1973 450sl, working on the drivers side front, jack under lower control arm. I grab the tire at 6:00 and push and 12:00 I pull. I get a very slight movement, I beleive this tells me the bearing should be fine. Now at 3:00 and 9:00 I do the same thing, now I get atleast twice the movement. What is this telling me? I realize I need a helper so I can look for linkage movement. Idler arm, tie rods,ball joints, drag link, pitman arm, am I missing anything?

By the way the reason I am checkings,is while driving the car it has excessive drift and play in the steering wheel. Thanks

Serach this forum and over at sl107.com - lots of info.

I am gradually getting mine closer to where it should be - rear sub frame mounts, adjusted steering box but most improvement gained with the idler arm bushing replacement last week.

I can't address the specific 3 oclock/9 oclock movement but with as many moving & rubber parts under there, something is obviously worn out and it is probably rubber.

Good luck and keep us posted

Kevin

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"Dangerous with a wrench...and not smart enough to know it"

Stable (in order of acqusition):
'84 500SL, 280SEL (Euros)
'77 280SE. '90 560SEL
'79 450SEL 6.9,
'95 C280 (totalled by daughter 8/07)
'81 280SL (rescued) '88 300CE
'86 560SEC '95 C36
'01 CL55

DD's: '04 S500 4Matic (SWMBO)
'04 F150 Crew

you will get more at 3 and 9...thats steering slop....you need to be looking at the tie rod ends adn idler arm for movement that shouldn't be there...and do so at the points before you move the pitman arm....

You also need to put a crowbar ander the tire and lift with hand on top of tire.

feeling for a thump or knock....there should be none....or else you nave bad ball joints.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Best way to test steering linkage quickly, but you need assistance. Drive front wheels up on blocks so weight is on them but you have room to slide underneath. For safety, set jackstands where they will catch the car if something shifts. Remove any under-panel blocking your full view of steering linkage. Have an assistant slowly turn steering wheel, engine off, just until some resistance felt in each direction, repeat continuously. Front wheels should barely move. Slide underneath and carefully examine each linkage pivot to see if there is movement other than what should be. This will analyse the 'slop' in the linkage, but not give useful info about steering gearbox adjustment.

Basically, as the pitman arm moves, that motion should be linearly translated to each steering knuckle. Any movement in any other direction, or LACK of movement in the intended direction, indicates a worn component.

Steve

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'91 MB 190E 2.3
'08 RAV4 Ltd 3.5
'83 Lazy Daze m'home 5.7

is prob needing adjustment too. they hardly ever wear out.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.