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  #1  
Old 02-15-2001, 09:21 AM
hollander_marc
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I have a 280SL question (engine #130-983-12-003813). I am trying to re-start the car after 7-year dry storage. The fuel was flushed and treated prior to storing. Put new fuel in, the pump is getting the fuel to the injection pump, the fuel is getting to the cold start valve, yet no fuel is coming out of the 6 - 1/4" lines feeding the cylinders. Plenty of fuel exits the injection pump to return to the tank. Looking at the manual, it says that I am to push the control rack rod. I am to use an m5 bolt (am I correct that this is a 5mm?). Question is that the schematic shows the rod, but I cannot figure out what to do.

I believe that the injection valves (could be called something else) may be stuck in the up position thus not allowing fuel to go to the lines.

Second question: should I add oil into the injection pump if this is a 280? Where and how much in american measure?

thanks....marc

[Edited by hollander_marc on 02-15-2001 at 08:29 AM]
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  #2  
Old 02-15-2001, 12:55 PM
Jim Villers's Avatar
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Marc ... Try this question on the Vintage board. I would try a bunch of things before I would play with the injection pump. Very little fuel goes to the injectors for each cycle so it maybe working but it may not be apparent. First, turn the engine without the plugs to insure oil pressure. Replace the plugs and fire the engine with primming gas or starting fluid. Only after it cranks and runs on starting fluid would I begin looking at the pump. First pump test would be to disconnect the pump linkage, hold the pump linkage in the full open position and fire the engine again with starting fluid. You should get something happen. If it still dead, begin with the injectors and work backwards.

Good luck and keep us posted.
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  #3  
Old 02-15-2001, 01:15 PM
hollander_marc
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Thanks for the reply. I have been trying to start her with the starting fluid up the intake side but with no luck. I even went as far as removing the cold start valve and shooting fluid there. I have been "tapping" the cold start valve to try and fool it into pushing fuel. None of this has worked.

When I take the 1/4" steel line from the fuel injection pump, say forward most position and crank it, would I not expect to see some fuel escaping?

thanks....marc
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  #4  
Old 02-15-2001, 01:25 PM
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Back to basics ... Make it fire first, then worry about the little tubes, cold start etc. Very hard to say what works or not if it doesn't fire. If it is not firing when primed, check all of the electrical. Do the plugs spark? Are you sure it if firing number 1 cylinder at the top of the compression stroke? What has been changed or fixed since that engine last ran? The only thing that sounds for sure is that the fuel pump works. Did you drain the old fuel out of the tank? Try starting fluid, available at all auto parts stores in a spray can (It will fire with almost no compression and very little spark).
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190SL, 230SL 5-speed, 95 E320 Wagon, 01 E320 Wagon, MGB, Boxster 'S', 190SL "Barn Find"
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Old 02-15-2001, 01:38 PM
hollander_marc
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Excellent response. Sorry, but I am about as basic on this stuff as you can get!

I have gone through and sorted the ignition electrics. Spark is making it across the plug. I took the engine to TDC on the compression stroke for #1 and then ensured that the firing order followed. Engine was rebuilt 7-years back, dried and stored. New fuel in the tank at about the 1/4 capacity.

Just to be certain, where would you spray the fluid? I have tried several locations with no luck.

marc
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  #6  
Old 02-15-2001, 01:56 PM
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Prime it through the maniford. Remove the duct from the air cleaner, manually open the throttle and spray it in past the open throttle plate. Doing this, it should purely be an electrical/spark problem. It should pop, backfire or something. If still nothing, try swapping plug wires with the wires directly accross the distributor (changes ignition timing one revolution). You should get it to do smoething.

By the way, where are you located. I am in Virginia Beach VA.
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Old 02-15-2001, 02:03 PM
hollander_marc
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I am in Olney, MD about 20 minutes north west of DC.

I have been priming it exactly as you suggest with no luck.

Are you saying that I just take the #1 wire and move it three positions? Won't this put me 180 degrees out?


we can take this off line: marc.hollander@ns.doe.gov

thanks
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  #8  
Old 02-15-2001, 02:20 PM
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Exactly ... If it does nothing and has spark, the timming is most likely 180 degrees off. At worst, it will still do nothing.

Are you anywhere near Summit Point race track. I am taking my 230SL to the GWS Performance Driving School there on March 24-25.
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  #9  
Old 02-20-2001, 01:25 PM
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Marc ... Any luck? Keep us posted

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  #10  
Old 02-20-2001, 01:34 PM
hollander_marc
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I took the front face plate off of the injection pump and sprayed the heck out of it with WD-40 (I know, I should have used carb/choke cleaner) but I was impatient and did not want to go to the store. I managed to find and get the control rack rod unfrozen and manipulated it for about 20-minutes and it too now move freely.

I am now getting some dribbling of fuel from the injection pump to the connections to the spider (fuel line hook-up).

I rotated the distributor 180 degrees and that did nothing so I will remain at the original point that I believe is correct.

I have to return to the cold start valve and make certain that fuel is crossing there with the hopes to get the thing to burp and perhaps release the fuel pistons that MAY be stuck. I have accomplished many things that I did not understand, but am not prepared to tackle the ball things and the Teflon rings.

regards/suggestions?

marc
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  #11  
Old 02-20-2001, 01:44 PM
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I still have not heard that you have gotten the engine to fire; back-fire or do anything with a prime or starting fluid. This leads to an initial electrical/ignition problem that needes to be traced down first. If you do much messing with the pump, it will probably need to be rebuilt by a speciality shop with the special tools and bench to set it up correctly.
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  #12  
Old 02-20-2001, 03:56 PM
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Marc,

Since the car was in dry storage for some time, I'd be willing to bet that the delivery rack in the injection pump is stuck. The way to check it is to remove the 10mm cap screw at the front of the pump, thread in a long, thin bolt and try to move the rack back and forth by hand. If you can't, it's frozen. This will require a rebuild, which is around $850. I had to have the pump off of my 14,000 mile 250SE rebuilt last summer due to the same problem. I sent it to Pacific Fuel Injection in California and they did a wonderful job and were very timely in the rebuild. Good luck!
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  #13  
Old 02-20-2001, 04:04 PM
hollander_marc
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Thanks for the response. I "worked" the rack rod over the weekend and it moves freely, even though I have no idea what it does.

cheers
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  #14  
Old 02-20-2001, 11:28 PM
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Aaron -

I have helped Marc along in this process. My question - hat did you do to get the car running when you put your rebuilt pump back in the car?

Cold start valve, starting fluid, other trick? I don't see how the pump can move enough fuel at cranking speed to purge the air in the lines and get the engine started without some help.


Thanks.

Chuck
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  #15  
Old 02-21-2001, 12:15 PM
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To test the cold start valve, remove the wire and two screws holding the coil and stem onto the valve housing. Test the solenoid with a 12V source (the battery will work). The solenoid should draw in when energized. You can also test for flow by energizing the supply pump with the key. Fuel should flow into the valve housing. BE CAREFUL. Don't use incandescent lighting. Provided all this checks out, you likely have an injection pump problem. If the rack was frozen, there may be frozen parts in the governor section also (at the back of the pump). Also, I believe some later pumps had a fuel cutoff solenoid at the back of the pump which may be energized (erroneously). The cold start thermostat on the pump may also be frozen. I would be careful tampering with the pump if you do not understand it. A pump that pumps too much fuel into the cylinders can wash upper cylinder lubrication down and ruin the bores. BOSCH publishes a technical pamphlet available from Robert Bentley about the PE series pumps. It discusses diesel applications only, but after reading it you will know far more than you know now. The best thing may be to send the pump out. If you damage the pump it only adds to the cost of the rebuild.
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