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#1
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Worn Rotors?
A relative and i set about changing his brakes today. And upon seeing his rotors i say he needs new ones, he says he won't buy unless the current ones are unsafe. I'm not sure what the qualifications for a rotors are so i decided to take pictures and ask.
Are these rotors unsafe? |
#2
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Measure the wear surface thickness...Mercedes gives a minimum thickness for their rotors.
.As a matter of interest .........http://www.aa1car.com/library/procut3b.htm
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[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ] "A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money." Last edited by dkveuro; 11-20-2005 at 11:54 PM. |
#3
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Don't condemn the rotor based solely on the fact that there is a lip on it.
As stated above, measure it to see if it is below min thickess. Generally the specifications allow the rotors to wear about 3 mm or so from new to worn before they need to be tossed. If they are close to or below min thickess, replace them. If they are thick enough to survive another set of pads before wearing down too far, then keep them.
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Ali Al-Chalabi 2001 CLK55 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2002 Harley-Davidson Fatboy Merlin Extralight w/ Campy Record |
#4
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I would be much more concerned about the evident rusted-out condition of the ventilation core of the rotors than actual surface condition. This will seriously impact cooling ability and probably balance more than will a worn surface. Absolutely, new rotors are necessary here.
Steve
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'91 MB 190E 2.3 '08 RAV4 Ltd 3.5 '83 Lazy Daze m'home 5.7 |
#5
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I'd replace those rotors due to the heavy rust. Thickness is one thing, but rust is another. I have had 2 rotors crack in the circumference around the hub, and in both cases my wife was driving the car. Stepped on brake = loud crack noise, caliper held rotor but rotor separated from hub, so car kept going. Definitely not safe.
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08 W251 R350 97 W210 E320 91 W124 300E 86 W126 560SEL 85 W126 380SE Silver 85 W126 380SE Cranberry 79 W123 250 78 W123 280E 75 W114 280 |
#6
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If that were my car I'd pad slap it.
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Auto Zentral Ltd. |
#7
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One other thing to consider - I worked on a coworker's brakes a few weeks back, 1997 e320. The rotors were worn evenly, not warped, etc. and looked great with no grinding, but had a deep lip like yours. The lip started cutting into the brake pad sensor. He needed new pads anyway, so we put them in, but his warning light was triggered way too early due to the lip cutting into and grounding the sensor. Also, the lip was contacting the pad backing and causing a grinding noise even though the pad had a bit of lining left. I say replace 'em - they don't cost much at FastLane.
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08 W251 R350 97 W210 E320 91 W124 300E 86 W126 560SEL 85 W126 380SE Silver 85 W126 380SE Cranberry 79 W123 250 78 W123 280E 75 W114 280 |
#8
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The min allowable thickness of a pad is 2mm. On the W210, the rotors are 28 mm new, and I think the min allowable thickess is somewhere around 25mm. This means that each side can have about 1.5mm of material worn away before the rotor reaches min thickness. Thus, a pad worn to the max allowable thickess on a rotor worn to the max allowable thickess would still allow the backing plate to clear the lip of the rotor by .5mm. If the backing plate was contacting the lip of the rotor, I bet they were well beyond min thickess if you were to measure them.
If you use the stock pads and rotors on the W210, the rotors will wear to min thickess with 2 sets of pads.
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Ali Al-Chalabi 2001 CLK55 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2002 Harley-Davidson Fatboy Merlin Extralight w/ Campy Record |
#9
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while the two sets of pads
may be a good rule of thumb i bet it is not always true.
the rust in the vents would not bother me in the least. that is completely normal on un coated rotors. tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#10
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Quote:
Steve
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'91 MB 190E 2.3 '08 RAV4 Ltd 3.5 '83 Lazy Daze m'home 5.7 |
#11
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yeah those
ends look worse than i am used to (on second look) but i have never heard of one failing from rust.
tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#12
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Well i got my ruler out and measured from LIP to LIP and it was STILL at minimum (20mm), and i'd say that lip adds ~4mm. Where we've been working to remove the calipers and caliper mount and a pile of rust has collected and it falls out as you spin the rotors. I luckily convinced the tightwallet to order anew though, thanks for the input gentlemen!
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#13
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Age is just as bad as mileage. Judging by the rust and the fact that they only cost about $40 each I'd replace them. I prefer not cheaping out on important things like brakes.
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1999 SL500 2016 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#14
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Our E320 got new rotors (OEM Mercedes) at around 75k miles. However, our piece of junk Ford Explorer (96) just barely got its FIRST set of new rotors at 135k miles, vents were rusted just like in the picture. Brakes were still relatively smooth!
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________________________ 2002 Mercedes-Benz E320 4Matic 1995 Mercedes-Benz E320 Wagon 2005 Land Rover LR3 V8 SE 1999 Audi A8 4.2L quattro |
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