I have searched for this topic on both Diesel Discussion and this forum. I need the exact how to of replacing a block heater. After driving it for two months only when it gets warm enough (31+), I am tired of it. I want to fix it.

I have no spark when at the plug when plugging the block heater in and I can't start the car in the morning after it has been plugged in all night.

Has anyone ever done this job without a lift? What were the challenges? Any recommendations?

I have found the block heater, but it seems difficult to get to. Do I need to remove the air filter or exhaust manifold to get to it? I read about one guy, who recommended taking it to a shop, and he said he couldn't do it with a 4' cheater bar. How do you get something that long in there?

I know that I have an actual block heater, not just a hose heater.

Thanks
Hard Starting in Michigan

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81 300D 250K (sold)
79 240D 200k
83 Volvo Station Wagon (282k)

What's the condition of the chord? Maybe the wires have become brittle and there is a short somewhere.

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2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel - 4x4, auto, 3.54 gears, long bed
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'92 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel - sold
'83 300D Turbodiesel - 4 speed manual/2.88 diff - sold
'87 300D Turbodiesel - sold
'82 300D Turbodiesel - sold

The cord seems to be intact. I have thoroghly checked that. It is not brittle. It is well coated with engine grease and dirty, but does not seem brittle in any way. Good suggestion. I wish it were my problem.

Josh

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81 300D 250K (sold)
79 240D 200k
83 Volvo Station Wagon (282k)

Josh I have Installed A block heater in My 80-300td.It was a
*****.If I remember the block heater is brass.That should make it much easier to remove.I removed the manifold and layed it back.I soaked it with penatrating fluid for a few days.I had to remove the manifold so I could get a staight shot,at it.A long peice of pipe on the end of the wrench.And it broke free.Brass is soft make sure you have a high quality wrench.To use a socket you will have t0 cut the lead off at the element.This is really not as bad as it sounds Good luck.

get an ohm meter...costs 10$ at radio shack.
remove the wires AT the block heater (on the engine block).
if you have continuity at the two terminals of the block heater then it is fine.......the wire is defective ....it is available anywhere....just change it and you will be home free.

co.aukulah is right on the money. I would add however, that you should simply put the ohmmeter across the plug first to see if you have continuity. If you don't then check between each terminal to both of the plug prongs individually. If both sections of the cord have continuity, then just measure at the terminals.

It is probably more likely that the cord itself is bad.

Good luck,

Thanks so much. I'll start with the ohm meter at the element, as per co.aulakh, and if that isn't it, then I will follow Michael's advice. I do so hate dissasembling this stuff in cold Michigan weather. I'll update the forum when I get through.

In the meanttime, if there is any more advice or encouragement, send it my way, please.

Josh

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81 300D 250K (sold)
79 240D 200k
83 Volvo Station Wagon (282k)

It crossed my mind after the last posting.Are you sure your extension cord is good.I have goofed up that way in the past.Michael