Evaporator leaking but AC still cold! What can I do?!!!
 

98 CLK 320. I replaced my compressor about a year ago after it failed. Before doing so, I filled my car with some UV dye. All has been well since the repair and the AC is still just as cold as it was when the repair was first completed. The problem is, I've noticed some dye in my condensation water as of lately. I checked my low side pressure and all was well. So I figure I have a slow leak somewhere. The question is.....

WHAT CAN I DO ABOUT THIS BEFORE IT GETS WORSE????!!!!



Many thanks!

There are several sealer kits on the market (a couple hundred bucks) you can try -- they are some sort of resin compound that polymerizes in the presence of oxygen and will seal the cracks.

Main problem is that the copper lines are crimped onto an aluminum core, and it's gonna get worse eventually due to metal fatigue as a result of dissimilar expansion contraction. Definitely get an all aluminum evaporator if you have to replace it.

Peter

Do you know the name of the actual product?
 

and is it the same stuff as that "stop leak" stuff that they put in refrigerant cans? If so, I've heard some nightmare stories about them, are you sure it is ok? Thanks again!

I wouldn't use stop leak in an A/C system if you paid me. Just think about what coagulated material could do to the expansion valve or the narrow passages of the condenser!

Just my $.02...

Thats what I figured......
 

So is there anything I can do? Or do I just have to sit here and watch it fail?

If you establish 100% that it is in fact your evaporator, the evaporator will simply have to be replaced with a new one. As others may have suggested, be sure to replace with an all-aluminum evap. Do a search to see how involved it is for your model - I know on my 300E it is a 20 hour job and costs about $3,000 if you have it done, but only a fraction of that if you DIY.

You have 3 choices:

a. Watch it fail, as you have been doing
b. Fix it yourself. I get a sense that isn't going to happen.
c. Find a competent MB tech and have him fix it.

I guess I should clarify....
 

What can I do besides replace the evaporator?

This thread is turning into Logic 101.

You say you put dye into the system and you now see it in the evap. drain water. That means your evap. is leaking.

You then ask what can you replace beside the evap.?????

The answer is nothing. Your evap. appears to be leaking , so you need to replace it. It's that simple.

I would however, get a 2nd opinion before embarking on a costly repair such as an evap. replacement.

......

I have watched every thread on dash removal... average estimate 12 hours.

I figure another three for evaporator... plus two hours to do 4 or 5 pods.

When it happens to me, I will do it myself.

What put me over the top is the pictorial some guy put out on dash removal. Just seems very tedious. But at a hundred dollars an hour you would save 2k.

Parts and re-charge shouldn't cost much more than 6-700.

I know its been said but


DO NOT EVER, EVER USE A LEAK SEALER.....

You will never be able to repair the system when it brakes again.

Do a proper repair job...find the leak and replace whatever is leaking.

And do a proper purge and recharge.