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Old 02-15-2001, 05:23 PM
Nick Jamal
Posts: n/a
I've been driving an Intrepid for about 2 weeks while my car's been in the shop after being rear-ended.

Now, that I have it back, I can't believe how noisy the suspension sounds, both front and rear, especially at slow, around-town speeds, over train tracks and even minor pot-holes. It really gets clunky sounding.

I don't know if I'm just noticing because I've driven a new car for a bit, or if it's possible that the accident caused suspension damage (but from a very slow speed impact?).

The car has 230km and the rear subframe bushings and shocks were replaced 2 years ago, and also rides on Eibach springs. Any thoughts, please?
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Old 02-15-2001, 06:33 PM
yal's Avatar
yal yal is offline
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: New York, Long Island
Posts: 2,705
When was the last time you had your strut mounts up front replaced. Here is a quote from

While not always apparent, as the vehicle’s mileage climbs, its strut mounts often deteriorate. Therefore, when the struts are being replaced (especially on high mileage vehicles), it’s also the perfect time to replace the strut mounts in order to help restore the vehicle’s like-new ride quality.


Strut mounts are the huge bushing on top of the struts.You can see them from the engine bay on some cars. They help suppress noise.
Also did you replace the spring pads when you replaced the springs. They help with noise too.
Also there are bushings for the links in the rear.
The fact that you have eibachs installed is probably compounding all this if they haven't been done.
Hope this helps........
Oh and your car is old

[Edited by yal on 02-15-2001 at 06:37 PM]
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Old 02-15-2001, 07:47 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Toronto, CANADA
Posts: 1,193
There are lots of bushings that can cause this problem. I had the same problem with my front end. The castor joint bushings were really worn, and infacct the castor arm joint has rusted to the point that new bushing alone wouldn't work. I had to have the castor arm removed and sandblasted/glassbeaded. Then new castor joint kit (bushings and such). It made such a difference, both in ride quality, better steering and tighter ride, also no more clunking. Have mechanic check it out. My mechanic figured out my problem so fast he didn't charge me for the 10 minutes the car was on the lift. Two weeks later when he fixed it the cost was $900. Pricey, but most of it was the labour and machine shop costs (new castor arms are like 900 bucks a piece). Anyways I am happy, he knew by looking and poking around what was wrond right away). My suggestion is to have it looked at.

Jason Priest
1999 E430
1995 E420 - retired
1986 420SEL - retired
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Old 02-16-2001, 07:55 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Sunny Florida
Posts: 199
Clunk, groan, clunk

I understand you completely! My 1989 model has clunks and bumps, and the latest solution I found was to replace the bushings in the suspension ball joint carrier, (braking reaction ball joint?). Still clunking and light knocking in the front as I drive. My next project will be the upper control arm, with the ball joint in it. I believe the whole arm has to go, looks like the ball joint cannot be pressed out and, fun!

The noises are suspension though. The engine and drivetrain are very quiet in my car, even quieter than my 1993 Olds. But no clunking from the Olds yet!

Wear earplugs, and turn up the music!
1989 560SEL (172k)
1989 325IC (122K)
2004 Suzuki Volusia LE (3500 miles)
2005 Yamaha Road Star (20 K miles)
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