key won;'t turn in 1989 300E
 

This problem started like 2 weeks ago, I notice when I put the key in the igintion it won't turn, after 3-5 tries it finally went and the car started. BUT Now it won;t turn at all, I could turn with all my might and nothing, car is stuck in front of my house without any way to start it. I notice the notches on the tumbler aren't lined up and it looks like it past postion one on the ignition switch. ( towards the left) How do I go about repairing this problem and how big of a deal is it? If anyone could help it would be great. I could get the car out of gear, so the car does roll and the steering wheel is not locked, just in case that helps. im afraid if I move the steering wheel too much it will lock up. any help would be great Thanks

Check to make sure your coulumn lock is not binding...
 

When you try this again, pull on the steering wheel in a turning motion, to see if this frees up the key. The MB column and many others employ a combination ign switch and column lock. If you have pressure on the steering wheel when it is locked, it will apply that pressure right onto the key assembly and make it difficult or impossible to turn the key.

If on the other hand wiggling the wheel in either direction does not help free upo the key, then you'l likely have to change out the cylinder. If you have your orginal keys from MB, The master kets, they can have the new cylinder's tumbles set the same way as with the old unit, use the same key.

Good luck

Try a little vibration
 

I just went through a session with my ignition. Different problem, but in no way fun. That lock and cylinder is not very accessable, even with the lower panel, under the dash removed. But I have read from previous post that high speed vibs from something like an electric tooth brush power unit, possibly even an electric shaver is at times enough to loosen the lock. And as the previous writer noted, make sure that you relieve all the pressure you can. My thinking is that a quick short blast of WD-40 might also be helpful. To vib it without removing the bottom dash panel I would suggest it up against the ignition. Give it some vibes and a gentle turn. Remember - force will only get you more problems. Check "Diesel Giant" postings for excellant ways and means of removing ignition which will pprobably have to be done sooner or later.

Thank for all the idea, the more the better, I will try everything tomorrow and I will post my outcome. thanks again more suggestion welcomed

whatever you do... DON'T FORCE IT!!!!! I am a certified locksmith, and forcing it is not the best way to go, if you do, you'll break the key off, thus incurring a broken key extraction. try some wd40, but what probably happened is either your key or wafers have worn down, or the lock is gummed up with old grease, as was the case with my sd's doorlocks. i had to remove the lock and "de gum" it.

what is a "wafer"?

in your house door lock there are "pins" shaped like this []
...........................................................................v
and they are round, in your car (many cars, incl. my mercedes, so probably more mbs too)
there are "wafers" that are [] square and very flat, they look like the 2 small items in the top of this picture http://www.padandwheels.com/mr2/tails/removewafer.jpg
those are probably ford wafers, the mb ones are a little diffrent, some of the newer ones are split in two (to resist picking) but in my doorlock they are not split, but are diffrent in that there is a little nub on the inside of the hole in the center of the wafer so it looks like this
[--]
[...]
[-..] < nub here
[--]
that nub is so that the key can contact the wafer in the right spot because many of our mb keys are high-security (look at a mb key and if you notice the cuts are on the side of the key, not on the top, so it requires a special key machine to duplicate)

EDIT: ignore periods in ascii art.

Happens all the time.

You need a new switch.

Cylinder pops right out with correct special tool.

Must order switch from dealer and prove your ownership (same as getting replacement key)

You are on borrowed time. Run to the dealer as fast as you can and order a new tumbler. When it fails for good, and it will, you are looking at an $800+ repair job.

I had that problem about three years ago, during which time the MB tech said, "the 89's are starting to go" referring to the tumblers. Almost $1,000 and five days later, it was fixed. Had I acted sooner, it would have been a DIY job for about $100.

What if I'm not a DIY
 

I'm nearly 100 miles from the nearest MB dealer. How do I go about getting my indy to do this for me?

They probably can't. MB requires the owner to show up with proof of ownership, to order a new key or tumbler. Try calling the dealer and see what they say. Perhaps you can work something out, i.e. you fax them a copy of the title and your driver's license.

If the tumbler is not sticking, it might also be prudent to remove it now, and use a screwdriver or other tool to start the car. When it fails, it will do so without warning; a few close calls, then a few days later it locks up for good. Please do what you can to fix it while it is still easy and cheap to do so.

Ask him.

IIRC mine handled all the paperwork for me. If yours pleads ignorance he isn't well versed in Mercedes.

The part CAN be shipped.

A bad problem in mercedes. I have 3 and all 3 have had to have the ignition switch replaced. My 190e 3 weeks ago. I usually do alot of the work myself but that one I wont touch. Call AAA and tell them to send a tow dolly truck and surely there is a former Mb dealership mechanic around. new switches only come with one key so you better ask them to cut you a coupke extras. About 350.00. The part is about 130.00 and 2-3 hour labor.

1983- 300DT-439,000 miles
1991- 300E- 371,000 miles
1991- 190E- 172,000 miles

But, the new switch will use same keys you're presently using.

Did you have the switch replaced or just the tumbler?

The tumbler-only is a 15 minute procedure... assuming you can get the key to the #1 position.

Jeff Pierce

I put this off and yesterday I couldn't get the key to turn in the ignition when I was leaving a restaurant. Finally got it to start and drove straight to my indie. He used a cleaner spray and we got some gunk out but then it stuck again.

We called the closest MB dealership (120+ miles away in Riverside) and they won't ship a new ignition switch assembly. I have to personally go in with my current registration and CDL to order it to fit my key. And, they won't ship it to my indie once it comes in--I have to personally pick it up. They are telling me it's the law.

Why would I be ordering an ignition to fit my key if I were a thief and had a KEY? I don't get it.

To be safe, I left the car parked at my indie's place and will bring him the new part.

If anyone else is having this problem, don't delay. I should have done this when I originally read this thread.

While I'm at it I am going to have them order me the trunk lock assembly. It is sticking now too.

Don't know if it is the law, but it is definitely policy. I had to do the same when it happened to my previous car. Dealer would not let repair shop order or receive the tumbler.

It's for your protection. An unscrupulous employee at the indie could easily order a new key, sell it to a friend, and the friend could drive off in the car.

But I am not ordering a new key. I am ordering the new tumbler/ignition assembly and it will work with my key. I could understand if I was ordering a key.

Obviously if I already have a key I could steal a car with it--why would I need to order a tumbler? That's the part I don't understand.

If you could live with two different keys (one for the doors and one for the ignition), then you can buy a new tumbler from Ebay for real cheap. The tumbler will come with two keys.

This happened to my 91 300E and that was what I did. Make sure you do it when you can still turn the tumbler. When you cannot, it is a big job.

We got the key out and I left it at my indie. The MB parts guy said the new tumbler will work with my key and they order it with the VIN number.

I thought about the ebay route but didn't want different key for the doors and trunk and the trunk lock needs to be replaced too so I'm going to order that at the same time. I have to turn the key to the left and pull out on the trunk button, then back to center in order for the button to push and open the trunk. Have had it cleaned but still having problems so as long as I have to replace the ignition I'll have that replaced as well.

My indie can install both.

I'm not putting the key in the ignition again until they replace it.

Can they check the tumbler with my key when I pick it up? I don't think it's been re-keyed and the parts guy said if it had they would order the new key ID as it would be in their system by VIN. I just want to make sure before I get it back that it will work.

Liquid spray graphite (graphite suspended) really works well for short-term lock problems. I say short-term because the graphite won't last. The proper Mercedes type door lock lube is much more long-lasting. The liquid spray graphite just gets into and all over everything. The can comes with the typical little red snorkle to insert into the lock's key opening.

The liquid spray graphite is typically found in hardware stores in small spray cans where lock stuff is sold.

Several squirts, letting it sit has worked for me with several key/lock/tumbler nightmares.

The "key" (sorry couldn't resist) is to get the little pins in the lockset to move. The vibration suggestion is known to help. Gentle rocking of the wheel but most especially gradually, gently and persistently moving the key is your best bet.

The alternative is lowering the under dash and drilling the lockmount etc. You don't want to know.

BTW, the fresh key use is something I do. I have little lock problems because with each car I buy, I replace the key with a new one and use the old one as an emergency backup.

Haasman

This is a very common problem with older Benzes. I've replaced tumblers in my (former) 1984 300SD and 1991 420SEL.

I've also changed it in my (current) 1989 300TE and 1991 300CE.

The 300CE turned out to be a big surprise.

My mechanic (Enrique of Mr. MB Motors) ordered a new ignition tumbler. When he installed the new tumbler, it turned out that the new key wouldn't work on the door/trunk/glove compartment locks.

It appears that at some point during its lifetime, the 300CE was broken into (I found small pieces of borken glass while looking under the searts) and the PO replaced ALL the locks in the car. So the lock and the keys that it had when I bought it did not match the VIN.

So Enrique took out all the locks, we took them to a locksmith and he keyed them to match the correct VIN-linked key.

Cost of rekeying the locks: $100.00

Cost of R&R the locks: $100.00

Piece of mind knowing that all the locks now match and that I have a new ignition tumbler that should last me a few years: PRICELESS!

sticking ignition, 96 E320
 

Hey guys Have anyone of you heard of adjusting the ignition switch interlock cable to free up that sticking key problem? I've been having the sticking ignition recently, and checked through a few different forums and about adjusting that ignition switch interlock cable, but I'm not sure where the adjustment is. Is it from inside the car or underneath at the side of the tranny I tried lifting the center console with the window switches but could not see anything that looks like an adjustment I did see the cable but not where it ended somewhere below the gear shifter assembly. However in the process of trouble shooting I did remove the panel below the steering wheel/column the one above the gas and brake pedals, to get to the ignition, and found where the ignition switch interlock ended on the ignition unit assembly it had the silver turning end to it, I twisted it off while the key was in at the first turn position (the one after inserting the key pass the stuck ignition position) and the key turned like silk but it just wont come out of the ignition, I was tempted to leave a key in the ignition and keep it concealed to eliminate the sticking problem, but the thought of someone getting into the car and having easy access to starting and driving off with it, slapped sense back into me. But the point is that it turned flawlessly like silk with the ignition switch interlock cable detached, which seems to tell me that the tumbler is working fine so it must be something with that cable that's causing the problem. Any ideas and does anyone know where the adjustment for that cable is and how to adjust it? :confused:

sticking ignition, 96 E320
 

More news I finally dared to venture deeper into trying to adjust the ignition shift interlock, back into the center console removing it completely this time then removing the cold/heat air duct to get at the end of those two cables on the right of the gear lever covered with a plastic cover which you would just pry off with a flat blade screwdriver, but be carefull use the flat part of the scr driver to twist and seperate exactly at the studs where the plastic is attached to, two of them. One cable is for the ignition lock release and the other for the break pedal release, tried a few adjustments from the two small bolts that coincidently I could see without moving all the other stuff but it was worth it to actualy see what was happening when I made adjustments to the cables. The're were both hook latches on opposite sides of the gear shifter mechanism under where you just took the black plastic part off from. Well needless to say nothing with MB couls be moderatly easy and all the above procedure did not resolve the sticking ignition but I now know have more knowledge of how some of the parts move and work.so I'm back to square one. Oh I found the gear shift adjustment underneath the car just a little behind the tranny support, its a little hidden though, you would have to put the car in 3rd 2nd or L to get a good look at it or make any adjustments short of dropping the tranny and exhaust, yeah right! Anyway I didn't think I sohuld add to my problems by trying to make an adjustment there when my tranny worked fine, Don't wanna ever have tranny problems. So my next step is to replace the ignition tumbler I really tried everything I could before I got to this step, So does anyone know how to remove the tumbler from the 96 E320 I can get the ignition to turn over after a minute or two so I can get the key to the first or seconrd position if needed. HELP

Ignition lock issues are no joke. Right now, your car is warning you that you are on borrowed time. When the lock suddenly and abruptly fails (note I said "when" and not "if") it will be a very expensive, inconvenient repair.

If you can still turn the key, remove the tumbler and run to the dealer for a replacement. It takes only 24-48 hours to get it. If you need to start your car with a screwdriver while waiting for a replacement, so be it.

In the short interval between your first and second posts, things have gone from bad to worse. As someone who has experienced "ignition lockout" on my previous car, I urge you to replace the tumbler ASAP.

Amen, to that
 

The day I bought my Mercedes the ignition locked up... sigh... PO's said just wiggle it a little... even came out and wiggled it for me.. no avail...

Key turned fine for several test drives I took in it... Wrote the check... AS IS on the bill of sale..

Guessing I coulda been a prick and stopped payment, but it was too nice a ride... 600 bucks later.. new lock cylinder and ignition switch.. all is good with the world...

Now all I have to do is fix all the niggling little problems associated with a 22yr old car...

The moral of the story is, If you have to jiggle your key, get a new cylinder... It's gonna bite you in the tuchus sooner or later...

Do not - read - DO NOT - wait any longer.

Particularly on the W124 if that SOB locks up on you, then you will be :bigcry::bigcry:

I reiterate the advice to get to a dealer ASAP and get that new tumbler. If yours freezes up you will be :mad: and :eek::eek::eek: about the level of effort and/or expense to free it up. Don't delay.