As you can see there were a number of items posted that could cause the stalling episodes, and at least one of them was the solution. For my 300E, it was the OVP.

Glad you got the problem solved.

Steve,
I have a '85 500SEC. It had/has a stalling problem also.
What I have found out is: The fuel pump wasn't getting any voltage. That is the fuel pump relay.
I popped the cover off the relay and you could visibly see the contacts on the solenoid close.
At last, out of frustration, I was handling the relay and I noticed that the support for the solenoid was loose from the circuit board!! There are two solenoids in there. The small one is the over-voltage. The large one is the fuel pump.
I took my soldering iron, and re-soldered the back of the support. Apparently, the support is the ground. It was "cold-soldered" at the factory. It also has a bit of corrosion on it. That is because, as the current flows through it, it developes disimilar metal corrosion.
Anyway, just re-solder it and plug her in.
I had bought a used one, in the beginning, and this one had the exact same problem. I fixed both and carry both. Good luck, John F. '81 240D; '85 500SEC.

I had the same problems with my car... to the point that I didn't even want to use it anymore. It sat in my garage for two months before I came back to this forum and got a reply from MBDOC (thanks, again!). Anyway... here's my story.

Car started stalling intermittently. The red LED in the battery compartment (next to the diagnostic terminal) would light up. It could be reset by removing the battery terminal, but the problem persistently came back... sometimes after 10 minutes! So, the following things were done:
1) cleaned filter... suspected bad O2 sensor. No good.
2) Replaced O2 sensor. Still no good.
3) Brought car to reputable shop, wherein they began to tear into the engine. Car used to be my brother's, and he did ZERO maintenance on it. They replaced the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, wires, and then.... changed one of the fuel pumps (mine had two). Dude said, "Car's all good." I took the car out and as soon as I got on the freeway.... put-put-put.

5) Garaged the car and cleaned all the electrical contact... still wouldn't run... and now I am livid. The car isn't even idling.
6) Changed the famous OVP. That didn't do it. The car sat in the garage for two months.
7) Went back to the forum and re-aired my problems. MBDOC said... "crank angle sensor."
8) Took the car to the shop and repeated what MBDOC said. They called me back later and said that was it, including a leaky Fuel pressure regulator (I knew I smelled gasoline).

Problem solved....

I had a rough idle/stalling problem with my 88 300TE (actually bought it for my mother) -- after a long overdue tuneup (plugs, wires, cap, rotor) it was better, but not fixed.

Having grown up in the age of carburetors, I started looking for what (to me) was obvious -- vacuum leaks.

Evey piece of rubber hose in the engine compartment was shot -- some the typical MB "soft and shedding" and others rock hard and leaking. The worst ones were the connection for the vaccuum modulator and the one for the MAP sensor on the firewall. Replacing all the rubber ends on the hard vaccuum lines helpled, but didn't cure the idle vibration, nor the occasional stalling. Did fix the hard shift problem.

I then looked at the idle valve, and found the two large hoses to be so hard that they were actually loose on the fittings. Replaced them (inner one is a big pain!) and finally cured the problem.

Still have an occasional stall, but I think that is the idle valve itself -- I didn't clean it. Usually happens if one stops from speed rather abruptly.

It's worth the few minutes to check these hoses -- they are accessable with the air cleaner housing removed (and check the mounts while you are in there, two of mine were separated!) -- if the hoses aren't pliable, replace them. You will probably need to adjust the idle mixture afterwards.

The reason the OVP and bad battery contacts can cause idle problems and stall is that the mixture control system is powered off the same circuit, and goes off-line if the voltage drops too low or too high, causing an over-lean condition.

Peter