthetic for me would be done. i just don't trust them old gaskets that much. hehe
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  #22  
Old 01-31-2001, 12:04 AM
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Do Your Homework!

Alon,

Go to http://www.mobil.com for more information on their products. Personally, their one statement that cemented the deal for me was:

"What this all means for you.

It means there's no wax or contaminants in your oil to create sludge and cause premature wear.
It means Mobil 1 pours freely in the coldest and hottest temperatures, which gives your engine a break, as well as your battery.
It means your engine can run like new for hundreds of thousands of miles."


Now, why did you say you wanted to combine Mobil 1 with other oil?

Yes, you CAN combine synthetics and dino oils, but why would anyone want to negate the superior properties of this synthetic? And why would a bright person like you be willing to operate on hearsay urban-legends, when you can go to websites like Mobil's, and http://www.redline.com to get the facts about synthetics?

Besides, the legends would only vaugely apply to older cars with 100K+ miles on the clock...

[Edited by longston on 01-30-2001 at 11:10 PM]
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  #23  
Old 01-31-2001, 05:13 AM
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hehe I didn't say I would combine it, but since it is true you can mix oils, thats all I wanted to make sure of, as it might have related to this post topic.

I agree that using only one kind of oil is key, but you can be on the road and need oil and be unable to get the mobil 1, and might have to settle for that other stuff. The mixability would have to be there, and some lubrication is better than none right?



Now to find a good supplier of mobil 1 for good price.

I have changed my oil once since getting my car, have Castrol in there now, and will be doing my next oil change with castrol again. My local pepboys never has mobil 1 in any flavor, maybe like one or two bottles.

I wouldn't say castrol is the best oil, because I would rather use mobil 1 but lack of availability when I had time to go to the store caused me to settle for the castrol.

Anyone know a place for mobil 1 in Los Angeles? Would costco have it? Should I find a walmart? or someother places?

in anycase, Thanks for confirming the mixability thing, just makes me feel better knowing that IF I had to to Mix brands, and thats an IF, It would not be disasterous. hehe

Alon
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  #24  
Old 01-31-2001, 01:17 PM
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Keep A Couple In The Trunk...

You should be able to get Mobil 1 at Pep Boys! My local one has it in all the delicious viscosities you should desire.

You can go to: http://www.pepboys.com for a listing of a store near you. You can also buy it at Kragen/Checker/Chief, Target, Walmart, Kmart, and of course, any Mobil service station.

It really isn't all that mysterious or exotic anymore.

As to the "break-in" question, the service manager at my local dealer says that although they used to have a 1000 mile initial "break-in" period after which they would do a valve adjustment and oil 1st change, they have no information from the factory about the new engines being specially prepared, or "broken in" at all. they come with Mobil 1 in the crankcase, and do not get their first scheduled oil change for 10,000 miles. He added that they recently got a service bulletin directing them to only use Mobil 1 on all cars that come in for service from now on...
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